The Hitching Post II is a literal offspring of the Santa Maria-style barbecue restaurant in Casmalia, staked-out by Frank and Natalie Ostini in 1952 and now still operated by their children. Casmalia is also known for a toxic waste dump. Sometimes, while dining at the original Hitching Post, the aromas of the dump, ala home hair perm application overwhelmed the aromas of the honestly grilled meat and fish. A son, Frank Ostini, opened the Buellton steakhouse in 1986 and turned this Hitching Post into the Central California destination for food and wine lovers from throughout the world.

"Last night, I was there and at the next table was Richard and Thekla Sanford, owners of Sanford Winery." says Au Bon Climate founder Jim Clendenen, "I was dining with the Belgium sommelier of Alain Ducasse at the Essex House in Manhattan, Gerard Margeon. We debated merely the fries. He said that these are perfect pommes frites. Gerard said that the French do not know pommes frites. These are pommes frites." Blanched in beef lard, then fried a la minute in hot, lustier fat, they demonstrate Frank Ostini's attention to detail. The ketchup is laced with Pepper Plant, a vinegary local hot sauce. Find that in France or Belgium.

The filet is the thing, as Shakespeare once said. Don't let the dirt lot for parking confuse you. This destination surpasses many big-city steak houses for procurement of the finest meats, be they ostrich, top sirloin, bone-in Kansas City strip, Australian lobster tail, duck, three local fish selections, chicken, quail, or what have you. The growing French three-star cliental has ushered in the introduction of a Franco-inspired hanger steak. In Texas, where this writer is from, hanger steak is referred to as fajita in a holding pattern.

Whatever, people often oft for a dual mixed grill. Rarely does the mix increase, unless you know the chef personally. This is chemistry on the plate via fire. Frank Ostini, over the past decade has achieved a command as as saucier and is very capable of making inspired sauces.

The prices are modest. "My normal meal is to split the fresh, local artichoke appetizer ($6) for two and then we both have the filet with french fries which are included. There's none of this paying extra for a side vegetable at the Hitching Post," says Clendenen. Two people get out the door for around $50 plus tip and wine. Save room for desserts. The original location merely offered ice cream. Number two offers a complex array.

Local wine professional Chris Burroughs tells a story of dining there and upon conclusion finding that his car wouldn't start. Other patrons tried to assist with jumper cables. Finally Ostini gave Burroughs his car keys, telling him to take the restaurant owner's car. They could work out the details the next day.

Ostini is listed on the menu as chef and winemaker. How many restaurants can boast an in-house winemaker? Over the past decade, Ostini and his winemaking partner, commercial fisherman Gray Hartley, were tenants at Au Bon Climat winery in Santa Maria Valley. Last year, the two began renting a larger facility nearby, where they make The Hitching Post wines. They have no vineyard holdings. Rather, they purchase grapes, some from the important Bien Nacido and the Sanford & Benedict vineyards. The relationship between fine food, fine wine and local ingredients is immense at the Hitching Post II (406 E. Highway 246, Buellton, California, 805-688-0676).