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Darryl Beeson
"
Wine and More"

Cockburn's Port- An Overview (part one)

Cockburn's (Coh-burns) was founded in 1815 and has become the largest
vineyard owner in the Port district. Their Cockburn's Special Reserve
bottling is the most popular premium brand of Port in the world. This being
said, their vintage Ports have somehow been lost in the shuffle of media
recognition and collector understanding.

Authentic Port comes only form the Douro (durr-oh) River Valley, located in
the northeast portion of Portugal, an area with rugged, inhospitable climate
and terrain perfectly suited for the making of this fortified sweet red
wine. Winters can bring severe frost while summers are long, dry and hot.
Vines grow from a rock called schist, which sometimes must be shattered with
dynamite before planting can begin. Because of the land's steepness,
vineyards must be dramatically terraced to accommodate the steepness.
Vintage Ports are bottled unfiltered and should be decanted to separate the
sediment.

Cockburns Port "Quinta dos Canais" Douro 1999
Price $55
Rating 95
The color is dark like purple ink. There are aromas of spiced blackberry and
pine resin, then flavors of rich plum/blackberry with menthol and black
pepper in the hot finish. This now young Port will show well with ten years
from the vintage under its belt, and at its best in a few decades.

Cockburns Port, Douro 2000
Price $65
Rating 95
Dark ink-like color with aromas of jammy black fruit dusted in black pepper,
then flavors of black fruit laced in menthol/mint and tary black pepper.
Port from this incredible vintage will take time to be fully approachable,
and at least a quarter century to begin exhibiting its finest elements.

Cockburns Port "Quinta dos Canais" Duoro 2000
Price $55
Rating 97
Dark, inky color with a spiced nose of concentrated black fruit with black
pepper, then flavors of velvety, jammy fruit with notes of praline/raisin,
rich chocolate and crisp, spiced orange.

Cockburns Port "Quinta dos Canais" Duoro 2001
Price $55
Rating 96
Dark, inky color boasting aromas of chocolate covered black cherry and
chocolate covered nuts with spiced orange and delicate caramel, then flavors
of spicy blackberry packed with orange/citrus and lots of black pepper. Very
spicy and openly vibrant, this young Port is surprisingly very approachable.

Cockburn's Fine Ruby, Duoro NV
Price $12
Rating 85
Ruby Port is the simple, fun version of this sometimes ponderous sweet and
fortified red wine. Classically, it is enjoyed after meals though the French
enjoy ruby Port before the meal as an aperitif. The Cockburn's Fine Ruby
demonstrates cleanness, good fruit concentration and a little finesse. The
flavors boast loads of red fruit, especially strawberries. Pair this wine
with smoked ham (Jambon Iberico), a pate or foie gras, or even a main course
such as roast duck in a sweeter fruit-based sauce.

Cockburn's Fine Tawny, Douro NV
Price $12
Rating 87
The nose offers notes of toffee. The amber, tawny color is inviting. This is
a very affordable way to discover the excitement of finer Port. Classically,
it is enjoyed after meals though the French enjoy ruby Port before the meal
as an aperitif. Pair this wine with all manner of cheese, especially the
blue types such as Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola. For dessert, this
sweet wine gravitates towards chocolate cake, apple pie and creme brulee.
While watching a movie or television, match this wine with simple almonds or
pecans.

Cockburn's "Special Reserve" Douro NV
Price $16
Rating 89
The Cockburn's "Special Reserve" is what is known in Portugal as a Vintage
Character Port, so-called because it is manufactured and barrel aged in a
way to remind the drinker of more expensive and rare Vintage Ports. This
wine captures and showcases the house style of Cockburn's- beautiful
finesse, crisp acidity and less sweetness than other Port producers. Note
the ripe red fruit flavors that are dusted in intriguing spice. There is a
long and complex, relatively dry finish in this sweet, fortified red. Pair
this wine with fresh strawberries, roasted nuts or pieces broken off from a
bar of dark chocolate. Any blue cheese, especially Stilton, would be a
classic match.

Cockburn's 20 Year Old Tawny, Douro NV
Price $50
Rating 90
The color is vibrant and gold, indicating a well aged Port. A sniff reveals
aromatic nuttiness. The sip offers a complex array of ripe, complex fruit
flavors. There is freshness balanced by what the British call grip, that
being tannic structure. Try this mature tawny with a special cigar, or with
the one you love, possibly without the cigar then.

Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawny, Douro NV
Price $30
Rating 89
The color is light tawny, thus the name. The nose is balance with fruit,
crispness and soft, complex nuttiness. The flavors are delicate and
inviting. This Port is not cloying and can be enjoyed alone, with a good
smoke, a challenging crossword puzzle, or with tapa-like snacks. The
Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawny is blended from older, mature wines aged in
large barrels, then refreshed with the addition of younger more vibrant
wines. The "indicated age" is a calculated average of all of the Port wines
in the mix. This method assures a consistent style.

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© Darryl Beeson


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