| Wines from Mexico are having a big impact, quality wise,
with their neighbors further North. Though still upon a learning
curve as well as a marketing challenge, the wines speak for
themselves with beauty and true terroir as the French might
say. They speak, in flavors, of their rugged and distinctive
origins.
Casa Madero is the oldest winery and vineyard in the North
American continent. About seven decades after Cortez conquered
the Aztecs, Don Lorenzo Garcia explored the north of Mexico,
discovering an oasis and native grape vines within the desert.
The place was called "Santa Maria de las Parras," or
Holy Mary of the Vines. The official Spanish land grant for
the developed vineyards was issued in 1597.
Experts from Europe were brought in around 1900 to introduce
more mainstream grapes and equipment. The red wines have
continued to evolve over the years into complex, fruit-forward
wines. The merlot has won medals in Brussels, Barcelona,
Seville, Toronto and New York. It is packed with delightful,
ripe fruit flavors. California, watch out.
"Casa Medero's terroir has for millennia provided a
suitable environment perfect for wild, native grapes," observes
owner José Milmo. "Situated 5,000 feet above
sea level, the warm days and cool nights help European variatals
of grapes capture bright fruit flavors while retaining the
crisp acidity needed to make premium wines."
Uno mas, por favor!
The Nebbiolo grape has roots in the west. Northwest Italy,
specifically the Piedmont, that is. L.A. Cetto produces a
fun interpretation of Nebbiolo (neb-ee-OH-lo), offering pepper
and spice in the nose. The sip is like velvet with berries
and spice. Complex enough to ponder, but easy to drink.
This is a wine to enjoy. Positioned in a valley near Ensenada,
this winery makes a joyous statement.
L.A. Cetto was founded in Mexico's Baja California by an
Italian immigrant in the 1930's and has grown exponentially,
now producing half of the nation's wine, cultivating 2,500
acres of vineyard, along with tequila and olive oil concerns.
Though pre-Columbian Indians used native vines to produce
a drink to which they added other fruits and honey, Spanish
conquerors brought traditional vines from Europe. In 1524,
the governor of New Spain, conquistador Hernando Cortes,
ordered every Spaniard with a land grant from the crown to
plant 1,000 grape vines for every 100 old vine plants, every
year for five years.
The resulting wines were so good that officials in Madrid
later attempted to pull the plug on the potential of New
World competition.
L.A. Cetto has garnered distribution in the U.K. and a good
deal of the Southwestern United States. Though Spain has
looked the other way concerning the competition of this Mexican
wine export, maybe Napa and Sonoma should take note.
Also watch for premium wines from Mexico’s Chateau
Camou. This is the winery that I predict will wine the race,
that being Mexican wines vs. the world.
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