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Darryl Beeson
"
Wine and More"

These Wildman wines are well, wild, man

The following wine values, some more affordable than others, were tasted at the Dallas Central Market with Wildman marketing vice president Roger Bohmrich, Master of Wine. For more information, visit www.frederickwildman.com.

Olivier Leflaive Puligny Montrachet, Burgundy 2000
Price $42.99
Rating 90
"This wine is a village level wine, but it is a statement of what Olivier Leflaive can do, a blend of twelve separately fermented vineyard souurces," observes Bohmrich, MW.

A rich concentrated nose with mineral and crisp acidity, almost steely, then flavors of citrus, fresh white fruit and a touch of citrus/floral.

Puligny Montrachet is the greatest commune for chardonnay on earth, according to noted author Clive Coates. Taste a splash and see for yourself. Match with chicken, crab, fish, lamb, pork, salmon and veal according to the producer.

Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne "Les Setilles" 2001
Price $16.99
Rating 89
"Here, we are in the Cote d'Or, home of the most expensive wines from Burgundy. The Leflaive family has owned vines from 1717," says Bohmrich, MW. "Les Setilles (SE-tee) is a place name, not a vineyard. The wine sees partial barrel fermentation. There are delicate bits of peach, mineral, toast, and it is very clean and fresh."

Though a lighter wine, the length of complexity is long. This white wine is an important value from a region known for expensive wines. This wine was tasted at the Dallas Central Market. Pair this delightful white with white meats, sushi, scallops, salmon, salads, quiche, pork and Asian/spicy according to the producer.

Hugel "Gentil" Alsace 2001
Price $13
Rating 89
"An unusual wine because it is a blend from a region that normally bottles 100% individual variatals. Gentile was a historic term for a blend. The five noble grapes are in the glass, including muscat, the forgotten one," says Bohmrich, MW. "The 2001 is more marked by the riesling grape in the blend. They change year to year. By the nose, one might mistakenly expect this wine to be sweet."

Soft aromas of dried flowers and dried fruits, then flavors of white fruits, pear, mineral, green apple andbracing lemon/citrus. Match this wine with sushi, soups, salads, pork, fish and especially with spicy Asian cuisine.

Paul Jaboulet "Parallele 45" Cotes du Rhone 2000
Price $9
Rating 89
This wine is "named after the location of some of the vineyards along the 45th parrallel, where the Midi begins," says Bohmrich, MW. "This is an easy drinking wine that has personality, appealing to sophisticated drinkers as well as novices."

Dark, soft fruit aromas, then flavors of rich ripe plum, red fruit and a touch of coccoa. Pair this wine with veal, turkey, red meat, pork, pizza, pasta in meat sauce, lamb, grilled vegetables, grilled meats, duck aaand hard cheeses.

Melini Chianti Classico "Isassi" DOCG 1999
Price $15
Rating 89
"A rather traditional and conservative producer, definately not part of Tuscany's new wave," says Bohmrich, MW. "Match this wine to a veal scalloppini with a porchinni mushroom sauce."

Aromas of dark fruit and a hint of licqourish, spiced red cherry, perhaps, then flavors of crisp dark red fruit, layers of mint, earth and mushroom. Match this wine with hard cheese, BBQ, grilled vegetables pasta in meat sauce, salmon, veal and pizza.

Feudo Monaci Primitivo, Puglia IGT 2001
Price $9
Rating 88
"Because of the warmth and richness of this wine, I would match it to hard, dry cow's milk cheese," says Bohmrich, MW.

Blackberry color and aromas, and rich fruit flavors that are "not heavy handed, The natural acidity helps keep the wine from being heavy," observes Bohmrich. Serve this wine with veal, turkey, red meat, pizza, pasta in meat sauce, chicken and cold antipasti.

Feudo Monaci Salice Salentino DOC 2000
Price $8.99
Rating 88
"Flavors like a baked mincemeat pie with clove. You can taste the baked element from the sunshine in the region." says Bohmrich, MW.

This is a blend primarily built from Negroamaro with a little Malvasia Nera for the grape blend. "Great with pepperroni pizza or a bacon cheese burger," suggests Bohmrich.

Broquel Chardonnay, Argentina 2001
Price $15.99
Rating 87
Earthy aromas of apple and pear, then spicy flavors of white fruit. Very assertive and forward. "This reminds me of an Australian chardonnay, which is quite a generalization. No lack of fruit in this wine. Yes there is new oak influence," observes Bohmrich, MW. "Very ripe peach and mango."

Serve this white with white meats, scallops, fish, chicken, BBQ and harder cheeses.

Broquet Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentina 2000
Price $15.99
Rating 90
"Many people would argue that red is the strong suit of Argentina. This wine could improve with a little bottle age," contends Bohmrich, MW. Deep, ponderous, dusty flavors of complex dark fruits and influence from the earth. Very toasty and ripe in the nose.

Serve this red wine with roasted meats, red meats in general, beef, lamb and softer cheeses.

Brouquel Malbec, Argentina 2000
Price $15.99
Rating 89
"Why does malbec work so well in Argentina, as opposed to being merely a blending grape in France?" asks Bohmrich, MW. "When grown where there is enough sun, versus the cooler, rain impacted France, there is an unbelievable color and concentration. Blackberry aromas, and easy to love, especilaly with a rare steak."

Rich fruit, black pepper and a bit of vanilla within this powerful red wine. Serve this wine with roasted meats, red meats, grilled vegetables, both soft and hard cheeses as well as spicy, grilled meats. .

Pol Roger Brut Rose, Champagne 1995
Price $83
Rating 94
Aromas of cooked apple and firm limestone, then flavors of bracing citrus, marmalade, complex yeast, brioche dough, all through the long length.

Pol Roger is one of the few luxury Champagne firms that is still family owned, established in Epernay in 1849. About this Champagne; If it was good enough for Winston Chirchill, then it is good enough for us.

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© Darryl Beeson


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