| The town of San Gimignano in Italy is famous for its towers.
A high tower was a prestigious symbol in the Middle Ages and
a handful of aristocratic families got caught up in an expensive
game of one-upmanship. The same sort of thing is going on in
three little neighboring villages in Austria's Mittelburgenland.
The difference is that its happening with wine instead of towers
and its occurring in a little friendlier fashion.
The Austrian wine district Mittelburgenland is also called „Blaufränkischland".
If you belong to the ABC club (Anything But Chardonnay or
Cabernet), you may have already discovered Blaufränkisch
and know its synonym „Lemberger". What you might
not yet know is that this grape is Austria's second most
planted red variety. Although red wine production is increasing
in Austria, Mittelburgenland is still the only Austrian wine
district that produces more reds than whites. This wine district
is where you can, in my opinion, find the very best and most
distinctive wines made from this grape. Not only can you
find several young, abitious, qualiy conscious winemakers
there, Blaufränkish vines also find the soil and climate
they need to produce high quality grapes.
Here are a few tasting notes from the especially good 1997
vintage.
Weingut Wellanschitz, Blaufränkisch 1997 Barrique
Deep dark , nearly opaque, purple color. Concentrated dark berry aroma supported
by smoky wood tones that need more time. Opens more on the palate to reveal
plumy chocolate flavors with a touch of garden herbs. Long, lingering finish.
Still too young, should develop nicely with some bottle aging. Drink 2002-2009.
Tasted 04/00.
Score: 17.2/20
Rotweingut Iby, Blaufränkisch 1997
Dark red with purple reflexes. Fresh clean nose with out a hint of oak, lots
of cherries and the soft scent of meadow flowers. More cherry and plum flavors
and silky tannins make this juicy wine nice to drink now, but it should keep
well until 2005. Tasted 4/00.
Score: 15.8/20
Weingut Paul Kerschbaum, Blaufränkisch 1997"Dürrau"
Shiny dark purple. Spicy huckleberry fruit nearly springs out of the glass.
The dense fruit on the palate is followed by smoky coffee and chocolate flavors.
Very concentrated with fine grained tannins and a nice long finish. Should
make for nice drinking all the way to 2012+. Tasted 4/00
Score: 17.4/20
Rotweingut Iby, 1997 Blaufränkisch Reserve
Intense cherry and blackberry aromas with earthy under tones, full bodied and
a lingering spicy finish. This wine should be at its best around 2002. Tasted
4/00
Score: 16/20
Weingut Paul Kerschbaum 1997 Blaufränkisch Hochäcker
Elderberry jam, concentrated power and lively tannins make this a classic Austrian
Lemberger from one of the top Cru. This wine needs time and should be at
its peak 2005-2007. Tasted 4/00
Score 17/20.
Weingut Mühlgassner 1997 Blaufränkisch Privat
Bing cherries and blackberries, nicely balanced acidity and soft tannins make
this wine nice to drink now or until 2002. Tasted 4/00
Score: 15.5/20
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