"I started in 1990 at Simi. They say that I am in sales prevention because I always tell the truth," says winemaker Nick Goldschmidt, an aggressively opinionated and no way shy spokesperson. "This is agriculture. It takes us five years to make a significant change in anything." The wines speak even more truths than Simi's New Zealand born winemaker. He has a definite direction underway. Consider the decade of the 1990's.

If you were lucky enough to have collected some of these wines, here are notes on how they are now drinking. Otherwise, only the 1997 forward may be found at retail, that being for around $60-$70. Older vintages may still appear on restaurant lists, but will range from $100 to $225 per bottle in that arena.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1990
Score: 93
Soft, but powerful red fruit flavors, cherry, cassis, trailing with a little dust-like complexity through the long length. In no way does this beautiful red wine appear to be more than a decade old.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1991
Score: 88
Red cherry with a slight roasted vegetal element. There are cherry tomato flavors throughout the middle. "1991 had a late arrival of spring. Flowering was three weeks behind," defends Goldschmidt, "The wine is more elegant and less powerful." This bottle that was sampled was a little tired and hopefully was an exception.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1992
Score: 96
A powerful, complex nose, followed by a bright array of luscious red fruit. There is red and black cherry, cassis, berries and a beautiful balance of fruit complexity and oak.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1993
Score: 95
Rich red cherry, a hint of menthol within the complex array of red fruit, almond nougat, bits of raisin and tea leaves. There are no tired flavors, just the beautiful nuances that come with age. "A very difficult year," says Goldschmidt, but they managed to create a winner.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1994
Score: 96
Aromas of leather and red fruit, followed by bright cherry, cassis, a drop of tropical lime, candied orange peel, spice. 1994 was an important year for red wines from California.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1995
Score: 92
Aromas of spiced red fruit, followed by a powerful array of berries, cherries and cassis laced with subtle leather and oak influence. The long length ends with brightness, dusted with white pepper and spice.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1996
Score: 96
A somber, dusty nose, followed by concentrated flavors of jammy red fruit spun within delightful spice. The power lingers on the palate through this incredible fruit forward wine.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1997 (Current Release)
Score: 95
Concentrated, almost like hard cherry candy. Elegant, yet powerful, full of
black cherry, plum and mulberry.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1998 (Not yet
released)
Score: 94
Concentrated array of red and black fruit, laced with gripping tannin and a dust of spice. Big and well balanced.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 1999 (Not yet
released)
Score: 94
Jammy, mulberry and blueberry fruit with a dusting of spice and oak.

Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma 2000 (Barrel Sample)
Score: 92
Very fruit forward and elegant. Needs time to fully evaluate.

All of the Simi Reserve Cabernets demand a meat driven menu. The wines possess wonderful acidity and will meld well with rich cream based sauces. Though powerful wines, their tannins are magnificently ripe and balanced within the opposing elements of fruit and oak. In this writer's opinion, Goldschmidt is overlooked by some as the genius winemaker that he is. Though the wines are not inexpensive, buy a few now. Their price, and status, will continue to rise.