Wines from Alsace come in bottles shaped in a manner to imply
sweetness.
Some are. Most have a captivating crispness to balance out whatever
sweetness is present. often the floral character and the brilliant ripeness
of the fruit can be confused with mere sweetness. These wines are overlooked
in the market place and deserve more attention, especially for food
pairings.
Domaine Josmeyer Riesling Hengst "Samain" Grand Cru, Alsace 2000
Price $35 Rating 96 The nose is very intense with floral and candied fruit
notes, the sip
reveals a bone-dry white with big mineral, citrus, fruit and floral
intensities. The length is long and elegant.
This venerable, family-run Alsace winery was founded in 1854, and is run
today by Jean Meyer, chairman and general manager. Under Meyer's direction,
Josmeyer is recognized for its large portfolio of wines showcasing the depth
and breadth of the quality wines of Alsace. Meyer is also singled out for
his flair for pairing food and wine in an unconventional fashion.
Domaine Josmeyer Gewurztraminer "Cuvee des Folastris" Alsace 2001
Price $35
Rating 94
Aromas of rose petals, ginger, spice, and cashew, then flavors of ripe
crenshaw melon, spice, rose/floral, and toasted bread.
"I don't believe I have met another winemaker more capable of pinpointing
and conveying the subtleties of flavor in wine than owner Jean Meyer," wrote
Steve Tanzer in International Wine Cellar. In fact, Meyer readily pairs his
wines with virtually any type of cuisine. "When I'm in Japan, I serve
Japanese food with my wine. In America, I enjoy American cuisine. I always
have a wine to pair, no matter what type of food is served," says Meyer.
For
more information, go to www.paternowines.com/wines/france/josmeyer.
Dom. Schlumberger"Cuvee Anne" Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains,
Alsace
1997
Price $58
Rating 97
Sauternes beware. This precise nectar of the gods may be one of the finest
desert wines in the world. Certainly sweet, surely concentrated and packed
with complexities that boggle the mind. A perfect vintage shown perfectly by
perfect winemaking expertise.
Probably the most famous Alsatian variety, gewurztraminer is native to the
North of Italy, and can be traced back as far as the 16th Century.
Gewurztraminer (literally spicy Traminer) is a selection of the most
aromatic Traminer clones, and became Gewurztraminer around 1950. To learn
more, visit www.domaines-schlumberger.com.
Hugel "Gentil" white blend, Alsace 2001
Price $12
Rating 88
"The current white-wine darling of the wine industry is pinot gris and
Alsace versions are the gold standard. The riesling can be full-bodied,
aromatic, very fruity but quite dry and would serve as a fine replacement
for most chardonnays. The 2001 Hugel "Gentil" is a great introduction
to the
wines of Alsace -- think of it as an Alsace training wine," says Richard
Kinssies, a wine writer for The Seattle Post-Intelligencer.
Gentil offers a luscious blend of the white wine grapes that put Alsace on
the map, though in a quite way since Alsace is ripe for discovery by the
general public. Not dry and not overly sweet, this white is a perfect match
for Fall and Winter holiday foods.
Hugel "Jubilee" Pinot Noir, Alsace 2001
Price $24
Rating 89
Though Alsace, along France's border near Germany, has a limited reputation
for red wine production. This pinot noir competes with other local versions
at higher pricing.
Alsace basked in an unuasual "Indian summer" in the 2001 vintage.
The
perfect October weather contributed to some very seamless wines. The fruit
is not shy and is balanced with crispness. The wines are elegant and true to
the fruit.
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