| Promptly at 8 AM the director of the Austrian Wine Academy,
Dr. Josef Schuller MW introduces us to our wine tasting mentor
Lynne Sherriff MW with whom we will spend 2 ½ half hours
learning guidelines for evaluation of unspecified wines in
the morning and 2 ½ hours in the afternoon on evaluation
of partly-specified wines. Originally from South Africa and
now wine merchant at Vinfruco in London, Ms Sherriff is a charismatic
and energetic personality and I am pleased to have such a well-qualified
woman as a role model for sensory evaluation of wines. Three
of the six examination papers required for the diploma are
tasting papers. Through the WSET® Systematic Approach to
Tasting we should be able to "identify the grape varieties
concerned and determine production, location of origin, quality
level, state of maturity and age, the characteristics of grape
varieties in the vineyard, winery and cellar, and the variety
of styles available."
Lynne Sherriff quickly breaks the ice by drawing a graph and
explaining, "Wine tasting evaluation is 50% E, 40% M, 5%
T, and 5% B." The equation is quickly solved: E= experience,
M=memory, T=Talent, and B=BS! :-) For those of us relying on
our talents, charm, and luck it became clear that it was time
to get down to work and gain some experience in writing tasting
notes and hone our memory skills. Ms Sherriff gives us a checklist
of aspects to be included in each tasting note and says, "It
is of vital importance that a tasting note has a systematic approach,
with logic and a conclusion. Flowery journalese that sounds poetic,
but gives no real description and evaluation of a wine is useless
to consumers and branch employers alike and certainly not what
the Wine, Spirits and Education Trust is looking for on your
examination paper." Lynne laughs as she continues, "Be
expressive, be descriptive, but keep that canned fruit salad
out of your tasting notes!"
The WSET systematic checklist for wine tasting includes clarity,
intensity, color, and other observations for the appearance;
condition, intensity, development, and fruit character for the
nose; and sweetness, acidity, tannin, body, fruit intensity,
fruit character, alcohol and length for the palate. Examples
of tasting terms for each of the criteria in the checklist are
given. Lynne Sherriff explains that the evaluation of each of
the criteria gives us clues and can be put together logically
to come to a conclusion. For this conclusion, the WSET also provides
a checklist that includes the evaluation of quality, maturity,
age/vintage, origins, and commercial value.
After discussing what the various criteria in the checklist
can mean and how to put them together for our conclusion, we
are given 3 white wines and 3 red wines to taste blind. Following
are my tasting notes for the six wines:
1. The wine is clear and shiny with a very pale greenish-yellow
color. The viscosity is low to medium and no CO² is visible.
The nose is clean, appetizing, and discreet with scents of almond
blossom and apple --- shows no apparent use of oak. On the palate,
the wine is dry, medium-bodied with perky acidity and more flowery
and pale fruit flavors combined with minerals. The wine is elegant
rather than voluptuous, the alcohol approximately 13%, and the
finish is rather short (6 sec.) with a light, but not unpleasant,
bitter tone. The pale appearance and youthful nose of this wine
lead me to believe that the wine is young, probably 1999 vintage.
This is an average quality wine from the mid-class price range
that is pleasant to drink in its youth, but should hold well
for up to five years after the vintage. The medium body combined
with the aroma and flavor lead me to believe that this is a wine
from Burgundy-family grapes, possibly a Chardonnay. Because the
wine is unoaked and has a perky acidity, I would tend to place
it in a cool European climate. The slightly bitter finish, almond
components, and minerality let me guess at Friuli as the place
of origin.
Key: Mario Sciopetto 1999 Pinot Grigio, Friuli
2. This wine is brilliantly clear and an extremely pale nearly
colorless straw yellow. Viscosity is low to medium and no C0² is
apparent. The nose is fresh, clean and distinctly fruity. Peaches,
apricots, and rhubarb with a light Muscat component dominate
the steely nose. On the palate, the wine is clean and faultless,
off-dry and light bodied. The animated acidity is well-integrated
and a pleasant balance to the residual sugar. The fruit is incredibly
clear, remains reminiscent of stone fruit on the palate, and
follows through nicely on a medium long finish. I know of no
other region in the world that combines such clear stone fruit
with this kind of play between sweetness and acidity and because
there is no secondary bouquet and the color is quite pale, I
believe this wine to be a 1999 Riesling from Mosel. The wine
is of good quality with potential for aging 10-12 years quite
comfortably.
Key: Egon Müller 1999 Riesling Kabinett, Saar
3. This wine is also quite pale with a greenish-yellow color.
Viscosity is low, and no CO² is visible. The nose is clean,
if somewhat reductive, and there is no apparent use of oak. Youthful
green apple, grapefruit, and white pepper are the dominant aromas.
The palate is bone dry with racy acidity and medium body. The
alcohol content is also medium (ca. 12.5%). Citrus fruit and
spicy peppery components are the dominant flavors. The finish
is medium long with minerals and spice. It is only because I
live in Austria and have tasted this rare variety often that
I recognize it to be a Grüner Veltliner; the citrus fruit,
racy acidity, and peppery spice are all good clues. It is likely
from the Weinviertel and the 1999 vintage. It is a good quality
wine from the mid-level price class.
Key: Roman Pfaffl 1999 Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel
4. Clear, transparent, light ruby color with brick tones. The
nose is clean and faultless with soft raspberry fruit and discreet
compote, caramel, and toast aromas. The wine is dry with well-integrated
acidity, medium body, medium-high alcohol (ca. 13%). The flavor
components are mild in intensity and are reminiscent of red berries
with soft spicy components. The tannins are fine grained and
the finish simple and a bit on the short side. I believe this
to be a simple wine in the mid- range price category. The color
and aroma lead me to a wine with some bottle aging. It is the
red berry fruit that makes me think of Gamay. I shall estimate
this wine to be a 1996 Beaujolais Village.
Key: Campo Viejo 1997 Rioja Crianza
Note: The caramel and spice components should have made
me more aware of oak maturation and with better evaluation
of the color, I could have contributed the brick nuances to
variety rather than age.
5. Clear, transparent garnet with distinct brick hues. The wine
is clean and faultless and of mild intensity. The nose is reminiscent
of red berries with soft earthy hues and a faint barnyard scent.
The palate is dry with well-balanced, slightly perky acidity.
The alcohol seems heady in comparison to the body, which is light.
The flavors are more intense than the aromas; again with red
berries and earthy components, but the soft vanilla spice and
faint toasty attributes come through better and hold well on
a medium long finish. The wine is of average quality in the upper
mid-range price category. The color, red berry fruit and earthy
components combined with high alcohol and light body lead me
to believe this to be a classic, but simple Pinot Noir from Burgundy.
Key: Robert Chevillon 1997 Nuits St. George
6. This wine is dark ruby red with a watery rim. The nose is
clean, faultless and somewhat closed. The dominant aroma is flowery
and reminiscent of kitchen herbs. In the mouth the wine is dry,
medium-bodied, and of mild intensity. Cherry and plum fruit mingle
with slightly vegetal flavors. The acidity is on the racy side
and the use of oak is present, but discreet. The finish is short.
The color combined with the flowery-herbal and fruit components
take me to Toscana and Sangiovese; the pale rim and vegetal aromas
to a lesser vintage. The wine is still youthful, so I will estimate
a simple Chianti or IGT from 1998.
Key: Ruffino 1998 Chianti Classico
Overall, I feel as if I am off to a good start. Lynne Sherriff
does a fine job leading her students step by step to a logical
conclusion while communicated exactly what is expected of us
on our tasting papers. She never lets out the identity of the
wines until we have analyzed them as a group. Each student has
the chance to give their assessment and discuss points of disagreement.
We get not only a lot of useful hints and information from Lynne,
but also from one another.
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