The vintage bottled, very limited Glenrothes Single Malt springs forth from the Speyside region of Scotland, not unlike the salmon from the river that divides said region. Both benefit from a little splash of water. Adding an equal part of water to Scotch results in a greater aroma. On the palate, it goes down without oiliness and with a feeling of oakiness. The length of flavor is longer, characteristic of an important Scotch.

Glengoyne 17 year old ($56 750 ml)

"Producing a whisky that is open and is fresh is our goal," explains spokesperson Ronnie Cox, "It takes a lot out of the cask, but it is lively and fresh. We reckon that 40% of the flavor comes from the cask, European oak imparts spicy richness, while the American oak tends to impart more vanilla. The American oak is denser and it takes longer for the whisky to mature."

Glengoyne has maintained its subtle style by using air dried barley, rather than barley dried with more harsh peat smoke. The whisky is more delicate and approachable. It can pair well with caramel and ice cream.

Glengoyne Scottish Oak Wood Finish ($66 750ml)

This Glengoyne, uniquely, is Scottish oak wood finished. "We are the only producer to do so," says Cox, "and we don't have a huge amount of oak in Scotland, needing a minimum of a 120 year old tree. There is a fresh spiciness and an exciting hint of pepper, which I've never come across in Scotch whisky tastings. Sadly there are only 5000 bottles in the world (1300 in the US). Color and clarity are important." If it is clear, it is good condition. The nose is relatively delicate with mature apples/apple pie aromas. A younger whisky is more green apple in character.

The nose contains elements of black pepper, butterscotch and a bit of vanilla. There are piquant flavors of black pepper. This whisky works with hard cheddar cheese and even Mexican cuisine. "Other characteristics are leaping out of the glass. Apples, a touch of nutmeg, and delicate butterscotch or caramel," observes Cox.

"Have you got a single malt that is OK to drink before we have fine wines at dinner?" is the question that wine connoisseurs have asked Cox, "This was the same premise with the creation of Cutty Sark in 1923. This is the reason for the recreation of Glenrothes. It has previously been the backbone of Cutty Sark. It can be served before fine wines."

1989 Glenrothes ($50 750 ml)
Aromas of orange peel, spiced cake with cinnamon, raisins, there is a resounding depth. There are powerful flavors of orange peel, anise, chestnuts. Try matching this Scotch with prawns in a whisky sauce.

1979 Glenrothes ($70 750 ml)
Aromas of pecan, sherry notes (Oloroso) are in this whisky. "It is wonderfully elegant on the palate. This is the Rolls Royce of Glenrothes," proclaims Cox. For more details, go to www.glengoyne.com.