| In this space, last time, there
began a focus of VinItaly show-stopping wines. Planeta continues
to put the presumed backwards Sicily in the forefront.
The Planeta vineyards are in the beautiful lake country between
Menfi and Sambuca di Sicilia, in the southwestern area of the
island of Sicily. Under the guidance of Carlo Corino, the most
Australian/New World of Italian winemakers, the Planeta family
experiments with both indigenous grapes as well as many challenging
national and international grapes. For more information, go to
www.planeta.it. All prices are estimated conversions from Euro
pricing.
Planeta "Comita", Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily
2001
Price $27
Rating 94
"After an ongoing experiment in our vineyards, we realized
that fiano, a native grape variety from Campania, adapts perfevtly
to our terroir," explains Santi Planeta, domestic marketing
director. His brother, Allesio, is the winemaker at this important
Sicilian family winery.
Aromas of dried apricot, cantelope melon, and a bit of sage are
followed by flavors of lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, melon, dried
apricot, some pleasant floral within the good length. The wine
is medium dry with vibrantly crisp acidity. Comita means comet
in English, and indeed there is a comet on the blue label. "The
nose reminds me of a good New Zealand sauvignon blanc," says
Santi Planeta. Match Comita with Asian cuisine or with grilled
seafood. Assertive spice is not a challenge to this unique wine.
Planeta Chardonnay, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $32
Rating 95
"We were considered traitors when we first experimented with
chardonnay," in tradition driven Sicily, says winemaker Allesio
Planeta. There are aromas of vanilla, honey tones, strong fruit,
citrus, toasted nuts, and complex mineral elements. Flavors of
toasted hazelnut, luscios lemon, and honeyed apricot are in the
followup. "This tastes like a New World chardonnay,"
observes Planeta. The alcohol level is higher than normal and
the flavors are power-packed.
Match the Planeta Chardonnay with international cuisine, grilled
seafood or white meats, as well as dishes prepared with rich cream
sauces.
Planeta "Santa Cecilia", Nero d'Avola, Menfi-Sambuca
di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $35
Rating 92
Nero d'Avola is an inky red wine with roots throughout Sicily.
"We have squeezed Sicily to make this wine," proclaims
Santi Planeta. The "Santa Cecilia" possesses inky mulberry
and blackberry/briar aromas. A sip provides gripping entry, almost
dusty-like, wrapped with vibrant dark fruit. "This grape
is unstudied, so we are doing test plantings to be monitored,"explains
Planeta, adding that in their version of nero d'Avola, there are
"intense and immediate black fruit, cassis and bilberry aromas,
along with light balsamic and pepperish tones that are integrated
with mint and vanilla."
For a traditional match, try the Planeta nero d'Avola with "cheese
and tomato soup, couscous with beef and lamb, goat," says
Planeta.
As a contrast, the 1999 "Santa Cecilia" has aromas
of mushroom, a slightly vegetal nose, and is more evolved and
different than the 2000 vintage. There are flavors of spicy mulberry,
blackberry, leather and sweet tomato. (Score:
88)
Planeta Syrah, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $35
Rating 90
Syrah is Planeta's most recent experimental grape. "At first
we had some disappointments, but syrah likes the sunshine,"
says winemaker Allesio Planeta, "and it is found to be most
adaptable to the Sicilian climate." Consultant Carlo Corino,
who has worked a great deal in southern Australia, says that the
climate in Sicily reminds him of Adelaide. Australia is famous
for shiraz, another name variation of the same grape, syrah.
There are aromas of spicy, black fruit and pepper, followed by
flavors of leather and jammy black fruit. The Planeta syrah is
intense and powerful, accented with mint and delicate herbs in
the finish. "Syrah is more gutsy here than in the France's
Rhone region," adds Planeta.
Planeta Merlot, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $35
Rating 94
A sniif reveals interesting aromas of spiced blackberry, green
pepper, a bit of leather and flint. There are flavors that are
dusty, with a mild tannin entry, notes of cinnamon/nutmeg, as
well as massive, long finish of red and black fruit. "Planeta
made its name in the wine world with merlot," says Santi
Planeta, domestic marketing director.
This well balanced red goes well with "game, beef, matured
cheese, while the Sicilian match could be rabbit in red wine sauce,"
adds Planeta.
Planeta "Burdese" Cabernet Sauvignon, Menfi-Sambuca
di Sicilia, Sicily 1999
Price $35
Rating 90
This 100% cabernet sauvignon is called "Burdese", the
local Sicilian dialect word for Bordeaux. Aromas of mineral, blackberry,
cassis, and mild cedar begin the equation. Flavors of concentrated,
moderately tannic elements of dusty leather, and tight black fruit.
This gripping red with a long finish needs a few years aging to
be fully enjoyed.
Try the Planeta "Burdese" Cabernet Sauvignon with game,
braised red meat, cured pork meats, or stewed lamb.
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