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Champagne's Last Grape-harvest of the Century
by
Catherine Thevenin

CHAMPAGNE has just finished it's last grape-harvests of the century, which will no doubt be the best for the last 10 years. Wine regions includes: Montagne de Reims, the Vallee de la Marne and Cote des Blancs.

In order to overcome harsh weather conditions and reap the benefits of the Champagne sub-soil, three types of vines are specially selected for their complementary qualities:

  • the pinot-noir - which gives body and strength
  • the pinot-meunier - a black grape which endows freshness and youth
  • the chardonnay - a white grape which contributes finesse and elegance.

Grape-picking begins at the end of September, about 10 days after the flowering of the vine. The harvesting operations involve a wealth of special precautionary measures found only in this area. Picking is carried out by hand only. The grape bunches are examined one by one and green or damaged grapes are thrown away. A maximum yield per hectare is fixed, ensuring the quality is not threatened by an over-zealous search for quantity.

Pressing is done within hours following the harvest. The grapes are transported with the utmost care, due to their fragility and placed in special wide and low-built presses. The main-objective is to ensure that the juice obtained is not tainted by the skin of the black grapes.

This operation must be carried out rapidly and according to clearly set standards. 4,000 kilos of grapes produce 2,666 litres of juice which can legally bear the name of champagne.

2,666 litres are equivalent to 13 Champagne casks, each containing 205 litres. Of these 13 casks, the first 10 are obtained in 2 or 3 rapid pressings. These are called the "cuvee". Immediately after the pressing operation, the juice flows into what is known as "cuve de debourbage" where it stays for ten or twelve hours, allowing impurities to settle.

The juice is put into casks or vats, bearing the origin of the vineyard, for the first fermentation which will transform the juice into wine. This fermentation lasts several weeks. Then the wine is gradually clarified by repeated decantation throughout the winter. With the arrival of Spring the rituals of Champagne making begins by first preparing the cuvee, which plays an important role in achieving a perfectly balanced Champagne.

According to principles that date back to the 17th century, the cuvee consists of different blendings of still wines bearing the Champagne appellation. They may come from a single vineyard, neighbouring vineyards or even from different vineyards and different years. The objective is to achieve a perfectly harmonious wine created in accordance with tradition

When the harvest is particularly noteworthy, the blending consists of using only wines of that year in order to achieve a Millesime or vintage wine. Most of the cuvees are made up of a combination of wines obtained from both black and wine grapes. Nevertheless, Champagne can be made exclusively from white grapes, in which case it is called a Blanc de Blanc.

Once the cuvee has been completed natural fermenting agents and a small quantity of cane sugar are added in order to facilitate the second fermentation which takes place in a bottle.

Catherine Thevenin, Director - FUGUES EN FRANCE A resident of France, Ms. Thevenin has three passions -- wine, gastronomy, traveling. Formerly a gift and marketing products purchasing agent and seminar coordinator for HewlettPackard France, she started Fugues en France in 1994.

FUGUES EN FRANCE operate tours in Champagne for individuals and small groups for any events: wedding anniversary, new Year Eve, they have a bilingual guide who drives a minibus or a car to take you touring. note..They are also offer expert advise selecting a good brand of champagne... Additionaly, Fugues en France organizes individually tailored high-quality tours, seminars programs and services based on the cultural themes of wine, gastronomy and nature.

Catherine Thevenin FUGUES EN FRANCE 10 rue du Bois Guillaume BP 134 91004 EVRY cedex France Email: fugues@club-internet.fr http://www.bonappetit-france.com

© 1996,97,98,99,2000Art & Betsy Stratemeyer



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