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Kaiser Josef the second passed a santion in 1784, allowing farmers to sell their own products on their premises. Numerous "Buschenschank" survive to this day and are cosy rustic places to enjoy wine, smoked meats, homemade bread, salads dressed with Styrian pumpkin seed oil and other local agricultural products.

"Südsteirische Weinstrasse" reads the road sign; I translate "south Styrian wine route" in my head. The tidy landscape reminds me of a warm, cozy picture book from my childhood. My eyes glide over the patchwork fields and vineyards, steep hillsides and little farm houses. There seems to be a little winery and Buschenschank (a small rustic, often family-operated eatery) located on the top of each knoll. There is, in fact, with 3,700 hectares of vineyards in Styria and 3,500 grape growers, an average of less than one hectare of vines per farm. Nearly 80% of the Styrian wines never even make it to the open market, but are sold and consumed at the farm's Buschenschank along with their other farm products. It is only a minority of farms that subsist completely from winemaking.

	Four excellent winemakers (left to right) Willi Sattler, Erich Polz, Manfred Tement, and Alois Gross built on the fundaments of their parent's wineries and lead the way to international recognition.
	Romatic wine cellar at Otto Riegelnegg's Ölwitschhof.
	The storybook vineyard landscape looks like a patchwork quilt.

These full-time wineries set their quality standards high, producing an average of only 4,000 liters of wine per hectare. Styrian white wines have long been famous for their light, dry, fruity wines that are often characterized by racy acidity. Recently, a new style of wine has appeared with more alcohol, more depth, terroir and aging potential. Manfred Tement was one of the first of a new generation of Styrian winemakers to have success with at least partial malolactic fermentation in the early eighties appealing to a more international audience. Colleagues like Ulrike and Alois Gross, Willi Sattler, and the Polz brothers followed suit and next to their line of "Steirische Klassik", were soon producing single vineyard varietals of international caliber. They have been doing much more than just putting traditional tart, fruity Styrian white wines in oak barrels. They have improved viticulture techniques and are producing better, healthier, riper grapes than ever before. Viticulturist Walter Polz says "More important than the winemaking technique is the quality of the grapes in the vineyard," and his opinion is shared by his winemaking colleagues.

	Chapel dedicated to St. Urban, the patron saint of wine.
	"Klapotetz" are decorate vineyards everywhere in Styria. These clapping windmills were once used to scare birds away from rippening grapes. Feathered culprits became so accustomed to the Klapotetz that they finally seemed to signal "Come one, come all. The grapes are at their sweetest!" and now stand still.

Driving through villages along the wine routes of Styria, I realize that things have changed since my last visit here. What had started as a new trend in quality among a small handful of wineries on the south Styrian wine route has gained momentum. Several modern, new buildings have appeared, all the older houses seem to be freshly painted, and the flower gardens a bit brighter. Full-time wineries have expanded and built new cellars and wine-tasting facilities. There are now 7 well marked wine roads for motorists, 300 km of bike routes and 400 km of horse riding trails (information: www.steiermark.com). Slow sleepy villages seem to have gained a newfound youth and energy while still retaining their old world charm. The new successful Styrian wine generation has come of age and brought on a whole new infrastructure catering to international wine tourists.

Styria's Grape Varieties

White wine varieties grow in 75% of Styria's vineyards, leaving only 15% for red wines and 10% for a unique grape called Schilcher, used for rosé wines.

Welschriesling is Styria's most important grape. It is very fruity and usually light and quite tart. It is best drunk young and is suitable as an everyday wine and particularly refreshing on a hot summer day.

Weissburgunder is also known as Klevner or Pinot Blanc. This full bodied elegant wine variety is the second most commonly grown grape.

Müller-Thurgau is also called Rivaner or Riesling x Sylvaner. This variety is best enjoyed young when its grapey Muscat aromas can be appreciated.

Morillon is the Styrian name for Chardonnay. Some of Styria's greatest wines are made from this grape. It can be found in essentially two styles. The traditional Styrian style is fermented in stainless steel tanks and has a strikingly clear structure with good volume and fruity elegant acidity. The international style is rich creamy and voluptuous with a pleasant acidity and enjoys some subtle oak aging. New oak is generally used in small doses to attain an international flair without loosing the typical regional characteristics.

Styria's climate and soil are predestined for Sauvignon Blanc. Many enthusiasts claim that some of the world's best Sauvignon come from this part of Austria. Here, too, two different styles can be found. There is a light grassy Sauvignon that is made to be drunk young, and a riper full-bodied type that will also often enjoy a small dose of oak in good years.

Muskateller is a specialty in Styria. It is nearly always bone dry and light. It is extremely aromatic and its sweet fruity Muscat scent and light, dry palate make it a lovely aperitif.

Ruländer is also commonly know as Grauer Burgunder or Pinot Gris. It is nearly always dry in Styria and is full bodied and spicy with pleasant fruit and harmonious acidity.

Styrians like differentiate between their Gewürztraminer clones, calling the less spicy of the two simply Traminer. It is easy to get excited about wines from this grape in Styria. The typical Styrian tartness keeps this full-bodied, flowery, spicy varietal from tasty too soapy or oily.

Schilcher is the name of the wine made from the Blauer Wildbacher grapes. This vine is able to flourish on its own phyloxera resistant rootstocks. It is not unusual for this extremely grassy scented rosé wine to have more than 11 g per liter acidity. This grape has a cult following and is also used to make a drinkable sparkling wine.

The autochthon red wine varieties Blauer Zweigelt, Blauburger and St. Laurent are made by many of the top wineries in Styria and can be quite decent in good years.

Recommendable Wineries in Styria

Tasting Notes (Scores reflect the author's own personal tastes: 0-10 undrinkable, 10-12 disappointing, 12-14 enjoyable, 14-16 recommendable, 16-18 highly recommendable, 18-19 exceptional, 19-20 superlative)

Weingut Gross 1998 Ratscher Nussberg
This wine is a cuveé with 80% Morillon and 20% Grauburgunder. A soft floral fragrance precedes complex nut and fruit aromas. Typical Nussberg mineral notes and lively Styrian acidity give this wine a youthful character. Drink until 2003 Score: 16.5/20

Weingut Gross 1999 Grauburgunder
(Barrel tasting May, 2000) Light straw colored with copper highlights. Pleasantly spicy approach with lots of fruit extract, full-bodied and creamy with balanced acidity. Lingering dry, mineraly finish. Drink until 2004. Score 16.5/20

Weingut Gross 1998 Gewürztraminer "Gamitzberg"
Peach, tangerine and rose petals in the nose, laced with nutmeg and clover honey. All the flavors merge well and follow through on the palate. Dry while quite fruity, and a lingering spicy finish. Drink until 2004+. Score: 18.5/20

Sattlerhof 1999 Weissburgunder "Kranachberg"
Rustic, complex and earthy --- This wine seems to be more in the classic white Burgundy fashion than Styrian style. Discordant parts come together in a harmonious melody. Moderate in weight and oak character, complex and ever-changing on the palate. Definitely not a laboratory wine. Drink until 2004. Score: 16.8/20

Sattlerhof 1998 Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese
Fine, delicate fruit with clear Muscat aromas are followed by flavors of canned pineapple and yellow raisins. Intense concentrated sweetness is balanced with tangy acidity. This wine will become more complex with age and will be a wonderful dessert accompaniment for another 20 years. Score: 17/20

Weingut Manfred Tement 1999 Weissburgunder "Grassnitzberg" Aromas of freshly baked sponge cake and nuts are followed by ripe honeydew melon on the palate and a long, dry mineraly finish. Score 16.2/20

Weingut Manfred Tement 1999 Sauvignon Blanc "Grassnitzberg" Gooseberry and elderberry fragrances come together with ripe juicy yellow bell pepper aromas. Pleasant, symmetric acidity gives structure. Score: 16.6/20

Weingut Manfred Tement 1999 Sauvignon Blanc "Zieregg"
(Barrel tasting in May, 2000) Spicy bouquet with black currants, gooseberries and elderblossom. The vegetal aromas on the palate are not a bit green, but have a sweet, compact extract. 40% of this wine was fermented in small oak barrels which gives the wine complexity. An incredibly long finish. Drink until 2002. Score: 18.5/20

Weingut Manfred Tement 1997 Morillon "Zieregg"
This vintage was a great one in Styria and this wine was allowed to mature for two years in small oak barrels and an additional 6 months in large casks. Sweet cream, cinnamon, and tobacco all come together with incredible exotic fruit and vanilla. This is a breathtaking wine with a long finish and definitely still has a long and lovely life ahead. This wine can certainly be compared with a great Burgundy, both in quality and in price. Score: 19.1/20

Weingut Walter & Erich Polz 1999 Gelber Muskateller "Steirische Klassik"
Delicate grapey perfume with soft rose accents. Crisp acidity dances on the palate. This light-bodied, dry wine is great chilled on a hot summer day , drunk alone or with appetizers. Drink now. Score 15.8/20

Weingut Walter & Erich Polz 1999 Sauvignon Blanc "Steirische Klassik"
Fresh, lively, and tart are the words to describe gooseberry, green apple and nettle flavors of this very typical Styrian Sauvignon Blanc. Dry, bright finish. Drink now. Score: 16/20

Weingut Walter & Erich Polz 1997 Chardonnay "Obegg"
Rich and concentrated flavors of ripe fig, pineapple and pear with hazelnuts and toasty oak notes are kept tight and given structure by lively acidity. It is long and intricate on the finish. Drink until 2002+. 18.4/20

Weingut Anna & Albert Neumeister 1999 Roter Traminer "Steintal Selektion"
Classic spicy character with dried plums, rosewood, and a honeyed aroma. The high alcohol content is masked by intense, complex layers of flavor. Long, lingering bone dry finish. A quintessential Gewürz --- great with goose liver. Drink until 2005+. Score: 18/20

Weingut Eduard Tscheppe 1999 Pinot Gris "Ried Pössnitzberg"
Extremely pale in color, the nose is dominated by pineapple and kiwi bouquet with delicate hazelnut notes. Limey acidity and a lush texture define the structure. Pleasant bitterness on the finish. Score: 16.7/20

Weingut Eduard Tscheppe 1999 Chardonnay "Ried Czamillonberg" Fragrances of butterscotch and vanilla point toward generous use of oak. Smooth with a good balance of sweet fruits and typical Styrian tartness. This is a classic full-bodied, yet straightforward Chardonnay. Drink until 2004. Score: 17/20

Weingut Eduard Tscheppe 1999 Muskateller "Ried Czamillonberg" Very pale colored. Loud and lively sweet Muscat aromas are a bit tamer and more floral on the palate. Drink now. Score: 15.5/20

Reccomended Wineries