Santola Vinho Verde Branco, Portugal 2003 Price $6 Rating 88 The clean nose exhibits aromas of limestone, cardamom and fruit spice hints, along with limeaid spritz. The sip offers a bright, tropical lime along with earthen notes in the middle, then concentrated lemon citrus in the finish. Portuguese vinho verde (VEEN-yo verd), or green wine, is made from predictably crisp, tart grapes.

Match this pleasant white with shellfish, ceviche, gently cooked seafood or charcoal grilled leaks. "This is as summery as wine gets," observes The Fort Worth Star Telegram's Mark Card. "The resulting wine is dry, crisp, acidic and light, both in body and alcohol (9 percent). It's a knockout value, though, with flavors of lime and pineapple. Just for fun, it's a little fizzy, too. Serve it beer-cold."

Torres Vina Sol, Penedes 2002
Price $9
Rating 87
A sniff shows subtle kiwi, soft fruit and more. The sip gives flavors of mineral/limestone framed within mild citrus floral, papaya hints and soft lime. The blend is primarily Chardonnay with about 15% Parellada, one of the grapes used for Cava (Spanish sparkling wine). One co-taster observed this white as "pretty simple, drink in large amounts." Serve this versatile white with fire-grilled chicken or pork- A great patio wine as well.

Bodegas Montecillo Blanco, Rioja Alta 2002 Price $9 Rating 89 "Intensely fruity and aromatic with notes of pear, green apple and banana," says winemaker Maria Martinez-Sierra, rightfully proud. "Very smooth, creamy and fresh, with deep fruity flavors. Lively and persistent in the mouth with a light touch of citrus. Consume young and serve chilled, but not excessively cold. It is especially enjoyable as an apéritif, and it pairs exceptionally well with all types of white fish, shellfish, paella and pasta." The Viura grape is a perfect alternative to the over-played, Chardonnay card. This white wine is delicate and refreshing. To learn more, go to www.wjdeutsch.com.

Wild Horse Viognier, Central Coast 2002
Price $18
Rating 90
"The Wild Horse style of Viognier captures the aromatic charm and richness of this grape," boasts winery founder Ken Volk. "Our 2002 displays aromas of ripe apricot, nectarine and honeysuckle followed by elegant flavors...(and) a hint of ginger blossom and spice."

The winery suggests serving this exotic white as an aperitif and a reception wine. Match the wine with Pacific Rim Cuisine, shellfish or roasted chicken. The crisp aroma can take bolder, spiced fooods with a fair amount of heat.
Learn more at www.wildhorsewinery.com.

Bogle Sauvignon Blanc, California 2003
Price $8
Rating 88
Notice the aromas of grapefruit, tangerine, vibrant orange within the crisply refreshing pour. There are elements of ripe melon and a touch of herb. This is a perfect white wine for most fish in general, shellfish, as well as spicy food on the lighter side. More information is at www.boglewinery.com.

Estancia Pinot Grigio, California 2003
Price $15
Rating 91
This is, perhaps, one of the best versions of California's interpretation of Italy's massively popular Pinot Grigio (the same grape as Pinot Gris). "In the nose, you'll find pear, pippin apple, grapefruit, orange zest and honey with a hint of white pepper and cardamom," boasts winemaker Ken Shyvers.
"There are full bodied flavors of anjou pear, white peach, pippin apple and lychee nut flavors." There is a vibrant fruit intensity. The blend includes 16% Chardonnay, contributing fuller body to this white. Learn more at www.franciscan.com.

Long Vineyards Pinot Grigio "Laird Family Vineyard" Carneros 2002 Price $20 Rating 92 "This is not your Italian Pinot Grigio," explains winemaker Bob Long. "It has California body and is immediately forward with fruit, rich and silky with honey and subtle, cool tropical fruit flavors, persistent aromatics, bright acidity and a long finish." Long suggests matching this white wine with most any cuisine, including Asian fusion and Southwestern picante. More information is a www.longvineyards.com.