In the last 15 years Austria has changed its attitude
and upgraded its standards more than any other wine producing
country in Europe. International demand for Austrian wine
has never been so high, yet consumers are confronted with
complicated labels focused on often obscure grape varieties
and numerous quality categories defined by grape sugar content.
Official vineyard classifications do not exist, but since
no one wants to pretend that all plots are equally well sited,
unofficial classification and vineyard names often cast confusion
on the labels. Add to all this the enthusiastic experimentation
of Austrian producers and the result is sometimes a myriad
of wine styles found within one small wine district. It's
no surprise that it is even difficult for the average Austrian
to be sure what breed of wine is in the bottle.
In 1996 the Austrian Wine Marketing Association opened the
discussion of distinct regional identities. On Thursday,
the 22nd of February, 2001 Austria's Agricultural Minister
Wilhelm Molterer signed a decree outlining new laws for forming
Interprofessional Committees in each of the 18 Austrian wine
districts. Dr. Bertold Salomon of the Austrian Wine Marketing
Association says, "This marks the beginning of a new
evolution in Austrian wine law."
These Interprofessional Committees (IK) will consist of
grape growers, wine makers, cooperatives, and wine merchants
and will have the main goal of emphasizing and further increasing
quality, defining regional identities of Austrian wine, and
making Austrian wine labels easier to understand. Each of
the IKs will be empowered to choose between continuing with
the present Germanic system of must weight classification
or of establishing new controlled appellation wines to be
labeled Districtus Austria Controllatus (DAC).
The proposed DAC system has long established role models
in France, Italy and Spain yet will allow wine producers
more room for individuality. The DAC model introduces the
long term goal of establishing geographically defined, typical
wine styles within the districts, each with a distinct internationally
recognized identity. Yield restrictions and vinification
methods would be set by the IKs but required by EU law to
meet or exceed the present minimum restrictions for Qualitätswein.
The must weight "Prädikat" classifications
Kabinett, Spätlese, Trockenbeerenauslese, etc. would
disappear from the DAC label, but could exist as vinification
stipulations for particular DACs. The IKs would also have
the option of defining vineyard classifications and their
permitted grape varieties. There would still remain Qualitätswein
that do not fit under a DAC label. These wines would continue
to rely on the grape variety and must weight classification,
but the labels would be simplified by no longer having small
district and vineyard names included.
Given the structure of the Austrian wine industry, it will not be an easy task
getting Interprofessional Committees to agree on DAC specifications. The average
Austrian winery has less than 2.5 hectares of vineyards, 10 or even 20 different
grape varieties, and several vastly different vineyards and specialties. Merchants
are looking for typical wine styles with a continuous supply to fulfill current
demand and justify international marketing, yet realize that the diversity
of Austria's artisan wines is its most precious marketing asset. The road to
Districtus Austria Controllatus is still a long one, but perhaps we can look
forward to Austrian wine labels that are as easy to understand as Austrian
wines are to enjoy.
|