... Yet another wonderful example of how, through the
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Hoke writes .........
The world of wine is exciting, not only for the evident sensory
pleasures it provides, but for the intriguing and amusing names
and stories that abound. Herein are a few famous wine names and
what they translate to, as well as the explanation of a few terms
you might find interesting.
Chateau Latour, Pauillac
Named after the small stone tower that serves as the estate symbol. Latour
means "the tower". But be wary---there's lots of chateaux out there
called "Latour Hyphens". That is, they bear the name of Latour
hyphen something else, but have no relation whatsoever to the great Grand
Vin de Chateau Latour. Doesn't mean they are good or bad, just that they
are not Chateau Latour.
Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, the justly famed Pauillac estate,
could be translated as Rothschild's Sheep House. Usually isn't.
Could be, though. Mouton is French for sheep.
Here's another sheep for you: There is a Chablis, a very good
Chablis, that is totally derived from the
Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis (of which there are seven). This Chablis, a
monopole (single- owner property) is part Vaudesir, part Preuses. But it is
not considered a Crand Cru---or it might be considered a Grand Cru, just not
named such. It is Chablis Domaine de la Moutonne, the only non-Grand
Cru made of two Grand Cru. Confused? Don't be; it's a Burgundian thing.
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, St. Julien
One of the better classified growth Bordeaux, a "Super Second", Ducru-Beaucaillou
has a lovely, pebbly stream running through the property. "Beaucaillou" means "beautiful
pebbles".
Chateau Beychevelle
Another Haut-Medoc Bordeaux, Beychevelle purportedly received its name from
the sailing ships coming down the Gironde Estuary. They customarily lowered
their sails as they passed the estate. The French cry for "Lower Sails" is "Basse
Voile". Eventually this became Beychevelle.
Water is essential to Bordeaux. For the grapes, of course,
but also because it was a port situated on an estuary of two rivers,
thereby controlling all the commerce of the region. The name itself
is
actually derived from the descriptive phrase au bord de l'eau (along the waters).
In Bordeaux, the Gironde Estuary splits into two rivers. The land
between the two rivers is called Entre-Deux-Mers, which technically means "between the seas",
but allowing for a little French
aggrandisement can be taken as "between the waters".
Many of the great chateaux of Bordeaux have "second label" wines
at lesser though not necessarily
inexpensive prices. For instance, Chateau Latour offers "Les Forts des
Latours". Hands down,
my favorite second label name is the Alter Ego de Palmer from Chateau
Palmer.
Urziger Würzgarten, Mosel
This vineyard is so named because of an iron-rich pocket at the bend of the
Mosel near the town of Urzig that produces noticeably spicy wines. "Wurzgarten" translates
as "Spice Garden".
Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Zeltinger Sonnuhr, of course
are famous for the large sundials in their
vineyards. Sonnenuhr means "sundial". Why is the sundial so important?,
you might ask. Good question! Since the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is so northerly, and
commensurately cold, the vineyard with the best sun exposure on the slope has
the advantage for getting grapes ripe, and sundials are always located exactly
on the spot where the slope gets the most sunlight (Duh!).
You Are My Sunshine, My Only Sunshine! Hey, the Italians know
about the importance of sun on the
vines as well. In the Piedmont several of the choicest vineyards incorporate
the words bricco and sorì in their names (Ceretto Bricco Rocche and Gaja Sorì Tildin,
for instance). Bricco is the local
word for where the crest of the hill first catches the sun; sorì, in
local dialect, is the place on a
southward facing slope where the snow melts first.
Graacher Himmelreich is next door to Wehlen. "Himmelreich" =
Kingdom of Heaven. (Most German vineyards were at one time owned
by the church, hence religious names abound.)
Chambertin, one of the most famous vineyard plots in the
world, is named after a peasant! A peasant named Bertin cultivated
a piece of land which became known locally as "Champs Bertin",
or "field of Bertin".
For the follicly challenged amongst us, the perfect wine would
probably be Le Montrachet. Why?
Because the name is derived from "Mont-Rachat", or "bald mountain".
And if you are standing at the foot of the famous slope, gazing reverently
at Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, try not to be startled when
you think you're in a war zone---you're not really: those explosions are from
the rock quarry right next to the vineyards.
There's been an awful lot of argument over the years about how
the Cote d'Or, that renowned stretch of Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir vines that defines Burgundy, got named as such. One group
insists the name, which seems to translate as "hillsides of
gold", refers to the golden color of the vineyard covered
slopes in autumn. A more practical group believes the name refers
to the financial aspects, and "slopes of gold" is all
about revenue generation. I'd put my money on the third version:
All those golden sloping vineyards face east, which in French is "Orient",
or Cote d'Orient (Hillsides Facing East), which over time got shortened
to Cote d'Or. Voila!
Chablis Grand Cru Les Grenouilles
Les Grenouilles is a prestigious Grand Cru Chablis. It is also the home of
quite a few frogs-hence, Les Grenouilles.
Liebfraumilch, the famous Rhine blend, took its name from
the "original" producer, the
Liebfrauenkirche (Church of the Holy Mother) near Worms. Hence the name Liebfraumilch-"Milk of the Blessed Mother".
Zeller Schwarze Katz, the well-known German Mosel wine,
is from the small town of Zell. Apparently, at one time there
was a black cat hanging around the cellar. Another lesser-known
oddity is a bottle showing a zaftige mother whaling away on the
naked backside of a young boy. It's called Krover Nacktarsch,
or "bare bottom".
Here's a tongue twisting name, and maybe one of the longest (but
once you learn it, it has kind of a nice flow to it): Staatliche
Weinbaudomane Schloss Bockelheimer Kupfergrube Kabinett, Nahe.
Let's try that phonetically: STAHT-litch VIGHN-baow-doh-mane SCHLOHS
BACH-ul-high-mur KOOP-fur-groo-buh KAHB-ee-net NAH-huh. Hard to
say; easy to drink.
The founder of Clos du Bois had a healthy and active sense
of humor when it came time to name his
winery. "Clos" is French for a small enclosed place; "Bois" is
French for woods or forest. The owner's name was Frank Woods, so the delightful
play on words can either be translated as "The Small Enclosure in the
Forest", or "Frank Woods' Little Vineyard".
What's the difference between a Sauvignon Blanc and a Fumé Blanc?
Nothing official in this country, just the winemaker's style. Same
thing for Syrah/Shiraz in America and Australia-Syrah is
connotative of the French Rhone style; Shiraz connotes the Australian
style. But you can call it whatever you wish in the U.S.A., so
I wouldn't trust the name as being either one or the other.
My personal favorite story-sadly, probably apocryphal--- is of
a retailer who bought several
thousand cases of cheap California wine, then named it Chateau Câche-Phlöe.
The symbol on the label was a grape cluster-except the grapes were pennies
and the leaves were crumpled up dollar bills. Phonetically, the name would
be rendered "Cash Flow". Sold pretty respectably, I was told.
Egri Bikaver of Hungary is made near the town of Eger.
The wine, a robust and full-colored red, is named "Bikaver"(Bull's
Blood). A variation on the theme is the Spanish/Catalonian "Sangre
de Toro" from Torres. Again "Blood of the Bull".
On the theme of blood, let's mention that great varietal, Sangiovese,
the "Blood of Jove". And from the French we get the wine
term saigneé, a
process of "bleeding off" a percentage of red wine juice from the
fermenting must to intensify fruit flavors.
As well as blood, eyes feature in wine names. Another name for
the Tempranillo of Spain is Ull de Lebre,"eye of the hare".
Then there's a style of rose called Oeil de Perdrix-"eye of
the partridge".
Gewürztraminer was originally just Traminer. But this
distinctive varietal became so well
known for its aromatic and spicy qualities, it became known as "Spicy
Traminer". "Gewürz" in German means "spicy".
L'Ecole 41 is a small but prized winery in the Walla Walla
appellation of eastern Washington. The
headquarters is a refurbished old country schoolhouse-Schoolhouse 41. "L'Ecole" is
French for school. And the engaging and attractive label features a crayon
drawing of said schoolhouse done by the proud founder's granddaughter.
Chateau Trottevielle, an estate in St. Emilion, is named
after the ancient pathway that winds through the property. "Trotte" =
pathway or walkway. "Vielle" = old.
Wondering which wine would be most apropos for your next tailgate
party at the racetrack? If the
above-mentioned Trottevielle isn't to your taste, then may I suggest the Didier-Dagueneau "Pur
Sang", which may be translated as "pure blood"
.
or, if you wish, "thoroughbred".
The name Amarone, most famous of the red dried grape wines
of Italy, is derived from "Amaro", the
Italian word for bitter. One of the sought after characteristics of this wine
is a slight, refreshing aroma and aftertaste of bitter almonds. A sweeter version
is called Recioto-the name is derived from picking the ripest grapes
off the "ear" of the cluster, the "orechia". For the same
reason, there's a pasta called orechiette; looks like tiny little ears.
The Napa winery Far Niente is derived from the Italian phrase "Dolce
far niente". Loosely translated, that means "How sweet it is to be
without a care." And their dessert wine is the aptly named "Dolce"-Italian
for sweet.
There is a wine called "Lemburger"(or Limburger),
derived from the same town that is renowned for its highly odorous
Limburger cheese. No, the wine doesn't smell like the cheese. Actually,
it's a nice, very drinkable, light to medium bodied red. The best
producers are in Washington state.
Same grape in Austria is called Blaufrankisch (loose translation: French
Blue).
The family of Pinot grapes-Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris--
refers to the characteristic pine-cone shape of the grape clusters. Pinot Noir
(French), Pinot Nero (Italian), Spätburgunder (German) all refer to the
red varietal. Pinot Blanc (French), Pinot Bianco (Italian), Pinot Blanco (Latin),
Pinot Gris (French), Pinot Grigio (Italian) all refer to various white offshoots
of Pinot. "Gris/Grigio" is gray-not for the wine, but for the characteristic
look of the grapes in the vineyards. Years ago Chardonnay was erroneously referred
to as Pinot Chardonnay.
Cain Five is a California Meritage-styled wine which contains
all five major authorized Bordeaux red varieties in the blend.
However, Jekel Vineyards Sanctuary is the only California
Meritage
wine produced from all five Bordeaux reds growing in one estate vineyard site.
The vineyard is
named Sanctuary because it is a tiny valley that gives sanctuary from the high
winds and cold
temperatures of the Salinas Valley floor.
Meritage may have the honor of being the most mispronounced American
wine word. The official pronunciation designated by the Meritage
Society is "MEHR-uh-tij", but almost everyone prefers
the Francophilic version of "mehr-ih-TAHZH". Ironically
appropriate, if you consider that Meritage was created as an American
version of a classic Bordeaux blend
..
In the Campania region of Italy, there are a couple of delicious
wines with interesting names. There's Greco di Tufo (the Greek grape in volcanic soil) and Lachryma Christi (Tears
of Christ).
There's a most dubious story is of a wine-bibbing prelate sending
his emissary to scout out his route to Rome with an order to find
the best inn for wine in each village and mark it Est, "This
is it". The pathfinder purportedly got so excited at one place
he marked the door "Est! EST!! EST!!!" Legend
has it the prelate liked it so much, he stayed and never made it
to Rome
What does a "Fine Champagne Cognac" have in common
with a Champagne sparkling wine? Nothing actually, except the name. "Champagne" is
derived from the Roman word for open field
(campania), and became Champagne in France (as well as the above Campania in
Italy); in
Cognac, Fine Champagne means the grapes are from the open fields rather than
the lower
rated "bois", or wooded land.
The venerable firm of Fratelli Bolla has an interesting collection
of proprietary names for it's Special
Reserve Series of Veneto wines. Their Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico
Ripasso is named after the tiny hawks that nest in the hilltop vineyards. Tufaie Soave
Classico is named for the tufaceous (friable volcanic) soil in that vineyard,
since the terraced vineyard is located entirely on a degraded volcanic cone!
The Colforte Merlot is named after the old fortifications on the hill
(col = hill, forte = fort). The Creso Cabernet Sauvignon is named after
the richest King in antiquity, Croesus. And their Reserve Pinot Grigio is named Arcale -
Arch or Archway.
The region of Apulia (Puglia) in Italy, the "heel of the
boot", is now becoming well known for a
robust and well priced red called Salice Salentino. It's made from a little
known variety called Negroamaro. You already know "amaro" means
bitter. Negro is black, so the grape is "black and bitter". Some
say that's an apt description of the wine as well.
During the glory days of Greece, when toga parties were the norm,
the favorite "parlor game" was kottybos. A simple game, really. Place a large bowl in
the middle of the room, and then have everyone compete by spitting
in the bowl. One assumes distance, accuracy and volume were important.
Most accurate spitter wins. Those old Greeks were pretty sophisticated
guys. And evidently knew how to party. Although it must be said
that it was common practice in Greece to water the wine in polite
society. Of course, the wine was probably deeply concentrated,
thick and sweet. And the Greeks consumed wine as a social lubricant,
not to get drunk. Everything in moderation.
Travelling in Greece? Consider retsina. In pre-bottle days
of the Classic Ages, wine was stored and
carried in goatskin leather bags. Too keep the wine from seeping through the
skin and stitching, the inside of the bag was lined with pitch (resin), which
flavored the wine. The Greeks got used to it; after the bottle came about,
they added the resin to their wine. Retsina. It's an acquired taste.
Interesting names abound in Burgundy. Here's a few with their
derivations:
- Pommard got its name from Pomone, the Goddess of Gardens
and Fruit.
- Pommard Rugiens refers to the deep red color of the
wine.
- The Romans were influential in this area, hence we have St.
Romain and Vosne-Romanee.
- A small vineyard allowed to use the revered Chambertin name
is Griottes-Chambertin. Griottes are wild cherries.
It's all in the accent: gravelly soil is prized in different wine
regions---just pronounced differently:
in Bordeaux, it's Graves (GRAHV). In Burgundy, it's Beaune-Greves (GREHV).
The French love saints' names. Just look at a map and you'll see
hundreds of them. In wine, as well.
The most widespread and frequent is Saint-Martin, the patron saint of
France. You'll also find numerous mention of Saint Vincent as well,
since he's the patron saint of wine (but the French don't usually mention that
Saint Vincent was Spanish).
The irrepressible and talented Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon not
only makes good wine, but uses
some whimsical names as well, more as an hommage than a rip-off. He made a
wine in the style of French Chateauneuf-du-Pape and named it to honor one of
his favorite domaines, Vieux Telegraphe. He named his new world version Old
Telegram. His original effort in the Rhone style was named Le Cigare
Volante, and pictured a cigar shaped flying saucer on the label, alluding
to the French passing a law forbidding flying saucers to land in their vineyards!?!
When it came time to make a rosé version, his obvious choice was "Vin
Gris de Cigare". "Vin Gris" means "grey wine",
but is the French term for a light rose or pink wine. One of his latest efforts
is Il Pescatore ("the fisherman" in Italian), with the label
depicting a fisherman sitting on a dock with his line in the water. And of
course there is the ever-memorable Cardinal Zin.
Talking about Rhones, do we even need to mention Cote Rotie?
The name means "Roasted Slope", for that is precisely
what the place is: an almost barren rocky slope situated on a bend
of the Rhone River and perfectly angled to receive not only the
blast of sunshine from the sky, but the reflection of the sun from
the water as well. Go there during the summer, stand on the slope,
and you'll be roasted too. Makes for excellent wine though. The
respected producer E. Guigal makes a Cote Rotie called "Cotes
des Brune et Blonde". That could be either "Brown and
Blonde", or "The Brunette and the Blond"
..
but I'm not going there.
In Washington state, one of the more popular boutique wineries
is Cavatappi Cellars ("Cavatappi" is corkscrew
in Italian). The label is simple and white, and looks as if a careless
someone sat a glass stained with red wine on the label before it
was glued to the bottle.
In the Columbia Valley of Eastern Washington there is a vineyard named "Ciel
de Cheval", which
is clever since the area the vineyard is located in is known as the Horse Heaven
Hills, referring to the many wild horses that ran free throughout the rolling
hills for countless years. Ciel -sky; cheval -horse. Horse Heaven.
More Germans (what can I say, they've got great names): Several
vineyards are named Jesuitengarten, which translates as
The Jesuits' Garden, or Bischofsgarten (Bishop's) or Nonnengarten (Nun's
Garden). At one time, virtually all vineyards were owned by the
church, so there are naturally many religious names. Not all are
so reverent though. In Winkel there is a vineyard called Hasensprung,
or "leaping rabbit". In Piesport there's the famous Goldtröpfchen, "tiny
drops of gold", and in Trittenheim there's the Apotheke vineyard,
so-called because a long-term owner was a druggist (apothecary).
Then there's Saumagen (Pig's Stomach)-and no, I've never
asked why.
In the Franconia area of Germany near Wurzburg, the traditional
bottle is similar to the familiar Mateus Rosé bottle. But
in Germany it's called a "bocksbeutel", or "goat's
bottle". Before glass, wine carriers were made of goatskin
and were said to resemble a goat's (ahem) private parts.
Back to Italy and one of the grapes from the Piedmont, a light,
cherry-fresh wine called Dolcetto. The name means "little
sweet one", although, curiously enough, the wine is not sweet
at all.
The French have an expression for really bad wine. It's called three-man
wine. It takes three men to drink it: two to hold another
one down and force him to swallow.
Italy was so highly thought of for wine, in early history the
Greeks called it Oenotria, the land of wine.
Think wine is made from grapes? Don't forget wines made from plum,
apricot, peach, pineapple, dates, cherry, blackberry, raspberry,
strawberry, jalapeno (yes, it's true), garlic (yes,
that's true too), dandelion, and watermelon. In
fact any fruit with a little sugar in it can be fermented into
wine. But one should probably ask Why? first.
Notice: This material is under the copywrite of Hoke Harden
and cannot be reproduced without his express permission
Hoke is also the kind contributor of a wonderful set of wine maps
.. you can view them
here
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