Chester Osborn did so. Looking more like a "roadie" for a rock band than a winemaker from the McClaren Vale of Australia, Osborn won praises with the wines from his family's winery d'Arenberg. D'Arenberg's focus is not Australia's lovely shiraz grape, but the grenache made famous in France's southern Rhone region.

"My great-grandfather bought the vineyards in 1912. He was in horse racing and had been with the famous Australian wine producer, Hardys." explains Osborn, "We basket press everything including the whites, all wines are barrel finished with no fining or filtering of the juice." The basket press is an antiquated fashion of crushing grapes for juice, by fewer and fewer Australian wine producers.

Antique methods and equipment makes sense when considering that the vines average in ages from 80-120 years old. These feeble vines produce tiny productions that are packed with immense character and complexity.

"Australia is kidney shaped, and the McClaren Vale is in the adrenal part," jokes Osborn, "more affected by the coast. Though quite hot days, after five p.m. there are strong cold air winds and by seven p.m. you need a jumper (a warm coat)." By morning, in fact, the temperature can be 45 degrees Fahrenheit. This allows the old vine's grapes to amass great fruit concentrations and to enter a hibernation-like state each night, preserving the richness.

The soils of the d'Arenberg vineyards are classic bright red "terra rosa" mixed with limestone. This ground would be near impossible for producing table grapes, but its harsh severity stresses the old vines to achieve remarkable power and concentration in the wine.

The bad news is that d'Arenberg's production is limited, especially for their cult-followed "The Dead Arm" shiraz, "The Coppermine Road" cabernet sauvignon, "The Ironstone Pressings" blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvedre, all vintaged 1998 and priced at around $65 per bottle. The good news is that they produce a wonderful proprietary white and red for around $11, which is produced in ample supplies. "The Stump Jump" McClaren Vale, 1999, a blend of grenache and shiraz, is a delightful red with a range of complexities not expected for the price. "The Stump Jump" McClaren Vale, 2000, a blend of riesling and marsanne is a pleasant white, moderately dry and well suited for wonderful summertime drinking.

Historians may be aware that the d-apostrophe before a last name indicates a bastard. "D'Arenberg's ancestry is that of a bastard." admits Osborn, "Basically back in France the maid slept with an Arenberg, the resulting son was forced to marry a niece of Napoleon. This son, while drunk, challenged the rightful Arenberg heir to a duel and killed him. The son quickly departed to safety in Scotland, teaching languages at the university level. Later the family ended up in Australia."

"Australia has been home to many bastards." chuckles Osborn. This attitude is part of the reason that Chester Osborn stole the show at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. To attend next June, act quickly since the event sells out quickly. Information can be obtained in Food & Wine Magazine, or by calling 212-383-5600. Website info is at www.foodandwine.com.