The following two sauvignon blancs ( fume blanc is the same grape) are definately styled in a California way and are great substitutes for chardonnay, going well with richer, even grilled foods.

Grgich Hills Fume Blanc, Napa 2001
Price $27
Rating 90
Aromas of melon and herbs, followed by vibrant lemon and herbal flavors with a rich, sherbet like concentration.

Wine maker Ivo Jeramaz was born into a Croatian family of grape growers, one being his uncle Mike Grgich, and from an early age assisted in making wine for his family's enjoyment. As a young man, he attended the University of Zagreb where he earned a master of science degree in engineering.

"The wine has an attractive, pale yellow straw color and is brilliantly clear," observes Jeramaz. "Beneath the aromas of honey and jasmine you will discover a mix of lime-citrus and tropical fragrances, with light, grassy-herbaceous undertones, leaning toward riper fruit on the palate. In the mouth it is crisp and clean, with a mellow, long-lasting and satisfying finish. Light to medium in body, with a pleasant weight on the tongue, this sauvignon blanc makes a delightful match for salads, shellfish, or seafood pasta." For more information, visit www.grgich.com.

Quivira Vineyards Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley 2001
Price $15
Rating 90
"This wine has a definitive expression of place, the overarching goal of all Quivira (pronounced "Kee-Veer-Ah") wines," says General Manager Grady Wann. "The Fig Tree Vineyard is located just north of the winery on the Wine Creek Ranch estate, tucked between West Dry Creek Road and Dry Creek itself. There is a wonderful old mission fig tree, saved from removal years ago by winery co-owner Holly Wendt, standing between the vine rows near the creek." Soil composition of this vineyard block is noted for its high concentration of gravel assuring needed drainage and contributing to the unique flavor profile and complexities of this white.

"Brimming with ripe honeydew and pear, gooseberry and lemongrass, the fruit flavors are well integrated with toasty oak," says Wann. "The 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard is full-bodied yet crisp, and the wine's rich mid-palate leads to a clean, multi-layered, and satisfying finish." At Quivira, wine grape growing is principally handwork. Row-by-row and vine-by-vine, Quivira's experienced crew prunes, thins shoots and bunches, positions canes, removes leaves, hoes and harvests, all by hand.

Serve this wine with fire roasted corn, drenched in butter, then a leg-quarter section of chicken blackened in hearty spice on said grill till crisp on the outside and moist still on the inside. This simple food combination allows this complex and velvety white wine shine. Details await at www.quivirawine.com.