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Julia Sevenich's
Uncorked in the Alps
 
According to legend a knight of the Albigensian Crusade, Gaspard de Sterimberg laid down his sword and replaced it with a plough towards the beginning of the 13th century. Deeply saddened by the destruction of war in the name of religion, he retreated to the mountain above the city of Tain to lead a solitary life of prayer and to tend vines he had brought back with him from the city of Syrah in Persia.

Although the hermit's chapel still stands on the 600 m hill named Hermitage, the legend of the source of the Syrah grape has been disproved. DNA sequencing has identified the parents of the Syrah grape variety as the rustic French varieties Mondeuse Blanche of the Savoie Region and Dreza of the Adeche region, each on opposite sides of the Rhône river.

Approximately 130 ha of vines grow on reasonably steep south-facing granite terraces in the Hermitage appellation. Red wines are made from Syrah while the whites are made from Marsanne and Roussanne. The red wines are typically deeply colored and richly perfumed with ripe red fruit. These powerful, well-structured wines have firm tannins and the best wines from the more elevated vineyards can have the potential to age for two decades or more.

Crozes-Hermitage surrounds Hermitage and is the northern Rhône's largest appellation. Here, too the reds are made from Syrah, although a small proportion of Marsanne and Rousanne can be added during fermentation. The soils of Crozes-Hermitage are richer than in Hermitage and the wines are softer, fruitier, and usually best drunk somewhat younger.

Date Tasted Monday, June 21, 2004Score Tasting Note
2002 Caves des Papes - Les Brunelles - Crozes Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 86 This wine is dark ruby red with violet reflections. The nose is discreet and flowery with heather, tarragon, and vanilla, but there is a suspicious wiff of overripe and rotting dark berries. On the palate the few tannins are tight, but the alcohol is overbearing and overripe berries surface increasingly. This wine will benefit from a little more bottle aging, but will never evolve to more than a good everyday wine. Drink. 2007-1012.
2000 Caves des Papes - Oratorio - Crozes Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 88 This medium ruby colored wine has a discreet flowery nose with red and black forest berries. The palate is medium to full-bodied with a stingy mouthfeel. Firm, nicely structured medium tannin content seems just a bit meager opposed the high alcohol content. Flavors of tarragon, minerals (iron), moss, and sweet dark berries carry through on a medium long finish. Drink 2006-2012.
2001 Cave de Tain l' Hermitage - Nobles Rives - Crozes Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 86 This medium cherry red wine has sweaty saddle, savory, smoke, and vanilla on the nose. The wine is dry with rather sharp acidity. Hints of licorice and black tea can be found in red berry fruit. The body is medium, as are the tannins which are astringent and somewhat green. Drink now to 2010.
2001 Cave de Tain l' Hermitage - Les Hauts du Fief - Crozes Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 87 Medium ruby red. Pronounced vanilla aroma, with light animal tones in background. Heather. Medium bodied, balanced but perky acidity. acidity, high alcohol, soft tannins. Red berry fruit, Drink now to 2010.
2000 Chapoutier, M. - La Sizeranne - Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 92 This dark dense ruby wine shows no violet hues. The nose is deep and complex with hung game, leather, ripe blackberries, and spice. The palate is full-bodied, abundant velvety tannins. Complex and layered flavors of garrique, tar and licorice linger long with a mineral-iron finish. Drink 2006 to 2016.
2000 Caves des Papes - Les Echalas - Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 88 This medium ruby-violet wine has pronounced vanilla tones obscuring the scent of red berries and deciduous forest after a spring rain. The palate is light bodied and fruity with little yet firm tannin. The finish lingers with red berry fruit, garden herbs, and vanilla. Drink now to 2012.
2000 Caves des Papes - Oratorio - Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 88 This dark dense ruby wine has a pronounced gingerbread nose with blackberry marmelade and chrry liqueur. The tannins are still young and together with the perky acidity are currently astringent, but firm and should soften and sweeten with some bottle aging. Drink 2008 to 2015.
2001 Cave de Tain l' Hermitage - Gambert de Loche - Hermitage (750 ml)
Monday, June 21, 2004 92 This dense ruby wine has a youthful violet rim. The nose displays dark berry fruit with toasty, oak aromas mingeling with leather and spice. Layers of sweet ripe blackberries and blueberries, tar, heather, and vanilla are supported by firm, well structured tannins. Minerals and peppery spice join in on the long lingering finish. This wine will continue to improve and develop over the next years; best drunk between 2007 and 2020.

 

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