| After a successful first day at the academy, I am really
looking forward to the second day's program, after all we will
be instructed by one of Austria's top wine makers, Andi Kollwentz.
The morning is scheduled with a 3-hour lecture and wine tasting.
The afternoon's program is a workshop at the Roemerhof Winery
including barrel tastings.
Since we are all expected to have a good knowledge of winemaking
basics, Andi Kollwentz restricts himself to a quick review
of our winemaking handbook and a short film with visual demonstration
of the most common techniques. He does a good job of presenting
the winemaker's choices in the cuverie and the advantages
and disadvantages of various techniques. It soon becomes
clear that Andi Kollwentz is no country bumpkin that makes
wine only because his father and grandfather did. He is a
cosmopolitan wine maker with international experience and
knowledge of the newest groundbreaking methods in enology.
We learn specifics and discuss hot themes like most concentration,
comparing saignée, vacuum evaporation, reverse osmosis
and cyroextraction. Whether or not wood chips and inner staves
produce the same results as barrel maturation is a subject
that raises many questions among the students and leads us
on to micro-oxygenation and macro-oxidation.
We don't just stop at wine making, but also discuss treatment
of the wine, wine analysis, and packaging. Questions about
clarification and stabilization are answered. We talk about
the indications and reasons for chemical additives, what
is allowed and what is taboo, and what in reality happens
in the world of wine. Wine analysis and packaging sounds
awfully dry, but these subjects are also presented in an
interesting manner. Wine bottle closures bring out strong
opinions among the seminar participants, as expected.
Like Bernhard Fiedler, Andi Kollwentz reviews some of the
vinification questions from past exams. Here are some examples:
- Why and how can the acidity of most and wine be adjusted?
- Explain the reasons for the use of each of the following
substances: a) potassium ferrocyanide b) sorbic acid c)
ascorbic acid d) bentonit e)kieselghur
- Explain the roll of oxygen in fermentation and maturation.
- Explain the main points of cold sterile filtration in
the bottling process, along with its advantages and disadvantages.
Clearly, the exam questions are quite specific and require
a good understanding of the hows and whys of wine making.
Andi Kollwentz also warns us about the 6 part questions and
the need to be able to write something accurate about all
six terms for a positive point count. There are times, he
says, when questions that appear to be quite simple, like
the one about acidity adjustment, are in fact quite complicated.
We should take this into consideration when choosing which
questions we answer on the exam. Taking the time to make
a quick outline makes it clear in which questions we are
most competent and can achieve the most points.
After lunch, we car pool to Roemerhof, the Kollwentz family
winery in Grosshoeflein, just a 20 minutes drive away. Now
I know why Andi Kollwentz knows so much about all the latest
techniques and equipment; he's using it! He's set up older
equipment models for us to look at side by side with newer
technology. Various press models, crushers, destemmers, pumps,
hoses, filters and other techie toys like a vacuum evaporation
concentrator and a micro-oxygenation gadget are all set up
for our inspection. It's so much easier to understand how
these things function and differ from each other when you
get to see them and have them explained by someone who works
with them. As interesting as all of this is, it is the part
of the cellar with all the small oak barrels that I find
the most fascinating. Chardonnay is presently fermenting
and we can see and hear it as big lazy bubbles plop occasionally
up the little glass balloons in the barrel spouts.
The day's instruction has been great, but I realize I still
have lots of study and reading ahead of me before I can confidently
approach examinations! Tomorrow is another long day of seminars,
but I decide to link up with a few other students to explore
the gastronomy of Burgenland
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