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Darryl Beeson
"
Wine and More"

Iron Chefs Demand Iron Horse Wines

The Sterling family's Iron Horse has been served at the White House for four presidential administrations, beginning with the historic Ronald Reagan-Gorbachev Summit Meetings ending the Cold War. If this wine can help bring world peace, just think what it can do for your love life.

Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut, Sonoma 1997
Price $29
Rating 92
Bright citrus melded with earthy flavors of brioche and toasted seven-grain bread, there is creamy, almost cream soda velvetiness through the long length.
"Bold, rich, creamy and delicious, this is the most traditional of our sparklings," says winemaker Forrest Tancer, "it sends off memory bells that say 'Champagne', though the bright fruit character in the wine is unmistakably Sonoma County."

"This is the ultimate food wine," boasts family spokesperson Joy Sterling, "sushi, fried, salty and spicy dishes, with popcorn on Oscar night. The best non-fat dessert is Brut and fruit-a handful pf fresh berries in the summer or sliced mango in winter."

Iron Horse, Wedding Cuvee, Sonoma 1997
Price $30
Rating 91
Observe the delicate peachy, not quite salmon, color. There is a lean entry, linked with mineral, maybe flint flavors. A dab of fruit flavor hits in the middle palate. The fruit is discrete, not overtly fruity although definitely Sonoma, with an elegance of fine framboise in the wine's skeleton.

"We boost the color by adding a dose of still pinot noir in the dosage..." explains Tancer, "It really lives up to its romantic image."

"Marries with mushroom dishes such as a grilled Portobello sandwich or wild mushroom risotto," suggests Sterling, "as well as Chinese chicken salad, poached salmon and chocolate-dipped strawberries."

Iron Horse, Wedding Cuvee, Sonoma 1998
Price $30
Rating 91
The color appears lighter, less pink than the 1997 Wedding Cuvee. There are flavors of of lemon/citrus with laurel leaf and delicate fruit.

When asked about the color variation, Sterling replied that "color varies from year to year depending on how much pinot noir that we have. We don't believe in recipe winemaking."

Iron Horse Brut Rose, Sonoma 1995
Price $30
Rating 91
"This deeply-colored Brut Rose is made in the roaring 20's style, very rich and very dry," says Tancer, "This is the wildest of the Iron Horse sparkling wines and most surprisingly the driest, bright, vibrant and ultra sophisticated."

The first sip is lean, and there is crisp entry with elements of dried fruit, with plum notes, and a drop of lemon with herbs in the finish.

Regarding food pairings, Sterling suggests that the Brut Rose is "extremely versatile and goes well with all Mediterranean dishes and compliments most Asian dishes exquisitely."

Iron Horse Russian Cuvee, Sonoma 1997
Price $30
Rating 90
The flavors offer a lean melding of citrus, mineral, and delicate fruit. There is a nice dab of sweetness in the middle, but the wine seems in no way sweet. "This is the richest version of our Classic Vintage Brut," explains Tancer, "This is the same wine as the Classic Vintage Brut, but with a richer dosage, which makes it more opulent, slightly sweeter, and brightens the fruit. This

blend was originally made for the historic Reagan-Gorbachev Summit Meetings."

"The Russian Cuvee is delicious before, during or even as dessert," proclaims Sterling, "and it is especially fun with a small handful of pomegranate seeds bobbling in the glass."

Iron Horse Viognier, Alexander Valley 1999
Price $26
Rating 89
The flavors are somewhat flinty. There is a mineral entry with ripe melon and peach blossom nuance. Viognier is the hot new white wine, trendy, with flavors that are most unique. Iron Horse was one of the early Californian wineries to experiment with this grape, often blending the viognier into their luscious sauvignon blanc.

"This wine goes beautifully with fish, spicy Thai noodles, chicken curry, Thanksgiving turkey, and exotic fruit sorbets," says Sterling.

Iron Horse Chardonnay, Sonoma 1999
Price $26
Rating 92
Imagine flavors of a tropical fruit medley, balanced, discrete with nice oak presence, but not over powering. Pear and other fine white fruit in the long finish make for a lovely wine. Chardonnay is an important component for building sparkling wine, and Iron Horse has resources fro great chardonnay fruit.

Try this well balanced white wine with baked chicken infused with herbs, beautiful artisan cheeses, as well as various seafood served in rich, cream based sauces.

Iron Horse Pinot Noir, Sonoma 1999
Price $33
Rating 96
The aromas are concentrated and remind the drinker of dense forrest and decaying leaves. Imagine Old World style adapted from luscious New World Sonoma fruit. This is one of the finest pinot noirs that I have been blessed to taste over the past twelve months.

"This is, without a doubt, our finest pinot noir to date," proclaims Tancer, "We believe our unusual fine, sandy soil type called 'Gold Ridge' contributes to the particular taste of our pinots.-the berry flavor, a cross between black raspberries and very ripe strawberries with a certain delicacy, refinement, spiciness, zing and vibrancy. It is easy to drink and complex at the same time."

"Pinot noir's chief virtue is its versatility," adds Tancer, "It can go with steak, as well as salmon, more delicate seafood and roast chicken."

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© Darryl Beeson


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