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Wines from Alsace come in bottles shaped in a manner to imply sweetness.
Some are. Most have a captivating crispness to balance out whatever
sweetness is present. often the floral character and the brilliant ripeness
of the fruit can be confused with mere sweetness. These wines are overlooked
in the market place and deserve more attention, especially for food
pairings.

Albert Mann Muscat, Alsace 2001
Price $16
Rating 89
Think wonderful flowers and luscious apricot influence in the nose, then
flavors fully rounded fruit laced with flower petals. Though leaning towards
sweetness, the crisp acidity keeps this wine in perfect balance.

This well regarded Alsace domaine is run by two brothers, Maurice and Jacky
Barthelmé in the village of Wettolsheim, near Colmar. Maurice, who took over
here in 1984, is married to the grand-daughter of the late Albert Mann who
gave his name to the domaine. It's not a huge operation: they have 19
hectares in all, but five of these are in five different Grand Cru vineyards
and a further two are in Lieux-dits. They've taken a quality-minded
approach, and say all the right things about respect for the soil and the
importance of low yields.

Domaine Albert Mann was rated by Robert Parker, Jr.'s The Wine Advocate in
the top tier of Alsace producers, and the Domaine received a "star" rating
in The Classement 2000 by the Revue du Vin de France.

Domaine Josmeyer Riesling "Le Kottabe" Alsace 2001
Price $29
Rating 94
Aromas of green apple and mineral, then flavors of lightly baked green
apple, sexy floral notes and other intriguing white fruit, ending with lemon
crispness.

This venerable, family-run Alsace winery was founded in 1854, and is run
today by Jean Meyer, chairman and general manager. Under Meyer's direction,
Josmeyer is recognized for its large portfolio of wines showcasing the depth
and breadth of the quality wines of Alsace. Meyer is also singled out for
his flair for pairing food and wine in an unconventional fashion.

Domaine Josmeyer Pinot Gris "Le Fromenteau" Alsace 2000
Price $29
Rating 93
Aromas of earthy green apple, spice, baked bread, then flavors of soft ripe
white fruit, limestone, hazelnut and delicate citrus/floral.

"I don't believe I have met another winemaker more capable of pinpointing
and conveying the subtleties of flavor in wine than owner Jean Meyer," wrote
Steve Tanzer in International Wine Cellar. In fact, Meyer readily pairs his
wines with virtually any type of cuisine. "When I'm in Japan, I serve
Japanese food with my wine. In America, I enjoy American cuisine. I always
have a wine to pair, no matter what type of food is served," says Meyer.

Domaine Josmeyer Pinot Auxerrois "H" Alsace 2001
Price $40
Rating 94
Jean Josmeyer has registered the "H" to designate his 50-60 year old
auxerrois vines in his respected Hengst vineyard. Both French and American
ampelographers have determined that the pinot auxerrois grape and chardonnay
are separate clones that share their parentage.

There are aromas of lemon peel, floral and mineral, then flavors of dry
appple and other white fruit with an intriguing nuttiness. The wine has a
rich feel on the palate. For more information, go to
www.paternowines.com/wines/france/josmeyer.

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