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Darryl Beeson
"
Wine and More"

Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley - an evolution as diverse in cultures as crops

guest column by Kate Jones

"The evolution of Dry Creek Valley has been as diverse in cultures as in crops and grape varieties," said Rob Weinstock, who grew up in the valley, farming his family vineyards where he still resides. From the valley's earliest beginnings, pioneers of diverse cultures; Spanish, French, Mexican and the Italians planted the coveted Zinfandel grapes, leaving their imprint. Today, Dry Creek Valley continues to reflect an array of growers and vintners, from newcomers to fourth and fifth generation farmers and winemakers.

The crops that have been planted in Dry Creek Valley have also evolved, from pears, prunes, apricots, livestock and grapes to a rich assortment of premium grape varieties. Sauvignon Blanc, Rhone and Bordeaux varieties as well as the historic Zinfandel grape variety of the region. "Zinfandel still reigns as king in Dry Creek Valley," said Weinstock. "Its value as a cash crop during Prohibition and the Great Depression saved many ranches from foreclosure, and Zinfandel thrives in this viticultural region."

"The climate of this narrow valley, with its well-drained soils, is also evolving," explained Weinstock. "The completion of the earthen dam that created Lake Sonoma altered the flow of Dry Creek, making it no longer 'dry.' Today, we realize the macro and micro climates from the valley floor, to the upper benchlands, to the hillsides are ideally suited to the grape varieties of the present and future.This appellation provides growers and winemakers with many, many opportunities to grow and produce some of the finest selection of grapes and wines here in the North Coast," stated Weinstock. "The valley also lends a romantic, historic value to making wine."

From Prunes to Sauvignon Blanc, in the early 1970s, when Dave Stare arrived in Dry Creek Valley, there were about 6,000 acres of prune trees and less than 1,000 acres of grapes. Today there are more than 9,000 acres of premium grapes and probably less than an acre of prune trees. "Over the last 30 years, virtually all of the prunes and pears have been pulled out and planted to grapes," said Stare.

A modern-day pioneer, in 1972 he founded the region's first new winery following the end of Prohibition. Stare's exposure to the wines of the Loire Valley while visiting France in the 1960s inspired him to switch professions, from engineering to winemaking, and move to Dry Creek Valley.
"I fell in love with the Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc wines of the Loire region," said Stare. "I figured if they can do it in France, then we can do it in California."

At the time, Stare's idea of planting Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley was revolutionary. "The Sonoma County farm advisor told me that nobody could grow Sauvignon Blanc in the area," recalled Stare. "He recommended that I plant Chardonnay, Riesling or Gewurztraminer for white wine and Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Gamay or Gamay Beaujolais for red wine. I ignored his advice and planted Sauvignon Blanc, and Dry Creek Vineyard was the first winery to release a Fume Blanc in Sonoma County. That vineyard, DCV3, is still the backbone of our total production," said Stare. There are now many other wineries that make a Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc, including Quivira, Mill Creek, Lambert Bridge, Mauritson and Pedroncelli. Approximately 450 acres are planted to the variety within the appellation.

Bordeaux varieties now flourish in Dry Creek Valley. The Michel-Schlumberger Wine Estate specializes in many wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Owner Jacques Schlumberger spoke to the vision of his late partner, Jean-Jacques Michel, a Swiss banker who loved Sonoma County. Michel purchased the property in 1979 and began planting the western Wine Creek Canyon hillsides to 50 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. "The features that favor Bordeaux varieties here are really the same factors that favor Sauvignon Blanc and even Zinfandel," explained Schlumberger. "Dry Creek Valley has a relatively cool maritime climate with well-drained soils, especially on these hillsides and benchlands where our vineyards are located."

Schlumberger indicated that according to recent figures, almost 2,300 acres are planted to Zinfandel in Dry Creek Valley, while more than 4,100 acres are planted to Bordeaux varieties. In addition, of the 50 wineries in the valley, more than 30 of them make Bordeaux varietal wine.

"Europeans might be shocked, scandalized or flabbergasted that we grow Loire varieties next to Bordeaux varieties next to Rhone varieties. I believe that one of the great visions of California and the New World is that we are not tied down by the same restrictions and regulations that affect growers and winemakers in the Old World," says Schlumberger. "One of the real treasures of Dry Creek Valley and of California is the diversity, the experimentation and the spirit of evolution. Why make anything other than Zinfandel in Dry Creek Valley? Because the climate and soils are ideal and the 'other' wines are superb."

Dry Creek Rhone varieties are gaining ground. The evolution of new grape varieties in Dry Creek Valley continues into the present. Bill Frick represents the very small wineries in the valley and an intimate interaction between the land and the winegrower. A one-man estate, Frick farms his hillside vineyard and handcrafts his Rhone varietals, including Syrah, Cinsault and Viognier. Like many of the other Dry Creek wineries producing Rhone varietals, the vineyard blocks are small. There is less than 350 acres of Syrah and Carignane planted in the entire appellation, but the passion and experimentation is intense.

"All of the Rhone varieties do well in Dry Creek Valley- Syrah, Grenache, Carignane, Cinsault, Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne," said Frick. "They have been growing here for many years but have not been recognized or bottled as Rhone varietals." In the past, Zinfandels from Dry Creek were mostly field blends, containing Carignane, Petite Sirah and other non-Zinfandel red grapes. "Those grapes produce very good juice and good wine, benefiting the Zinfandel blends, and demonstrate that it is possible to make excellent wines," said Frick who has the most experience with Syrah, the valley's predominant Rhone variety. "The Syrah in Dry Creek shows northern Rhone characteristics: tar, earthiness, smoky and spicy qualities."

More and more wineries are making Rhone varietals. Frick replanted his Napa Gamay vineyard in 1989 to Syrah and Viognier. Preston planted two acres of Syrah in 1977 and currently makes Syrah and Viognier. Unti produces Syrah and Grenache. The growers and producers in Dry Creek Valley are interested in varieties that grow well and produce wines of distinction from their properties. Increasing acreage of Rhone grapes indicates they are pleased with the results. " Zinfandel will be the king forever, but I believe Rhone varietals have a future in Dry Creek Valley," predicts Frick.

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© Darryl Beeson


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