If you've ever even heard of the grape Zierfandler, you're either an insider in the Austrian wine scene or you have a passion for obscure rare wines. There are thought to be less than 200 hectares of Zierfandler worldwide. 85 hectares can be found in Austria's Thermenregion around the towns of Gumpoldskirchen and Traiskirchen.

Zierfandler was once immensely popular and known as the more noble of the two grapes used for semi dry Gumpoldskirchner Koenigswein. In the past Viennese wine fans enjoyed taking the short southbound train journey to the Thermenregion to enjoy the wines they affectionately called their südbahn (south train) wines. The full-bodied heady wines of the region seemed exotic in comparison with Vienna's thin acidic heuriger wines. Alas, tastes have changed and new age consumers tend to sneer at the traditional medium dry Zierfandler that originally put Gumpoldskirchen on the world's wine map. Despite sophisticated new wines tailored to today's tastes, Zierfandler has not yet shaken its frumpy antediluvian image and remains unfashionable. Many ambitious wineries are abandoning Zierfandler and replanting vineyards with varieties that are easier to market. Zierfandler is becoming an increasingly endangered species.

The truth is that Zierfandler is a fascinating and many-sided grape capable of making complex spicy, nutty white wines with tremendous aging potential and it would certainly be a shame if it would disappear. What makes Zierfandler such an unusual grape is that as it ripens to reach its typical high sugar content, it retains its tart acidity. Ideally dry wines from Zierfandler will be somewhat high in alcohol with enough extract and acidity to balance them. Late harvest Zierfandler is also prone to the desirable noble rot and good sweet wines from this grape have enough acidity and spice to keep them from tasting all too sticky and cloying.

Winemaker Johann Stadlmann has dedicated himself to emancipating the Zierfandler from its undeserved bad image. A quarter of his vineyards in top locations are reserved for the endangered variety. With 50 year old vines and harvest yields limited to 35 hectoliters per hectare, distinct terroir and potent extract distinguish his wines. He has specialized in a new style of Zierfandler: dry with dynamic extract and compact powerful body, often with mineral notes and always with solid acidic structure. In appropriate years, Johann Stadlmann makes wonderfully opulent sweet wines from Zierfandler; Trockenbeerenauslese or Beerenauslese with seductive exotic scents and deep concentration.

Wine has been made at the cloister Stiftsweingut Heiligenkreuz Freigut Thallern for 850 years making it the second oldest existing winery in Austria. The recent engagement of the German enologist Michael Koch has brought about efforts to modernize the winery and pleasant results can be tasted inside their still rather gothic looking bottles. This gives hope that other sleepy old fashioned Zierfandler wineries will raise their heads and move toward a lively future of improved quality.

Weinakademiker Stefan Köstenbauer has also recently moved into the field of winemaking in the Thermenregion. His first enthusiastic efforts for Zierfandler are focused on the traditional blend with the Rotgipfler grape and the extravagant use of oak barrels and long contact with the lees. His first winemaking techniques seem to disguise his philosophy that "terroir should influence the wine more than the grape variety". Never the less, his very first wines are adequate and leave hope that he'll get more terroir out of them in the future.

More experienced winemakers like Leopold Aumann, Manfred Biegler, Richard Thiel, and Gottfried Schellmann have long established vinification signatures for their Zierfandler. These quality-oriented wineries all rely on south-facing hills and low hectare yields for their Zierfandler. Some blend their Zierfandler with Rotgipfler and use the synonymous name "Spätrot" producing wines in the traditional medium dry style. Others prefer single vineyard Zierfandler in the new dryer style or the noble sweet style.

Synonyms: This grape is usually known in Austria as Zierfandler, unless it is blended with the grape Rotgipfler: then it often called Spätrot. A wine labeled with "Spätrot-Rotgipfler" is a blend of the two grape varieties Zierfandler and Rotgipfler. Zierfandler is known in Slovenia as Zerjavina and in Hungary as Cirfandli.

This late ripening variety requires very good south exposure while putting no special demands on soil. Zierfandler is prone to noble rot with botrytis usually affecting only the sun exposed side of the bunches. Must acidity is high at 10-14% and must weight is usually between 17-20 °KMW (85-100° oechsle).

Photograph courtesy of the Austrian Wine Marketing, © ÖWM Oberleitner

New Style - Dry, Dynamic and Compact

The "new style" is dry and heady, yet compact with a lot of nerve. This type of Zierfandler can accompany a number of dishes and is the ideal partner for Viennese Tafelspitz (boiled rump of beef) with apple-horseradish sauce.

Stefan Köstenbauer 1999 Spätrot-Rotgipfler Reserve

A clear, pale golden color lights the glass. Clean, soft buttery scents signal the unusual use of small oak barrels for this traditional blend. The wine is completely dry, but the high alcohol content (14,3%) give the impression of extract sweetness. The wine has pleasant acidity, but between the very recent bottling and use of oak, there is not much fruit or terroir to get out of the wine at this point. Tasted 12/00 and certainly worth tasting again in 6 months for a better conclusion.
Score: 14.8/20

Gottfried Schellman 1999 Gumpoldskirchner Zierfandler

This Zierfandler exemplifies the typical clear, pale gold color for this grape. Delicate pistachio and soft spice scents approach shyly. On the palate this wine is dry with an elegant acidic structure, midweight with tingly apple, hazelnut and nutmeg flavors. The finish is pleasant, but a bit short. This wine has some potential for bottle aging and should be at its best 2002-2005. Tasted 12/00.
Score 14.5/20

Johann Stadlmann 1998 obere Höfen, Kabinett

Clear, pale straw color is unusual for this often golden variety. The nose presents itself as nutty with spicy aromas of nutmeg and lovage and a slight botrytis tone that becomes more distinct on the palate. Compact, powerful body, dried apricot flavors and a striking, well integrated acidic structure are dynamic and grippy on the palate. This all follows through with a lingering flinty finish. This wine could age well, but why wait? Tasted 12/00.
Score 15.5/20


Johann Stadlmann 1999 Zierfandler, Qualitätswein

Clear youthful straw color. The perky scent of crunchy green apples and cardamom pods is refreshing. This bone dry wine has lots of nerve, powerful extract, and compact steely structure. Spicy flavors and plenty of juicy green apple fruit follows through on the palate and finish with flinty minerals. Potential for bottle aging until 2005+.
Score 15.6/20

Traditional Style - Medium Dry and Powerful

I once met a tall elegant man in a long loden coat at a wine tasting in lower Austria that I remember saying, "If fashion wasn't so ridiculous, they wouldn't have to change it so often." Dark olive green loden coats are practical: they keep you warm and dry, never look dirty, never wear out, and are never in or out of style. The gentleman was actually not referring to his coat though, but rather to the medium dry Zierfandler blend (called Spätrot-Rotgipfler) in his wine glass. Never was there a wine that just a touch of residual sugar suited better. Despite its fuddy-duddy reputation, this style of Zierfandler harmonizes well with newfangled fusion dishes spiced with ginger and cilantro and is a surprising alternative to Gewürztraminer with goose liver.

Stiftsweingut Heiligenkreuz - Freigut Thallern 1997 Gumpoldskirchner Zierfandler, Auslese

The long complicated name, the odd-shaped half liter bottle, and the funky label will definitely not cause a marketing coup, but the quality of the wine and the price are a thoroughly pleasant surprise. The wine shows a clear, brilliant pale golden yellow and a distinctive spicy, nutty nose. Characteristic sweetness plays coyly with a stately acidic structure. This wine is well-balanced, but doesn't have a whole lot of finesse. It's potent alcohol, residual sugar and acidity will guarantee it a long life indeed. Tasted 12/00
Score: 15/20

Johann Stadlmann 1998 Zierfandler, Mandel Höh, Qualitätswein

Clear youthful straw color. Pronounced scent of quince and pear is spiced generously with cardamom. This full bodied wine pounces with flavor that is carried by a powerful alcohol content and detectable residual sweetness. The stately acidic structure lends balance. The finish is long and juicy. Tasted 12/00
Score: 15.7/20

Leopold Aumann 1998 Zierfandler, Qualitätswein

Young, bright, straw color. Scents of pistachio and coriander with Muscat and canned pineapple fruit awake expectations of an Asian adventure. Exotically flavored travel continues on the palate where racy acidity frolics with residual sugar. Its definitely worth forgetting about beer with your next fusion dish and trying something fun like this. Tasted 12/00
Score: 15.8/20

Noble Style - Sweet, Opulent and Vigorous

The regular appearance of botrytis in autumn in many of the Zierfandler vineyards is guarantee for a yearly batch of noble sweet wine. The nervy acidity of the Zierfandler makes it an exquisitely balanced sweet wine.

Johann Stadlmann 1998 Zierfandler, Mandel Höh, Beerenauslese

Brilliantly clear golden yellow radiates from the glass. Pleasant botrytis spice, pronounced scents of exotic fruit, dried apricots, and cream clover honey are fascinating on the nose. All the aromas follow through and marry on the on a sweet palate with wonderfully balanced acidity and a long, delicate finish. Tasted 12/00.
Score: 17/20