Rousillon's landscape at the foot of the snow capped Pyrenees is quite a contrast to the flat coastal plains of the Languedoc. Steep terraced vineyards form a huge amphitheater facing the Mediterranean. Vines are usually low and bush-trained to withstand winds. Rousillon's climate is France's sunniest with 24°C average temperature in July, the hottest month of the year. Winters are mild and most of the average yearly precipitation of 577 mm begins with heavy rains in October and continues at regular intervals until May. The warm Tramontane and Marinade winds speed air circulation and prevent fungal diseases in the vineyard. The appearance of flavescence dorée in 1993, a phytoplasma disease spread by leaf hoppers, is currently the biggest worry in the vineyard. Wine quality does not appear to be affected, but the supply of grapes is reduced as it can kill off young vines and reduce the yield of old vines by about 50%.

After the World War Rousillon was known as a mass producer of mediocre wines. There was in fact often an excess of wine, which the government then bought for the production of industrial alcohol. This did nothing to encourage the production of quality wine and in the long term did more harm than good for the regional economy. As competition from the New World on the international market finally crushed the local wine economy, producers finally awoke to make the necessary changes. Less worthy vineyards were ripped out and replaced with orchards and yield restrictions were drastically lowered to 40 ha/hl or less for all A.O.C. wines. The region's reputation still suffers despite the fact that 70% of Rousillon vineyards are now devoted to the A.O.C. category at the top of France's quality pyramid. Some vintners have chosen to plant non-traditional varieties and market their wines in the more lenient and simple quality category, Vin de Pays. Vin de Pays are often produced as varietals from well known international grape varieties like Merlot or Chardonnay. These wines can offer good value for money and a cleverly placed well-known varietal name smack in the middle of the label has gained these wines re-entry to the U.K. and American markets. We English-speakers are often preoccupied with varietals and seem to have our inhibitions with obscure appellation names. This is a pity, because we then often miss out on Rousillon's greatly improved A.O.C.s which offer the most exciting and unique quality wines in the region. The overall modernization of winemaking techniques, particularly temperature control and the use of small oak barrels, has done much to improve the quality of Rousillon wines in the last ten years.

The Appellations d'Orgine Controlees

Maps of the Appellations:    click here ( after viewing maps, user your BACK key to return here )

Vin Doux Naturels
Rousillon's dry hot climate guarantees sweet, ripe, healthy grapes regularly. The hard, rocky, acidic soil has never lent itself easily to building cool wine cellars and as a result Rousillon has historically always made good wines, but stored them poorly. The logical result is a long tradition of fortified sweet wines.

The vineyards of Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Cru perch dramatically on just under 1,500 ha of terraced schist slopes above the sea in Rousillon's southeast corner. Grenache Noir dominates the blend making up at least 50% of a Banyuls and 75% of a Banyuls Grand Cru. Many of these very concentrated wines undergo an intentional oxidative maturation in wood or partially filled glass bonbonnes to achieve rancio flavors of overripe fruit, nuts, melted butter, and even mild cheese. Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Cru can be of a single vintage or blended in a local form of the solera system and some claim that they are France's answer to Port. Banyuls will typically have an amber or brick color and is one of the few wines that can be combined successfully with chocolate.

The Maury appellation is a 12 by 4 km vineyard situated between the chain of the Corbières to the north and the Fenoullèdes massif to the south. Very similar to Banyuls, these wines are also a blend dominated by Grenache Noir. Wines from this appellation often undergo a longer maceration and are more tannic and deeper in color than Banyuls and often require longer maturation.

The Rivesaltes appellation takes its name from the village of the same name, but its production covers a much larger area. These wines come in all conceivable colors and styles according to the grape varieties used and a wide choice of methods for vinification and maturation. Rivesaltes can be made from any combination of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Maccabéo, Torbato, Muscat of Alexandria, and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Vinification techniques include everything from no skin contact at all to long maceration with fortification on the skins. Some wines are fermented in stainless steel and bottled young, while others are made to taste deliberately rancio. These wines can have complex aromas of dried fruit, vanilla, coffee and honey. Grand Rousillon is a seldom used appellation for declassified Rivesaltes.

The zone of production for the Muscat de Rivesaltes appellation comprises those of Banyuls, Maury and Rivesaltes and can be produced on from the Muscat of Alexandria or the more noble Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. These wines are typically vinified in stainless steel to retain their fresh fruity character and often bottled in the spring after the harvest. These delightful wines rely on their purity of fruit and are best drunk young and cool, either as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to fruity desserts.

Côtes du Rousillon
Most of this appellation's vineyards are found to the south of the Têt on nearly 4800 ha. These wines are dry and can be white, red, or rosé. Red and rosé are blends of at least three grapes among the varieties Carignan, Grenache Noir, Lladoner Pelut, Syrah, Mouvèdre, and Cinsault. Whites must be made from two varieties from Maccabeo, Tourbat, Rousanne, Marsanne, Rolle or Grenache Blanc.

Côtes du Rousillon Villages
This appellation consists of 200 ha of vineyards north of the river Têt stretching right up to the foothills of the Corbière mountains. The wines are exclusively dry and red and must be made from at least three grape varieties. Carignan, Syrah, Grenache Noir, Lladoner Pelut, Cinsault, and Mouvèdre are all possible partners in the blend. In the past carbonic maceration was a common vinification technique, but small oak barrels are finding more and more popularity recently. Four villages have the right to add their name to the appellation: Carmany, Latour de France, Lesquerde, and Tautavel. These sub-appellations each have their own specific methods of wine-making and selection of grape varieties corresponding to their respective terroirs. These dark, potent reds are spicy and meaty with dark berry fruit and plenty of chewy tannin.

Collioure
This appellation is named for Rousillon's most picturesque seaside village at the foot of steep terraced vineyards. The wines are perhaps the most prized and the rarest of Rousillon's dry reds. The boundaries of this appellation are the same as Banyuls, but it is Mouvèdre rather than Grenache that tends to dominate the blend. Mouvèdre, Syrah, and Grenache Noir must make up at least 60% of the cuvée. Carignan and Cinsault are also sometimes added, but to a lesser extent than in the Côtes. These deep, dark potent red wines often taste so ripe that they give the impression of sweetness although they are completely dry.

Tasting Notes

Chateau Aymerich 1998 Cuvée Augustin, Côte du Rousillon Villages
Spicy aromas of juniper and black pepper, blackberries and boysenberries. A real mouthful with a chocolate-like texture and a hint of caramel on the palate. Young tannins and a good lengthy finish. Makes for good drinking now, but should continue to improve and be at peak from 2003-2008. Score: 17/20

Domaine de Traginer 1998 Collioure
Intense huckleberries, lingonberries, mint, and heather. Muscular tannins and nicely balanced fruit and body. Discreet hint of licorice in the finish. Still needs a little time. Drink 2005-2012. Score:16,8

Chateau Aymerich 1998 Muscat de Rivesaltes
Sweet perfume of fresh picked Muscat grapes with fascinating exotic notes of mango and sencha green tea. Lusciously sweet, but fresh and not cloying. Would be a wonderful accompaniment to a small dish of duck liver with peaches. Score 16.8/20

M. Chapoutier 1994 Banyuls
Extravagant spicy dried fruit aroma - candied kumquats, raisins, and dates. Even more complexity on the palate with bitter chocolate, cherry liqueur, and leather together with exotic dried fruits. Tannins and light, pleasant bitterness balance the sweetness. Powerfully packed finish. Potential for long aging, certainly for 25+ years. Score: 18/20

Jean de Serrabonne 1996 Banyuls Grand Cru
Earthy forest floor, hazelnuts and voluptuous over-ripe wild berries. Very tangy mouthful with candied orange peels and a nutty finish. Should continue to improve and mellow with age. Score 17/20