| To a non-wine type, André
Tchelistcheff is an unlikely name to be credited with leading California
wine into world-class status.
Tchelistcheff was born a century ago to a noble family in Moscow.
After his family was forced into exile by the Bolshevik Revolution
in 1917, he became an officer in the White Russian infantry. Left
for dead, half frozen in the snow banked battlefield, luckily
he was later found and miraculously saved.
In his thirties, he studied at the Institut National Agronomique
in Paris and showed remarkable talent. Napa based Georges de Latour,
patriarch of Beaulieu Vineyard visited the Institut, meeting André
briefly. Tchelistcheff was conducting research in fermentation
science, a subject that he would later say was at the time, "absolutely
foreign to California..scientifically, phonetically, or philosophically."
In 1938, André arrived to Napa where he remained a "text"-patriot,
sharing his knowledge within the Californian wine industry, all
the while further establishing Beaulieu Vineyard as a quality
leader.
Beaulieu Vineyard's founder, Georges de Latour, was a man of
certain influence and vision. He shrewdly kept B. V. wines afloat
during prohibition by gaining status with the Catholic Church
as one of the few designated sources of sacramental wine. Legend
is that availability of sacramental wine created a marked increase
of church attendance during prohibition.
André Tchelistcheff was a visible force in California
wine till his death in 1994. At an age when many embrace retirement,
André bought a new yellow 240Z sports car. Putting well
over 200,000 miles on the car as he drove from one consultation
job to another until he finally totaled the car, rolling three
times, in 1988.
André was one of the first "flying winemakers",
offering expertise to wineries in destinations such as Texas and
Washington state, not to mention world regions such Italy's Tuscany.
His students include the present winemakers of stellar operations
such as Jordan and Rodney Strong, both of Sonoma. He died in 1994,
still active in winemaking.
A statue honoring André Tchelistcheff has been commissioned
and will be dedicated on the grounds of Beaulieu Vineyard this
summer. The statue is scaled at slightly larger than life, sort
of like André.
Celebrating what would have been André's one hundredth
birthday, Beaulieu Vineyard hosted an intimate dinner, opening
B.V. wines dating back to 1942, to which this writer was luckily
invited. André's spry widow, Dorothy, was
present along with a roll call list of great California winemakers,
including Joel Aiken, André's present successor at B.V.
Overall the wines were as graceful and spirited as André's
widow.
Many of the finest Beaulieu Vineyard wines from this rare cellar
showcasing are listed below. All be it academic to read, as the
wines are almost impossible to find, feel free to work a reference
into conversation to impress your friends.
An example, when you open the current release of B.V.'s Coastal
Pinot Noir (around $10), comment that "It is no B.V. "Beaumont"
Pinot 1946 (one of André's lifetime favorites), but we
like it." That may cause a jaw or two to drop.
1946 "Beaumont", Napa Valley- dusty, spiced tea, allspice,
and clove aromas, clean red fruit flavors fully alive, complex
and not showing its age, orange rind, cherry tomato, like dark
bread dipped in mature Burgundy wine, raspberry/cashew at the
end ("André always talked about this wine," says
Aiken, "and I finally was able to try it in the early '90's.")
Score: 93
2000 "Maestro", Carneros- resounding, jammy red fruit
and black cherry aromas, tastes lean, meaty and earthily spiced
("...only bottled a month before this tasting,"explains
Aiken, "there are nonetheless delicate flavors of red and
black cherry, a small hint of allspice/cinnamon, and some delicate
ash complexity from the oak.")
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