Chardonnays, sometimes with their oak elements and butteriness, can be the biggest of the white wines. These, below, run the spectrum.

Geyser Peak Winery Chardonnay, Russian River 2003

Price $19.99

Rating 92

Big flavors lead the way. There is oak, pear, apple, butter and spice. All are balanced and result in a complex white wine. Darryl Groom, the head of winery operations, suggests pairing this wine with "shellfish, grilled pork and pasta with cream sauces." The wine's crisp acidity makes it a natural match with many styles of food. Find out more at www.geyserpeakwinery.com.

R.H. Phillips "Toasted Head" Chardonnay, Russian River 2003

Price $18

Rating 90

This white wine is very buttery with an ample amount of oak barrel involvement. This critic feels that the butter complexities are at the expense of crisp acidity in the wine. But if you like soft butter elements, then you will love this Chardonnay. The fruit is extremely ripe with elements of cooked pear, along with notes of caramel and vanilla. Visit their website at www.toastedhead.com.

Long Vineyards Chardonnay, Napa 2001

Price $28

Rating 96

To this reviewer, an almost perfect California Chardonnay, the sip begins with tropical crispness. The oak (Francois Freres of France ) is complex and well within balance with the fruit. Nuances of hazelnut and toast come from these barrels. " Concentration and complexity are the hallmarks of these old vineyards," boasts winemaker Bob Long. "The Chardonnay clones exhibit six different characters: spicy ripe apple, white peach, lemon citrus, golden delicious apple, and citrus/muscat. This aromatic complexity harmonizes with the mineral expression associated with this distinctive mountain vineyard."

In 1977, when Bob and Zelma Long started the winery, they produced one of Napa Valley 's first barrel-fermented Chardonnays. Since 1978, Long has produced one of California's best 'botrytis' Rieslings; 1979-1993 Cabernet Sauvignon from U.C.Davis Oakville Experimental Vineyard; in 1981 California's first barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc blended with Chardonnay; and in 1992 Napa Valley's first Pinot Grigio. This small winery has been a pace-setter for California . Indeed , there is more information at www.longvineyards.com.

Rodney Strong Chardonnay "Chalk Hill Vineyard" Sonoma 2002

Price $19

Rating 94

The nose offers lean, tropical lime. It is well in balance with the oak elements and the wine's lean crispness. The acidic and complex nature of this restrained Chardonnay makes it almost perfect for any food pairing.

" Barrel fermentation in new and seasoned French oak added toasty vanilla and spice complexities, and during 10 months of barrel ageing, we regularly stirred the 'lees' in barrel, which gives a certain fullness and creamy texture on the palate," explains wine maker Rick Sayre. "Encouraging malolactic fermentation added additional character, and in the glass the wine is both creamy and crisp, with abundant fruit character, mineral, and toasty oak flavors."

The establishment of the Chalk Hill appellation was spearheaded by founder Rod Strong in 1983. Rod planted the original Chalk Hill Vineyard in 1971, and released the first "Chalk Hill Vineyard" designated wine in 1978. He recognized the region as distinct from the rest of Russian River Valley for the unique chalky white soils, which impart a subtle mineral character to wines grown there. Visit www.rodneystrong.com for more details.

Matua Valley Chardonnay, Gisborne 2003

Price $12

Rating 89

Exotic aromas of pineapple, peach, mango and apricot lead the way. This white wine is classic-New Zealand tart and refreshing. There is a fairly vibrant acidic balance and length in the mouth. Minerality is along in the finish.

Winemaker Corey Hall suggests pairing this wine with "lemon and coriander chicken served with grilled stone fruits on saffron rice."

Acacia Chardonnay, Carneros 2003

Price $20

Rating 90

Acacia was one of the early wineries to firmly secure the recognition of Carneros as a prime area for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Carneros is a shared junction between the southern tips of Napa and Sonoma , bordered by San Pablo Bay to the south. These grapes do well with the influence of fog and the bay's coolness.

" The vibrant aromas of this wine combine sweet creme brulee with ginger, lemon curd, fennel and peach," suggests wine maker Anthony King. "The wine's creamy entry blossoms to a full, sweet, peach and citrus mid-palate. The finish is long with vanilla, roasted oats and nectarine flavors."

Chrispness along with luscious Chardonnay fruit flavors combine to become the Acacia Carneros' calling card.  Acacia winery chef Kevin Simonson likes to match the creamy texture and savory elements of this Chardonnay with roasted chicken stuffed with goat cheese and crimini mushrooms. Serve with a warm pancetta, red onion and bulgur salad. More information is at www.chalonewinegroup.com.