William Hill Chardonnay, Napa 2002
Price $15
Rating 90
This white wine offers refreshing subtlety when compared to the usual California oak dominated, "fruit-bomb." There is refreshing pear and apple nuance with nice butter notes. This well-crafted Chardonnay should be paired with simple cuisine, avoiding huge spicing or pepper heat. The winery suggests matching this white wine with seafood dishes such as sauteed halibut in a lemon and butter suace, grilled shrimp or salmon, fresh crab cakes, or simple pasta with Asiago cheese.

"The wine is gently oak aged and left on the lees (spent yeast)," says winemaker Nick Goldschmidt, "allowing the fruit to shine, displaying a smooth texture with hints of nectarine, honeysuckle and crisp apple." Learn more at www.williamhillwinery.com.

Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay, Napa 2002 Price $35 Rating 93 "The Chardonnay we grow in our vineyards near Yountville amazes me with its richness," says winemaker Ed Sbragia. "The aromas and flavors are big, even expansive...with lush tropical fruit." This is a textbook California Chardonnay destined for both subtle or bold food pairings. There are flavors of lemon meringue, tropical pineapple, spice and toasty butter in the long, balanced finish. It paints the palate with its lushness.

Jacob Beringer left his home in Mainz, Germany, in 1868 to start a new life in the United States. His brother, Frederick, had preceded him by five years and wrote home constantly of the grand opportunities to be found in the vast new world. Frederick had settled in New York, but that life did not appeal to Jacob. Unlike his brother, Jacob Beringer enjoyed toiling in the cellars in his youth in Germany. He had heard that the warm, sunny climate of California was ideal for growing wine grapes, so in 1870 he traveled by train, first to San Francisco and then on to Napa Valley. To his delight, he discovered rocky, well-drained soils similar to those in his native Rhine Valley.

Beringer Vineyards, the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley, celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2001. Learn more at www.beringer.com.

Beringer "Alluvium" Blanc, Knights Valley 2002 Price $16 Rating 88 A pleasant white blend Semillon and Sauvignon, this subtle white is a dramatic contrast to the usual boldness that put the "B" in Beringer. There are soft nuance of apple, fig and pear, laced in delicate citrus. Pair this white wine blend with subtle foods, avoiding powerful spicing or pepper heat. Better yet, sip this gentle blend while reading a good book.

Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2003 Price $11 Rating 90 Another fine example of the crisp, bright style of New Zealand white wines, this Sauvignon Blanc offers the expected elements of grapefruit and red bell pepper in the nose and in the sip. The gooseberry and herb is balanced by a bit of lime in the mix. The wine is exotic and dry. Match this assertive white wine with spice driven food, fresh seafood (especially shellfish), and perhaps a side of kiwi fruit.

Matua Valley Winery is set in the delightful rolling hill country not far from Kumeu, near Auckland on the North island. Learn more at www.matua.co.nz..

Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey 2002
Price $14
Rating 91
Imagine bright grapefruit in the nose and the sip, along with fresh lemon and nuances of white peach. There is a traditional, herbal inspired direction to this Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is not overly oaked and is very refreshing. The style reminds some of New Zealand rather than California.

This Sauvignon Blanc is an exception to the rule, as Morgan specializes in Burgundian varietals from Monterey County, focusing on the Santa Lucia Highlands, the cool east-facing benchland overlooking the Salinas Valley.
Enjoy it, no matter. Find out more at www.morganwinery.com.

Plumpjack Reserve Chardonnay, Napa 2003
Price $42
Rating 90
This is their eighth vintage of Chardonnay. Produced in classic PlumpJack house style, this white wine broadcasts aromas of citrus, tropical mango and banana followed by fresh flavors of Bartlett pear, pineapple and coconut on the palate. This wine spends just enough time in barrel to create a heavy, complex weight and complex finish while keeping a pristine crispness and delicacy throughout the long length. Plumpjack is a front runner in the move to screwcaps. At $42 suggested retail, this is a screwcap wine for half of the production. Go figure. Better yet, go twist the cap. Find out more at www.plumpjack.com.