| I am repeatedly asked about matching
wines to different cheeses. The American impulse is to serve wine
and cheese together. In other parts of the world, this is not considered
a perfect match. Though the debate is not settled, there can be
some inspired matches.
Kevin Zraly, author of the "Windows on the World Wine Course",
teaches the simplicity rule. "At Windows on the World, we
found the best cheeses for wine are the subtly flavored ones,"
says Zraly, "with good Italian bets being Parmigiano Reggiano,
fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Talleggio, and Fontina."
From France, Zraly recommends Chèvre, Montrachet, Tomme,
and Gruyère. From elsewhere, try Dutch Gouda, as well as
English or some American Cheddar. "Don't forget domestic
aged or fresh goat cheese and Monterey Jack," he adds.
The safe approach is too stick to mildness for successful matches.
This is not to say that some boldly flavored cheeses will not
be winners. Here is a top five list of cheese and wine pairings:
Parmigiano or Romano styled cheeses with almost any wine, a particular
favorite being Champagne. This is the match to use if one is selling
wine because average wine seems to taste better in tandem with
the nutty flavors. The Old French expression is to sell wine with
cheese and buy wine with bread, because the richness of the cheese
can hide faults and soften bitter edges to the wine.
Stilton, or other high quality blue-veined cheese, dance elegantly
with Port. The best match is a vintage or LBV (late bottled vintage)
Port, as opposed to a tawny. The assertive flavors and higher
alcohol levels of the Port are brought into submission by the
rich and salty cheese. This pairing rivals the classic match-up
of peanut butter with chocolate.
Roquefort, not unlike the Stilton with Port marriage, is magical
with a French Sauternes. A poorer man's version of this would
be to substitute a late harvest Muscat, such as the Bonny Doon
"Vin De Glacière" from California.
Goat cheese is fantastic, the fresher the better, served with
the "King" of Sauvignon Blancs, Sancerre from the Loire
Valley of France. Some domestic Sauvignon Blancs that would rise
to this occasion include Honig, Matanzas Creek, Groth, Cakebread,
as well the more affordable Wente, Concannon and Chateau St. Michelle's
"Horse Heaven Vineyard".
Brie is miraculous with Champagne. Opt for even more decadence
by serving the Brie warmed, or even in a baked flour crust, and
expect applause from your dining companions. Some noteworthy domestic
Brut sparkling wines to substitute include the Mumm Napa, Thornton
from Temecula, and the Gruet from New Mexico.
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