Cockburn's (Coh-burns) was founded
in 1815 and has become the largest
vineyard owner in the Port district. Their Cockburn's Special Reserve
bottling is the most popular premium brand of Port in the world.
This being
said, their vintage Ports have somehow been lost in the shuffle
of media
recognition and collector understanding.
Authentic Port comes only form the Douro (durr-oh) River Valley,
located in
the northeast portion of Portugal, an area with rugged, inhospitable
climate
and terrain perfectly suited for the making of this fortified
sweet red
wine. Winters can bring severe frost while summers are long, dry
and hot.
Vines grow from a rock called schist, which sometimes must be
shattered with
dynamite before planting can begin. Because of the land's steepness,
vineyards must be dramatically terraced to accommodate the steepness.
Vintage Ports are bottled unfiltered and should be decanted to
separate the
sediment.
Cockburns Port "Quinta dos Canais" Douro 1999
Price $55
Rating 95
The color is dark like purple ink. There are aromas of spiced
blackberry and
pine resin, then flavors of rich plum/blackberry with menthol
and black
pepper in the hot finish. This now young Port will show well with
ten years
from the vintage under its belt, and at its best in a few decades.
Cockburns Port, Douro 2000
Price $65
Rating 95
Dark ink-like color with aromas of jammy black fruit dusted in
black pepper,
then flavors of black fruit laced in menthol/mint and tary black
pepper.
Port from this incredible vintage will take time to be fully approachable,
and at least a quarter century to begin exhibiting its finest
elements.
Cockburns Port "Quinta dos Canais" Duoro 2000
Price $55
Rating 97
Dark, inky color with a spiced nose of concentrated black fruit
with black
pepper, then flavors of velvety, jammy fruit with notes of praline/raisin,
rich chocolate and crisp, spiced orange.
Cockburns Port "Quinta dos Canais" Duoro 2001
Price $55
Rating 96
Dark, inky color boasting aromas of chocolate covered black cherry
and
chocolate covered nuts with spiced orange and delicate caramel,
then flavors
of spicy blackberry packed with orange/citrus and lots of black
pepper. Very
spicy and openly vibrant, this young Port is surprisingly very
approachable.
Cockburn's Fine Ruby, Duoro NV
Price $12
Rating 85
Ruby Port is the simple, fun version of this sometimes ponderous
sweet and
fortified red wine. Classically, it is enjoyed after meals though
the French
enjoy ruby Port before the meal as an aperitif. The Cockburn's
Fine Ruby
demonstrates cleanness, good fruit concentration and a little
finesse. The
flavors boast loads of red fruit, especially strawberries. Pair
this wine
with smoked ham (Jambon Iberico), a pate or foie gras, or even
a main course
such as roast duck in a sweeter fruit-based sauce.
Cockburn's Fine Tawny, Douro NV
Price $12
Rating 87
The nose offers notes of toffee. The amber, tawny color is inviting.
This is
a very affordable way to discover the excitement of finer Port.
Classically,
it is enjoyed after meals though the French enjoy ruby Port before
the meal
as an aperitif. Pair this wine with all manner of cheese, especially
the
blue types such as Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola. For dessert,
this
sweet wine gravitates towards chocolate cake, apple pie and creme
brulee.
While watching a movie or television, match this wine with simple
almonds or
pecans.
Cockburn's "Special Reserve" Douro NV
Price $16
Rating 89
The Cockburn's "Special Reserve" is what is known in
Portugal as a Vintage
Character Port, so-called because it is manufactured and barrel
aged in a
way to remind the drinker of more expensive and rare Vintage Ports.
This
wine captures and showcases the house style of Cockburn's- beautiful
finesse, crisp acidity and less sweetness than other Port producers.
Note
the ripe red fruit flavors that are dusted in intriguing spice.
There is a
long and complex, relatively dry finish in this sweet, fortified
red. Pair
this wine with fresh strawberries, roasted nuts or pieces broken
off from a
bar of dark chocolate. Any blue cheese, especially Stilton, would
be a
classic match.
Cockburn's 20 Year Old Tawny, Douro NV
Price $50
Rating 90
The color is vibrant and gold, indicating a well aged Port. A
sniff reveals
aromatic nuttiness. The sip offers a complex array of ripe, complex
fruit
flavors. There is freshness balanced by what the British call
grip, that
being tannic structure. Try this mature tawny with a special cigar,
or with
the one you love, possibly without the cigar then.
Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawny, Douro NV
Price $30
Rating 89
The color is light tawny, thus the name. The nose is balance with
fruit,
crispness and soft, complex nuttiness. The flavors are delicate
and
inviting. This Port is not cloying and can be enjoyed alone, with
a good
smoke, a challenging crossword puzzle, or with tapa-like snacks.
The
Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawny is blended from older, mature wines
aged in
large barrels, then refreshed with the addition of younger more
vibrant
wines. The "indicated age" is a calculated average of
all of the Port wines
in the mix. This method assures a consistent style.
|