| Passover, or Pesach as we
call it, is a holiday that brings family and friends together at
the table, says Adam Montefiore, International Marketing Director
for Carmel, Israels oldest winery. Wine is an integral
part of the celebration. Four glasses are drunk throughout the meal
and of course, it must be Kosher. The good news is that wines
within this category are improving exponentially in quality.
Passover (April 16th, 2003), known as the Jewish Festival
of Liberation, The Spring Festival and The
Festival of Matzah begins at sundown on Wednesday, April
16, 2003 and lasts for eight days and eight nights. Passover has
both historical and agricultural significance within the Jewish
community, but the primary observance of Passover is related to
the Exodus from Egypt in 1312 BC. This year, millions of Jewish
families, often joined by non-Jewish friends, will sit down together
at a special meal known as a Seder. The Passover Seder is rich
with historical meaning and takes place on the first two nights
of the holiday. A tray of symbolic foods, also known as the Seder
plate, is traditionally found at the head of the table. This Seder
plate prominently displays the various symbolic foods that will
be discussed throughout the meal, each one having a specific meaning
relevant to the holiday.
As with other Jewish holidays, wine is an integral part of the
Passover Seder and is considered a symbol of joy and happiness.
Throughout the meal a blessing is made and a cup consumed. This
happens four times to signify the four expressions of freedom.
Dont be surprised when you are asked to spill a small amount
of wine or dip your finger into the glass ten times during the
reciting of the Ten Plagues, a common practice during this meal.
A symbolic fifth cup of wine is poured and a door opened for the
Biblical Prophet Elijah to come and drink.
Carmel is Israels most established winery, overseen by
Baron Edmond de Rothschild, producing Kosher wine for over 120
years. Many people think that all Kosher wines are sweet
and syrupy. There is nothing in Kosher wine law that mandates
the style of wine, says Montefiore. Kosher wines can
be dry table wines, off-dry, dessert or sparkling. Carmel produces
a complete range of wines, including the sweet variety (Kiddush
wines) that are still traditional for certain ceremonies.
An old Yiddish proverb says Over the bottle many a friend
is found a saying that is sure to prove true this year at
the Seder table. Twenty years ago, Rothschild learned a lesson
about winemaking from Languedoc-born winemaker, Pierre Miodownick.
Pierre showed him that he could produce kosher versions of his
best Bordeaux wines without compromising quality. Today, other
renowned wines in Bordeaux, such as Chateau Giscors, Chateau Leoville
Poyferre, and most recently, Chateau Pontet Canet are following
the Baron's lead and also produce kosher versions of their famous
wines in collaboration with Miodownick. Many contend that the
only difference between the kosher and non-kosher versions of
these wines is that the kosher versions were produced by Sabbath-observant
Jews. In some instances, the kosher wine has been so good, the
chateau has bought it back to bottle using their standard, non-kosher
label.
Kosher Wine Reviews:
Abarbanel Cremant D'Alsace, France N.V.
Price $16
Rating 86
This Cremant is made from the Pinot Blanc grape which is best
known for delicateness, suppleness and balance. It is fermented
in the bottle. Serve slightly chilled, preferably in a tall, fluted
glass. Kosher for Passover. O-U certified. Mevushal. This bubbly
is perfect for a wedding or Bar/Bat Mitzvah.
Abarbanel Gewürztraminer, Alsace Mevushal 2000
Price $18
Rating 87
The only genuine Alsacian kosher and mevushal Gewurztraminer comes
from Abarbanel. There are instantaneous assaults of sugar and
spice, oak and herbs. Some believe that Gewurztraminers are perhaps
one of the only white wines that can stand up to steak.
Abarbanel Riesling, Alsace 1999
Price $18
Rating 89
"A lovely example showing typical characteristics of Alsatian
versions of these varietals. It is dry, showing some mineral,
and is more subtle than their Gewürztraminer," in the
opinion of Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk.
Abarbanel "Roberto Cohen" Sancerre Rouge, Loire 2001
Price $34
Rating 86
"Light and bright," suggests Jewish wine critic Glenn
Verk, "it is flowery, yet with some grip. Fun, but not worth
the price." Red wines from the Loire are often served slightly
chilled. Match this wine with lighter, delicate cuisine.
Beckett's Flat Shiraz, Margaret River 2001
Price $24
Rating 89
This red displays sweet ripe berry fruit and peppery spices. Only
600 cases made. This wine is ideal for steak and has everything
you'd want in a high-end Aussie red -- durability, character,
zest. Kosher for Passover and Mevushal. For more information,
visit www.kosher-wine.com.
Beckett's Flat Sauvignon/Semillon, Margaret River 2001
Price $20
Rating 88
Pronounced tropical fruit sweetness and herbaceous notes combined
with a balanced acidity for a touch of tartness. Perfect with
fish of any kind. Kosher for Passover and Mevushal. Only 600 cases
made. For more information, visist www.kosher-wine.com.
Carmel Emerald Riesling and Chenin Blanc, Israel 2002
Price $9.99
Rating 89
Aromas of fresh, tart apple followed by flavors of fresh, drish
apple. Clean mineral and complex components through the good length.
This wine stole the show during a blind tasting. It is neither
too dry, nor too sweet. This may be the perfect wine for a family
gathering. For more information, go to.www.carmelwines.com.
Carmel Sauvignon Blanc, Israel 2001
Price $11
Rating 88
This wine is produced by the cold fermentation method so that
the natural fruity characteristics of the varietal are retained
in the wine. Pale gold in color, this is a relatively dry, full
bodied wine. It is fruity with good acidity and a pleasant hint
of residual sugar in the finish.
Carmel "Private Collection" Chardonnay, Israel 1999
Price $26
Rating 87
Subtle apple and white fruit flavors with hints of fig and a bit
of spice.
Carmel "Private Colection" Merlot, Israel
Price $26
Rating 92
Rich plum and mulberry on the nose, followed by flavors of blackberry
and dark earth. There is a long, complex length.
Dalton Estate Canaan White, Israel 2002
Price $18
Rating 89
Observes Jewish wine critic (and humorist) Glenn Verk, "This
blend is like a kosher "Conundrum" (a highly sought
after medium-dry white wine from California). So, lets call
it Conniption. Either way, this is a crowd-pleaser.
A Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling combination, medium
pushing full body, it possesses an interesting melding of flavors
with a hint of floral sweetness."
Dalton Merlot Reserve, Israel 2000
Price $25
Rating 89
Intense and lively, with generous plum, wild berry and light
hints of oak and vanilla, this rich and complex wine borders comfortably
on elegance. The wine is aged in small oak casks for a year, and
has nice lingering aftertastes. The wine is drinking well now
but should cellar comfortably until at least 2004. says
Daniel Rogov, Haaretz (July 2002).
Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Israel 1999
Price $25
Rating 89
After two years in oak this deep royal purple medium to
full-bodied wine is still young and tight but already opens to
reveal ripe wild berry, black cherry, currant fruits and generous
hints of mint and vanilla in its flavors and aromas. Well focused,
concentrated and balanced, the wine will drink nicely now if you
give it 15-20 minutes to open in the glass but will be at its
best from 2003-2006. as reviewed by Daniel Rogov, Haaretz
(July 2002).
Layla Malbec, Chile 2000
Price $14.99
Rating 89
"Dark and supple with some leather and black cherry. Good,
and a good value," says Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk. Malbec
made its way to South America from the Bordeaux region of France
during the last quarter of the 19th century. The grapes for this
wine come from mature vines and hail from Chile's oldest family
estate and winery. Malbec is one of the orginal noble varietals
of Bordeaux and has survived in its orginal form primarily in
South America owing to various blights which affected many French
vineyards over the past century. Malbec will remind some of Merlot
in color and texture and also of Cabernet Sauvignon in its ability
to mature in the bottle and due to the higher levels of tannins.
Yarden Blanc De Blanc, Israel 1997
Price $17
Rating 89
This Méthode Champenoise bubbly was reviewed by Jewish
wine critic Glenn Verk, observing "a light straw color, pleasant
slightly yeasty nose, medium body, dry with good acid balance
and soft apple tones." This wine is Kosher for Passover;
but is not mevushal. Some suggest trying this wine with medium
grilled fish in hearty sauces, or grilled marinated chicken, fried
chicken, chicken in light sauce, or duck in a light sauce.
Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay, Israel 2000
Price $26
Rating 89
Observes Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "This white has pretty
oak and a sweet apple-blossom nose, and there is a bit of soft
tartness with a hint of citrus." This wine is Kosher for
Passover; but is not mevushal. Barrel fermentation and aging,
along with partial malolactic fermentation, yields a complex wine
balaned both with butter and oak
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel 1999
Price $26
Rating 90
Observes Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "This wine receives
18 months of aging in French oak, and though unfiltered and a
bit cloudy, the earthy nose is elegant and complex, though maybe
not bone dry." This wine is Kosher for Passover; but is not
mevushal. This wine will complement complex, intensely-flavored
foods, such as leg of lamb stuffed with mixed wild mushrooms,
roasted sirloin with a red-wine-reduction sauce or truffled pasta.
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