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Julia Sevenich's
Uncorked in the Alps
 

In the last 15 years Austria has changed its attitude and upgraded its standards more than any other wine producing country in Europe. International demand for Austrian wine has never been so high, yet consumers are confronted with complicated labels focused on often obscure grape varieties and numerous quality categories defined by grape sugar content. Official vineyard classifications do not exist, but since no one wants to pretend that all plots are equally well sited, unofficial classification and vineyard names often cast confusion on the labels. Add to all this the enthusiastic experimentation of Austrian producers and the result is sometimes a myriad of wine styles found within one small wine district. It's no surprise that it is even difficult for the average Austrian to be sure what breed of wine is in the bottle.

In 1996 the Austrian Wine Marketing Association opened the discussion of distinct regional identities. On Thursday, the 22nd of February, 2001 Austria's Agricultural Minister Wilhelm Molterer signed a decree outlining new laws for forming Interprofessional Committees in each of the 18 Austrian wine districts. Dr. Bertold Salomon of the Austrian Wine Marketing Association says, "This marks the beginning of a new evolution in Austrian wine law."

These Interprofessional Committees (IK) will consist of grape growers, wine makers, cooperatives, and wine merchants and will have the main goal of emphasizing and further increasing quality, defining regional identities of Austrian wine, and making Austrian wine labels easier to understand. Each of the IKs will be empowered to choose between continuing with the present Germanic system of must weight classification or of establishing new controlled appellation wines to be labeled Districtus Austria Controllatus (DAC).

The proposed DAC system has long established role models in France, Italy and Spain yet will allow wine producers more room for individuality. The DAC model introduces the long term goal of establishing geographically defined, typical wine styles within the districts, each with a distinct internationally recognized identity. Yield restrictions and vinification methods would be set by the IKs but required by EU law to meet or exceed the present minimum restrictions for Qualitätswein. The must weight "Prädikat" classifications Kabinett, Spätlese, Trockenbeerenauslese, etc. would disappear from the DAC label, but could exist as vinification stipulations for particular DACs. The IKs would also have the option of defining vineyard classifications and their permitted grape varieties. There would still remain Qualitätswein that do not fit under a DAC label. These wines would continue to rely on the grape variety and must weight classification, but the labels would be simplified by no longer having small district and vineyard names included.

Given the structure of the Austrian wine industry, it will not be an easy task getting Interprofessional Committees to agree on DAC specifications. The average Austrian winery has less than 2.5 hectares of vineyards, 10 or even 20 different grape varieties, and several vastly different vineyards and specialties. Merchants are looking for typical wine styles with a continuous supply to fulfill current demand and justify international marketing, yet realize that the diversity of Austria's artisan wines is its most precious marketing asset. The road to Districtus Austria Controllatus is still a long one, but perhaps we can look forward to Austrian wine labels that are as easy to understand as Austrian wines are to enjoy.

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