| guest column by Kate Jones
"The evolution of Dry Creek Valley has been as diverse in
cultures as in crops and grape varieties," said Rob Weinstock,
who grew up in the valley, farming his family vineyards where
he still resides. From the valley's earliest beginnings, pioneers
of diverse cultures; Spanish, French, Mexican and the Italians
planted the coveted Zinfandel grapes, leaving their imprint. Today,
Dry Creek Valley continues to reflect an array of growers and
vintners, from newcomers to fourth and fifth generation farmers
and winemakers.
The crops that have been planted in Dry Creek Valley have also
evolved, from pears, prunes, apricots, livestock and grapes to
a rich assortment of premium grape varieties. Sauvignon Blanc,
Rhone and Bordeaux varieties as well as the historic Zinfandel
grape variety of the region. "Zinfandel still reigns as king
in Dry Creek Valley," said Weinstock. "Its value as
a cash crop during Prohibition and the Great Depression saved
many ranches from foreclosure, and Zinfandel thrives in this viticultural
region."
"The climate of this narrow valley, with its well-drained
soils, is also evolving," explained Weinstock. "The
completion of the earthen dam that created Lake Sonoma altered
the flow of Dry Creek, making it no longer 'dry.' Today, we realize
the macro and micro climates from the valley floor, to the upper
benchlands, to the hillsides are ideally suited to the grape varieties
of the present and future.This appellation provides growers and
winemakers with many, many opportunities to grow and produce some
of the finest selection of grapes and wines here in the North
Coast," stated Weinstock. "The valley also lends a romantic,
historic value to making wine."
From Prunes to Sauvignon Blanc, in the early 1970s, when Dave
Stare arrived in Dry Creek Valley, there were about 6,000 acres
of prune trees and less than 1,000 acres of grapes. Today there
are more than 9,000 acres of premium grapes and probably less
than an acre of prune trees. "Over the last 30 years, virtually
all of the prunes and pears have been pulled out and planted to
grapes," said Stare.
A modern-day pioneer, in 1972 he founded the region's first new
winery following the end of Prohibition. Stare's exposure to the
wines of the Loire Valley while visiting France in the 1960s inspired
him to switch professions, from engineering to winemaking, and
move to Dry Creek Valley.
"I fell in love with the Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc
wines of the Loire region," said Stare. "I figured if
they can do it in France, then we can do it in California."
At the time, Stare's idea of planting Sauvignon Blanc in Dry
Creek Valley was revolutionary. "The Sonoma County farm advisor
told me that nobody could grow Sauvignon Blanc in the area,"
recalled Stare. "He recommended that I plant Chardonnay,
Riesling or Gewurztraminer for white wine and Cabernet Sauvignon,
Napa Gamay or Gamay Beaujolais for red wine. I ignored his advice
and planted Sauvignon Blanc, and Dry Creek Vineyard was the first
winery to release a Fume Blanc in Sonoma County. That vineyard,
DCV3, is still the backbone of our total production," said
Stare. There are now many other wineries that make a Dry Creek
Sauvignon Blanc, including Quivira, Mill Creek, Lambert Bridge,
Mauritson and Pedroncelli. Approximately 450 acres are planted
to the variety within the appellation.
Bordeaux varieties now flourish in Dry Creek Valley. The Michel-Schlumberger
Wine Estate specializes in many wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot. Owner Jacques Schlumberger spoke to the vision of
his late partner, Jean-Jacques Michel, a Swiss banker who loved
Sonoma County. Michel purchased the property in 1979 and began
planting the western Wine Creek Canyon hillsides to 50 acres of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. "The features that favor
Bordeaux varieties here are really the same factors that favor
Sauvignon Blanc and even Zinfandel," explained Schlumberger.
"Dry Creek Valley has a relatively cool maritime climate
with well-drained soils, especially on these hillsides and benchlands
where our vineyards are located."
Schlumberger indicated that according to recent figures, almost
2,300 acres are planted to Zinfandel in Dry Creek Valley, while
more than 4,100 acres are planted to Bordeaux varieties. In addition,
of the 50 wineries in the valley, more than 30 of them make Bordeaux
varietal wine.
"Europeans might be shocked, scandalized or flabbergasted
that we grow Loire varieties next to Bordeaux varieties next to
Rhone varieties. I believe that one of the great visions of California
and the New World is that we are not tied down by the same restrictions
and regulations that affect growers and winemakers in the Old
World," says Schlumberger. "One of the real treasures
of Dry Creek Valley and of California is the diversity, the experimentation
and the spirit of evolution. Why make anything other than Zinfandel
in Dry Creek Valley? Because the climate and soils are ideal and
the 'other' wines are superb."
Dry Creek Rhone varieties are gaining ground. The evolution of
new grape varieties in Dry Creek Valley continues into the present.
Bill Frick represents the very small wineries in the valley and
an intimate interaction between the land and the winegrower. A
one-man estate, Frick farms his hillside vineyard and handcrafts
his Rhone varietals, including Syrah, Cinsault and Viognier. Like
many of the other Dry Creek wineries producing Rhone varietals,
the vineyard blocks are small. There is less than 350 acres of
Syrah and Carignane planted in the entire appellation, but the
passion and experimentation is intense.
"All of the Rhone varieties do well in Dry Creek Valley-
Syrah, Grenache, Carignane, Cinsault, Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne,"
said Frick. "They have been growing here for many years but
have not been recognized or bottled as Rhone varietals."
In the past, Zinfandels from Dry Creek were mostly field blends,
containing Carignane, Petite Sirah and other non-Zinfandel red
grapes. "Those grapes produce very good juice and good wine,
benefiting the Zinfandel blends, and demonstrate that it is possible
to make excellent wines," said Frick who has the most experience
with Syrah, the valley's predominant Rhone variety. "The
Syrah in Dry Creek shows northern Rhone characteristics: tar,
earthiness, smoky and spicy qualities."
More and more wineries are making Rhone varietals. Frick replanted
his Napa Gamay vineyard in 1989 to Syrah and Viognier. Preston
planted two acres of Syrah in 1977 and currently makes Syrah and
Viognier. Unti produces Syrah and Grenache. The growers and producers
in Dry Creek Valley are interested in varieties that grow well
and produce wines of distinction from their properties. Increasing
acreage of Rhone grapes indicates they are pleased with the results.
" Zinfandel will be the king forever, but I believe Rhone
varietals have a future in Dry Creek Valley," predicts Frick.
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