| For high proof spirits, what is old sometimes becomes new
again, as with Applejack, not to be confused with the breakfast
cereal.
The granddad of this treat would be William Laird, a County
Fife Scotsman, who in 1698 emigrated from Scotland and settled
in Monmouth County, New Jersey. Likely a distiller by trade,
he applied his skills to the most abundant natural resource
available in that area of the New World- apples.
His distillery created what is now known as "Applejack"and flourished
until 1849, when a fire burned the distillery to the ground. Robert Laird,
a fifth generation Laird, re-built the distillery at its current Scobeyville
site. In 1851, expanded commercial production of Applejack began.
"It possesses unbelievable apple flavor." says
Anthony Giglio who writes the Liquids column for Boston Magazine
and is a contributing editor at Wine & Spirits magazine. "It
doesn't remind me at all of Calvados (the French variation)
because it doesn't express any overt heat." He disagrees
with any marketing efforts that compare Applejack as something
similar to a whiskey drink. It indeed may be a smoother alternative
served on the rocks, though.
The Laird family continues their perfected process of making
their Applejack. Tree-ripened apples are carefully selected
at the peak of the apple harvest, in early September to mid-November,
insuring that the quality and sweetness of the apples are
at their peak. The apples are washed, and pressed into apple
juice, then transferred to 20,000 gallon oak fermenter tanks
outside the still site, where the juice is allowed to ferment
naturally. It is then sent to the Laird distillation plant,
no longer in New Jersey, but in the Shenandoah Valley of
Virginia.
The fresh distillate, or Apple Brandy, is cut with pure
water to approximately 130 proof and transferred to 50 gallon
charred oak barrels for aging. All brandy is aged for four
to eight years. This unusually long aging process enhances
the natural apple flavor and aroma.
"I can remember precisely how impressed I was the very
first time I tasted Applejack." recalls Giglio. "I
was reviewing a swanky restaurant called Amanda's in Hoboken,
New Jersey, where a barman named Tom was shaking up beautiful,
caramel-colored martinis that I mistook for manhattans. The
taste of his Apple'tini was simply pure apple flavor without
the fire of a typical apple liqueur, such as Calvados. I
think I had three more Apple'tinis before dinner." We
suspect that the restaurant received a pretty good review.
As with wine, spirits can be paired with particular foods.
Giglio has matched Applejack with savory desserts, such as
pumpkin pie and even apple pie. His reasoning is that Applejack
is not too sweet, and therefore complements desserts perfectly.
Since the late 1600's, the time-honored procedures and standards
have been maintained, and Applejack is a honest American
spirit. To learn more about Laird's Applejack and the family's
other products, go to www.lairdandcompany.com.
|