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Darryl Beeson
"
Wine and More"

Sherry, Sherry Baby

Once a mainstay of earlier American life (i.e. Thomas Jefferson), this oxidized but tasty wine somehow became associated with Victorian grandmotherly types. There is now an exciting revisit to this historic wine, sometimes on the rocks. It shines with a crisp attitude in the glass and goes very well with many foods.

Domecq, "La Ina" Sherry, NV Spain
Price $14.99
Rating 90
This extremely dry wine is an acquired taste for some. Grippingly dry it is at its best served ice cold with toasted nuts, black olives, and thinly sliced Spanish ham. The complexity and flavor comes from the "flor", a remainder of the special yeasts that create this distinctive wine. It is crisp, full of flavor and interestingly fragrant.

"La Ina features remarkably fresh apple, almond and yeast flavors," adds spokesperson Tony Lombardi. The crispness even allows this refreshing sherry to even to be served on ice.

Emilio Lustau, Puerto Fino, NV Spain
Price $14.99
Rating 92
Peurto de Santa Maria is one of three important towns in the Sherry region, a source of very fine fino if you pardon the pun. It is powerfully dry with what some describe as a "salty tang" which with the complexity of the yeast's "flor" results in a magnificent, dry sherry. Definately elegant and crisp. Serve with grilled meats, especially sausage.

Osborne Fino Sherry, NV Spain
Price $8
Rating 90
Osborne is likely the best value in Sherry, especially the very dry fino. The fresh aroma and straw-like light color make the glass very inviting. Subtle nut and fruit flavors make this wonderful value an excellent aperitif wine, served very chilled. Look for the black bull on the label. Serve with roasted nuts, thinly sliced Spanish ham, black olives or lusty grilled meats.

Domecq Manzanilla Sherry, NV Spain
Price $14.99
Rating 90
Grown in cooler vineyards near the coast, Domecq Manzanilla is a very subtle variation of fino Sherry. It is aged under a layer of yeast ("flor") in bodegas in the coastal town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. The lower temperatures and the elevated humidity result in a pale, dry Sherry which is very distinctive. Manzanilla is more delicate than the "finos" matured in the warmer climate of Jerez de la Frontera. This wine is a lovely match with spiced, boiled shrimp. The name Manzanilla refers to the flavor, said to remind some of chamomile (manzanilla).

Domecq Medium Dry Amontillado, NV Spain
Price $14.99
Rating 89
Think nutty when you sip this wine. Classic to Amontillado, the nuttiness is achieved by eliminating the yeast layer called "flor" from the aging process. This is done by boosting the alcohol content to 17%. The wine without the protective layer of yeast derives body and amber color from the exposure to air, a nutty aroma and flavor (like hazlenuts) resulting in this classic style of Sherry. The wine is gently sweetened by the addition of a little Pedro Ximenez (peh-dro hee-MEN-eth) wine. Match this medium sweet wine with bisques or chowders, as well as salted nuts and mild, dry cheeses.

Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry, NV Spain
Price $14.99
Rating 89
This is the world's top selling Sherry. It is the most popular in America, outselling its nearest competition two to one. The rich sweetness makes for an easy choice as an apertif or digestif. Some serve it on the rocks with a squeeze of lime or orange. Sherry is a fortified wine and this one weighs in at 17.5% alcohol. The distinctive blue glass bottle now used for Harveys Bristol Cream Sherry was introduced in 1997 to help denote Harvey's 200th anniversary.

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