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Darryl Beeson
"
Wine and More"

Planeta- New World Wine from Old World Sicily

In this space, last time, there began a focus of VinItaly show-stopping wines. Planeta continues to put the presumed backwards Sicily in the forefront.

The Planeta vineyards are in the beautiful lake country between Menfi and Sambuca di Sicilia, in the southwestern area of the island of Sicily. Under the guidance of Carlo Corino, the most Australian/New World of Italian winemakers, the Planeta family experiments with both indigenous grapes as well as many challenging national and international grapes. For more information, go to www.planeta.it. All prices are estimated conversions from Euro pricing.

Planeta "Comita", Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2001
Price $27
Rating 94
"After an ongoing experiment in our vineyards, we realized that fiano, a native grape variety from Campania, adapts perfevtly to our terroir," explains Santi Planeta, domestic marketing director. His brother, Allesio, is the winemaker at this important Sicilian family winery.

Aromas of dried apricot, cantelope melon, and a bit of sage are followed by flavors of lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, melon, dried apricot, some pleasant floral within the good length. The wine is medium dry with vibrantly crisp acidity. Comita means comet in English, and indeed there is a comet on the blue label. "The nose reminds me of a good New Zealand sauvignon blanc," says Santi Planeta. Match Comita with Asian cuisine or with grilled seafood. Assertive spice is not a challenge to this unique wine.

Planeta Chardonnay, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $32
Rating 95
"We were considered traitors when we first experimented with chardonnay," in tradition driven Sicily, says winemaker Allesio Planeta. There are aromas of vanilla, honey tones, strong fruit, citrus, toasted nuts, and complex mineral elements. Flavors of toasted hazelnut, luscios lemon, and honeyed apricot are in the followup. "This tastes like a New World chardonnay," observes Planeta. The alcohol level is higher than normal and the flavors are power-packed.

Match the Planeta Chardonnay with international cuisine, grilled seafood or white meats, as well as dishes prepared with rich cream sauces.

Planeta "Santa Cecilia", Nero d'Avola, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $35
Rating 92
Nero d'Avola is an inky red wine with roots throughout Sicily. "We have squeezed Sicily to make this wine," proclaims Santi Planeta. The "Santa Cecilia" possesses inky mulberry and blackberry/briar aromas. A sip provides gripping entry, almost dusty-like, wrapped with vibrant dark fruit. "This grape is unstudied, so we are doing test plantings to be monitored,"explains Planeta, adding that in their version of nero d'Avola, there are "intense and immediate black fruit, cassis and bilberry aromas, along with light balsamic and pepperish tones that are integrated with mint and vanilla."

For a traditional match, try the Planeta nero d'Avola with "cheese and tomato soup, couscous with beef and lamb, goat," says Planeta.

As a contrast, the 1999 "Santa Cecilia" has aromas of mushroom, a slightly vegetal nose, and is more evolved and different than the 2000 vintage. There are flavors of spicy mulberry, blackberry, leather and sweet tomato. (Score:
88)

Planeta Syrah, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $35
Rating 90
Syrah is Planeta's most recent experimental grape. "At first we had some disappointments, but syrah likes the sunshine," says winemaker Allesio Planeta, "and it is found to be most adaptable to the Sicilian climate." Consultant Carlo Corino, who has worked a great deal in southern Australia, says that the climate in Sicily reminds him of Adelaide. Australia is famous for shiraz, another name variation of the same grape, syrah.

There are aromas of spicy, black fruit and pepper, followed by flavors of leather and jammy black fruit. The Planeta syrah is intense and powerful, accented with mint and delicate herbs in the finish. "Syrah is more gutsy here than in the France's Rhone region," adds Planeta.

Planeta Merlot, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 2000
Price $35
Rating 94
A sniif reveals interesting aromas of spiced blackberry, green pepper, a bit of leather and flint. There are flavors that are dusty, with a mild tannin entry, notes of cinnamon/nutmeg, as well as massive, long finish of red and black fruit. "Planeta made its name in the wine world with merlot," says Santi Planeta, domestic marketing director.

This well balanced red goes well with "game, beef, matured cheese, while the Sicilian match could be rabbit in red wine sauce," adds Planeta.

Planeta "Burdese" Cabernet Sauvignon, Menfi-Sambuca di Sicilia, Sicily 1999
Price $35
Rating 90
This 100% cabernet sauvignon is called "Burdese", the local Sicilian dialect word for Bordeaux. Aromas of mineral, blackberry, cassis, and mild cedar begin the equation. Flavors of concentrated, moderately tannic elements of dusty leather, and tight black fruit. This gripping red with a long finish needs a few years aging to be fully enjoyed.

Try the Planeta "Burdese" Cabernet Sauvignon with game, braised red meat, cured pork meats, or stewed lamb.

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© Darryl Beeson


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