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There is a movement in Australia that redefines the vinification and packaging of riesling wine. Usually identified by the taller, sloped neck bottle, the expectation is that the wine will be apple-sweet. Although the bottle looks the same, the "Aussies" haved aimed towards a much drier wine and if that were not enough, they are testing the addition of a srew-top to the bottle.

Before writing this off as a declaration of cheap and inferior wine, look and taste further. The screw-top actually costs the winery more than using the traditional cork. Statistics for cork finished bottles of wine reveal that as many as five percent of the wines end up going bad with a tainted flavor due to an infected cork. A screw-top, though seemingly less sophisticated, offers advantages to the consumer.

Below are some favorite dry rieslings from South Australia. Serve these wines with sophisticated foods as the wines are stellar. Prices are estimated, and with luck plus favorable exhange rates, the prices could be lower.

St. Hallett, Riesling, Eden Valley/Australia, 2000
Price $12
Rating 91

Lean and mean, or rather limestone and tropical, this brilliant new world re-definition of an old world grape possesses apple, lime/citrus and a cleanly crisp complexity. This, as are most Rieslings from Australia for export, is a delightfully dry white wine.

St. Hallett founder Bob McLean is a vibrant spokesperson for his base region, the Barossa, and is a factor in what makes Australia a world wine force for others regions to contend with.

Dry Australian rieslings always match beautifully with shellfish. This wine's attitude would work beautifully with shucked oysters topped in a splash of salsa.

Wynns, Riesling, Coonawarra/Australia, 2000
Price $12
Rating 88
Wynns of the red soiled Coonawarra is famous for powerful red wine. They pull a surprise with this dry Riesling. Winemaker Sue Hodder is very talented with all manor of wine.

Visualize an aroma of green apples, delicate limestone, and a hint of floral. A sip reveals more herbal green apple, that resounding basis of limestone, along with an intriguing nuance of apricot pits. Consider boiled shrimp with this wonderful white wine.

Wynns, Riesling, Coonawarra/Australia, 2001
Price $12
Rating 89
Wynns in the Coonawarra is known for intense red wine. Again, they pull a surprise with this dry Riesling. Associate wine maker Paul Gordan (of sister winery Rouge Homme) explains that the secret with Riesling is to plant in sandy soil, which they manage successfully.

The 2001 vintage Wynns Riesling offers a nose of green apple, sparkling mineral water, and a nudge of laurel leaf. The sip resounds with complexly dry herbal green apple. Pair this wine with freshly shucked oysters on the half shell, or any simple and fun food on your menu. Actually this wine requires no food to enjoy.

Penfolds, Riesling, Eden Valley/Australia, 2001
Price $14
Rating 90
A sniff rewards the drinker with green apple, pear, and a bit of peach. This is deceiving in that a sip reveals a lean mineral driven wine laced with crisp lime flavours along with an earthy middle. This is a dry Riesling.

Penfolds is one of the most dependable sources for Australian wine. The wine's lean appeal could be directed to a seafood dish in a lusty cream sauce, perhaps scallops or prawns.

Peter Lehmann, Riesling, Barossa/Australia, 2001
Price $14
Rating 88
The Peter Lehman label boasts the face of a queen from a deck of cards. Lehman is a vineyard and grower driven wine producer and the result can be a risk-taking wine. This is a very dry Riesling and represents what this Germanic grape may aspire to in this new century of wine making.

A sniff offers limestone and green apple. A sip reinforces the green apple but adds a mineral angle apparent in many Australian Rieslings. Try this wine with a simple pasta dish topped with an olive oil and citrus directed sauce.

Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley/Australia, 1999
Price $13
Rating 89
This wine may not export to every location. It is worth looking for, in that the aroma is a uniquely delicate floral. A welcome sip resounds with big limestone and mineral elements resulting in an austere and delicate wine in regards to fruit flavours. This dry Riesling finishes with a salute to the ever-popular Granny Smith apple.

For fun, serve this wine with simply sautéed, lean wedges of pork loin accompanied in the same pan with sautéed green apple slices.

Leasingham, Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia, 2001
Price $10
Rating 90
A spicier sort of wine, the Leasingham Riesling counters with a dusting of cinnamon along with the expected green apple. There is freshness and herbal complexity.

The wine's spice could work with wasabi and heat driven sushi, or simply popcorn and a good movie rental.

Mount Horrock, "Watervale" Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia, 2000
Price $24
Rating 93
Both the Mount Horrock and Grosset wines are linked closely within the Clare Valley region, known as premiere dry Riesling producers. In addition their corresponding principals are linked as a romantic couple. Talk about a match made in wine heaven.

The Mount Horrock "Watervale" riesling reveals a delicate aroma of lime blossom with other floral, and the expected limestone. A sip rewards with honeysuckle and soft hazelnut, all within the green apple and lime/citrus meld.

Grosset, "Polish Hill" Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia, 2000
Price $25
Rating 94
This could be the finest Riesling from Australia. Delicately dry and laced with honeysuckle floral, the aroma is grounded with limestone and lime. A sip shares bright citrus, especially lime. The Grosset "Polish Hill" brilliantly sparkles with clean, crisp citrus brightness.

Though exported, this wine can be tough to find both in Australia and your local shop. Keep eyes open because some shops and their patrons will not be aware of this find, even if under their noses. This wine deserves to be on the center stage with food that does not distract, perhaps some hard Tuscan cheese that is thinly sliced.

Pikes, Riesling, Clare Valley/Australia, 2001
Price $12
Rating 90
Pikes is a true family winery. They produce a textbook Australian dry Riesling that is packed with subtle apple, lime/citrus as well as limestone/mineral, along with a bit of mint. Try this wine with simple chicken or tuna salad on a sandwich of crispy French bread.

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