| There is a movement in Australia that redefines the vinification
and packaging of riesling wine. Usually identified by the taller,
sloped neck bottle, the expectation is that the wine will be
apple-sweet. Although the bottle looks the same, the "Aussies" haved
aimed towards a much drier wine and if that were not enough,
they are testing the addition of a srew-top to the bottle.
Before writing this off as a declaration of cheap and inferior
wine, look and taste further. The screw-top actually costs the
winery more than using the traditional cork. Statistics for cork
finished bottles of wine reveal that as many as five percent
of the wines end up going bad with a tainted flavor due to an
infected cork. A screw-top, though seemingly less sophisticated,
offers advantages to the consumer.
Below are some favorite dry rieslings from South Australia.
Serve these wines with sophisticated foods as the wines are stellar.
Prices are estimated, and with luck plus favorable exhange rates,
the prices could be lower.
St. Hallett, Riesling, Eden Valley/Australia, 2000
Price $12
Rating 91
Lean and mean, or rather limestone and tropical, this brilliant
new world re-definition of an old world grape possesses apple,
lime/citrus and a cleanly crisp complexity. This, as are most
Rieslings from Australia for export, is a delightfully dry white
wine.
St. Hallett founder Bob McLean is a vibrant spokesperson for
his base region, the Barossa, and is a factor in what makes Australia
a world wine force for others regions to contend with.
Dry Australian rieslings always match beautifully with shellfish.
This wine's attitude would work beautifully with shucked oysters
topped in a splash of salsa.
Wynns, Riesling, Coonawarra/Australia, 2000
Price $12
Rating 88
Wynns of the red soiled Coonawarra is famous for powerful red wine. They pull
a surprise with this dry Riesling. Winemaker Sue Hodder is very talented with
all manor of wine.
Visualize an aroma of green apples, delicate limestone, and
a hint of floral. A sip reveals more herbal green apple, that
resounding basis of limestone, along with an intriguing nuance
of apricot pits. Consider boiled shrimp with this wonderful white
wine.
Wynns, Riesling, Coonawarra/Australia, 2001
Price $12
Rating 89
Wynns in the Coonawarra is known for intense red wine. Again, they pull a surprise
with this dry Riesling. Associate wine maker Paul Gordan (of sister winery
Rouge Homme) explains that the secret with Riesling is to plant in sandy soil,
which they manage successfully.
The 2001 vintage Wynns Riesling offers a nose of green apple,
sparkling mineral water, and a nudge of laurel leaf. The sip
resounds with complexly dry herbal green apple. Pair this wine
with freshly shucked oysters on the half shell, or any simple
and fun food on your menu. Actually this wine requires no food
to enjoy.
Penfolds, Riesling, Eden Valley/Australia, 2001
Price $14
Rating 90
A sniff rewards the drinker with green apple, pear, and a bit of peach. This
is deceiving in that a sip reveals a lean mineral driven wine laced with crisp
lime flavours along with an earthy middle. This is a dry Riesling.
Penfolds is one of the most dependable sources for Australian
wine. The wine's lean appeal could be directed to a seafood dish
in a lusty cream sauce, perhaps scallops or prawns.
Peter Lehmann, Riesling, Barossa/Australia, 2001
Price $14
Rating 88
The Peter Lehman label boasts the face of a queen from a deck of cards. Lehman
is a vineyard and grower driven wine producer and the result can be a risk-taking
wine. This is a very dry Riesling and represents what this Germanic grape may
aspire to in this new century of wine making.
A sniff offers limestone and green apple. A sip reinforces the
green apple but adds a mineral angle apparent in many Australian
Rieslings. Try this wine with a simple pasta dish topped with
an olive oil and citrus directed sauce.
Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley/Australia, 1999
Price $13
Rating 89
This wine may not export to every location. It is worth looking for, in that
the aroma is a uniquely delicate floral. A welcome sip resounds with big limestone
and mineral elements resulting in an austere and delicate wine in regards to
fruit flavours. This dry Riesling finishes with a salute to the ever-popular
Granny Smith apple.
For fun, serve this wine with simply sautéed, lean wedges
of pork loin accompanied in the same pan with sautéed
green apple slices.
Leasingham, Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia, 2001
Price $10
Rating 90
A spicier sort of wine, the Leasingham Riesling counters with a dusting of
cinnamon along with the expected green apple. There is freshness and herbal
complexity.
The wine's spice could work with wasabi and heat driven sushi,
or simply popcorn and a good movie rental.
Mount Horrock, "Watervale" Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia,
2000
Price $24
Rating 93
Both the Mount Horrock and Grosset wines are linked closely within the Clare
Valley region, known as premiere dry Riesling producers. In addition their
corresponding principals are linked as a romantic couple. Talk about a match
made in wine heaven.
The Mount Horrock "Watervale" riesling reveals a delicate
aroma of lime blossom with other floral, and the expected limestone.
A sip rewards with honeysuckle and soft hazelnut, all within
the green apple and lime/citrus meld.
Grosset, "Polish Hill" Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia,
2000
Price $25
Rating 94
This could be the finest Riesling from Australia. Delicately dry and laced
with honeysuckle floral, the aroma is grounded with limestone and lime. A sip
shares bright citrus, especially lime. The Grosset "Polish Hill" brilliantly
sparkles with clean, crisp citrus brightness.
Though exported, this wine can be tough to find both in Australia
and your local shop. Keep eyes open because some shops and their
patrons will not be aware of this find, even if under their noses.
This wine deserves to be on the center stage with food that does
not distract, perhaps some hard Tuscan cheese that is thinly
sliced.
Pikes, Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia, 2001
Price $12
Rating 90
Pikes is a true family winery. They produce a textbook Australian dry Riesling
that is packed with subtle apple, lime/citrus as well as limestone/mineral,
along with a bit of mint. Try this wine with simple chicken or tuna salad on
a sandwich of crispy French bread.
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