| "The Champagne region is about
90 miles east from Paris. It is an easy day trip," explained
Alexis Bespaloff, moderator for an important Champagne seminar during
the Sante Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta and former wine columnist for
New York and Elle. He focused upon the artistry of blending. "The
base wines for Champagne, when tasted before blending, are counter-intuitive.
The bubbles, which come later, will eventually raise the aromas
of the wine. Also they emphasize any faults that are present. You
want consistency of quality and consistency of the house style."
"Vintage Champagne happens only five or six times out of
a decade," concludes Bespaloff. That's something to drink
about.
Besserat de Bellefon "Cuvee des Moines" Brut Champagne
N.V.
Price $39
Rating 90
The Champagnes of Besserat de Bellefon are served at Alain Ducasse
restaurants in Paris and New York, as well as at Charlie Trotter's
in Chicago. They are found in the world's finest restaurants and
are well known in France. America has not yet fully appreciated
Besserat de Bellefon. A little time will change that.
Besserat de Bellefon "Cuvee des Moines" Rose Brut Champagne
N.V.
Price $48
Rating 91
Their extraordinary Champagnes provide the basis on which Besserat
de Bellefon has garnered its reputation. With "Cuvée
des Moines", Besserat de Bellefon introduces a unique balance
that is fresh and elegant. These wines are very ladylike, rather
than brawny.
Besserat de Bellefon "Cuvee des Moines" Blanc de Blanc
Brut Champagne N.V.
Price $39
Rating 90
The extremely light froth is the result of a subtle, lower than
normal dosage, giving the wine lighter pressure and a discrete
mousse with a "creamy" appearance. The exceptionally
light and fine bubbles in these champagnes will ensure that "Cuvée
des Moines" is widely recommended to perfectly match food
throughout the meal. One match could be delicate Vietnamese spring
rolls. Another might be duck ala'orange. Don't rule out a greasy,
thick hamburger.
Bollinger Special Cuvée, Champagne N.V.
Price $48
Rating 90
The house of Bollinger considers this wine to be the purest expression
of their definitive style. There is both power along with delicate
finesse. This special wine is generally 60% pinot noir (for vinosity
and complexity), 25% chardonnay (for finesse), and 15% pinot meunier
(for freshness). Bollinger is only one of very few Champagne houses
that still selects to age the initial wine in oak barrels, achieving
a more assertive flavor profile.
Bollinger Grande Année, Champagne 1995
Price $95
Rating 90
The name "Grande Année" communicates that this
was a great vintage according to Bollinger, not something that
happens every year. Harvested exclusively from Champagne's grands
and premiers cru vineyards, derived from the cuvée (the
first grape pressing), the wine exhibits the classic house style.
There are powerful flavors that are offshoots of the second fermentation
yeast, along with assertive notes of toasted nuts and bright citrus.
This wine is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay.
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