We turn now to chilled, refreshing wines to go with the warmth and foods of the season.

Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2004

Price $16.99

Rating 89

The flavors are bright and crisp. Citrus, especially grapefruit, leads the way. The length lingers nicely.

Winemaker Simon Waghorn suggests pairing the wine with "summer salads, poultry and shellfish, especially oysters or green shelled mussels, as well as lobster and white fish."

More information is at www.whitehaven.com.

Canyon Road Sauvignon Blanc, California 2004

Price $8

Rating 86

The sip starts with delicate mineral, then there is ripe melon, grapefruit, and slight tropical in the finish. The winery suggests drinking this white very young, perhaps with salad or shrimp cocktail. Learn more at www.canyonroad.com.

Yvecourt Bordeaux (white) 2003

Price $8.99

Rating 86

The blend is 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle, the three classic white grapes of Bordeaux . The aromas are simple, but earthy. The sip reveals flavors of ripe honeydew melon along with more earthiness.

Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc "Te Muna Vineyard," Martinborough 2004

Price $12.99

Rating 90

" The wine is somewhat of a revelation," boasts wine maker Steve Smith, MW, "rich and evocative aromas of peach, apple, lime, hints of passionfruit and delicate nuts. Flavors are forward and full with stone fruit, lime and grapefruit flavors balanced with a bright sweet herbaceous edge. The palate is long and textural with the unique gentle grainy character typical of this vineyard and a lovely juicy feel. Earlier drinking than previous vintages. A classy, complex Sauvignon Blanc showing signs of real pedigree."

As far as a food pairing, Smith suggests " cheese from Wairarapa and walnuts from the Hawkes Bay . French in concept, New Zealand in origin, Francophile try this and weep." Discover more at www.craggyrange.com.

Estancia Pinot Grigio , California 2004

Price $15

Rating 90

As with previous vintages, this is, perhaps, one of the best versions of California 's interpretation of Italy 's massively popular Pinot Grigio (the same grape as Pinot Gris). "In the nose, you'll find pear, pippin apple, grapefruit, orange zest and honey with a hint of white pepper and cardamom," boasts winemaker Ken Shyvers. "There are full-bodied flavors of Anjou pear, white peach, pippin apple and lychee nut flavors." There is a vibrant fruit intensity. Learn more at www.estanciaestate.com.

Conundrum, California 2003

Price $28

Rating 90

"Well, my wine is going through them changes," with apologies to musician Buddy Miles, this wine is changin'. One, the name Caymus is no longer on the label. Their spokesperson says that Conundrum outgrew Caymus and become its own label. Two, this white is much less sweet than in previous vintages. It drinks like a hab troken Riesling from Germany , though it is a blend of many grapes- Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat , and others. It is, indeed, a Conundrum. Mighty refreshing; Mighty tasty.

Simi Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma 2003

Price $13.99

Rating 92

Lots of lively acid and crisp, clean fruit flavors, they blend in anl amount of Semillon (91% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon) achieving a richness on the palate that gives the wine body and longevity. Bright citrus, orange blossom, pineapple and melon with lemon curd, fresh cut grass and light oak aromas lead the way. Zesty lemon-lime characterizes the mouth. Notes of grass and minerals with a subtle oak finish out the complex length.

A spokesperson from the winery suggest pairing this wine with "a wide range of foods, including oysters, chilled tomato soup, gazpacho, roasted beet salad, or English pea soup." Find out more at www.simiwinery.com.