Havens Wine Cellars Albarino, Napa 2002
Price $24
Rating 89
Havens Wine Cellars' goal is to make wines that work with food. The crispness in this white wine is strident. "There are two interpretations of fruit to compliment different food experiences. The refreshing floral aromas and exotic fruit refine raw oysters, sushi and enliven other seafoods," says wine grower Michael Havens. "These qualities also make this wine a quintessential match for tapas, especially when they feature a degree of saltiness or piquant sauce."

In 1997, Havens arranged to plant some Albarino budwood from a famous estate in Spain's Galicia. The results are in the glass.

Ariel Cabernet Sauvignon, Califronia 2001
Price $12
Rating 88
Ariel can be defined as a light and graceful spirit of the air.

Just wait till you taste Ariel, the wine. Actually, a wine modified. A huge demand for red wine resulted from the famous CBS "60 Minutes" report on the French Paradox, revealing that a little red wine consumption resulted in good health, even with a higher fat diet. But what if alcohol is not for you? Ariel bottles classic wine from respected vineyards, only minus the alcohol.

They have roots in California's Central Coast, not that far from the famous Hearst Mansion. Ariel has mastered a cold-temperature process that retains many of the nuances of the wine before the unique process. This process, and sourcing of grapes, wins handsdown versus other lesser versions of no-alcohol wine.

"Yes. We make Ariel from some of the best premium grapes grown in California, including Cabernet from the Napa Valley and many other varietals from Sonoma, Paso Robles, Monterey and the Delta," says founder Jerry Lohr. He's not shy about entering this non-alcohol wine in important wine competitions. Then again this wine wins medals in those mainstream competitions.

"Rich in color and flavor, our 2000, and the soon to follow 2001 Ariel Cabernet Sauvignon are best with robust, classic red wine dishes. Containing relatively soft tannins, these wines are drinkable when young and may be served with lighter dishes," boasts Lohr, "and many have described our cabernets as being very close to fine cabernets with alcohol." You decide. Match this lighter, but structured, red wine beside roasted fowl with fresh herbs, an honest beefsteak, or a veal chop topped with Romano cheese. Mushrooms and other earthy flavors could work well. The price is around $12 per bottle, depending upon your location.

For more details, go to arielvineyards.com.

Chateau Potelle "Riviera Rose" Paso Robles, California 2002
Price $16
Rating 89
Chateau Potelle is a producer of luscious, concentrated red wines and crisp, well balanced whites, based in the high altitude Napa region of Mount Veeder.

"We used to have a house in Provence," says owner Marketta Fourmeaux, "and our signature wine for the warm months was a rose. First I made a rose here on Mount Veeder for our own consumption and enjoyment." This is a pink wine for a serious wine drinker. It is not sweet, but it is refreshing in Summer's heat.

For more details, visit www.chateaupotelle.com.

Martin & Weyrich’s Moscato Allegro, California 2002
Price $10
Rating 89
Martin & Weyrich’s Moscato Allegro is a Californian version of a classic Italian wine, Moscato d'Asti, a sweet kiss from a delicately effervescent vino.  Flavors of brilliant apricot nectar explode from this fresh and spicy  bottle.  Tropical floral and more fruit aromas abound throughout, with honeyed-orange blossoms and peaches at the finish.  Do we have your attention now?

Get over the fact that this wine is sweet.  Sweet wine has its place, and this bottle should be placed beside things like sophisticated liver pates and terrine, fresh fruit or the ubiquitous Texas fruit cake, just avoid sweet desserts.  Better yet, splash a little of this liquid gold on a bowl of diced melon and other fruit.  This stuff is sort of like MSG for fruit, accenting luscious apricot and floral finesse to what might have been merely a bowl of boring, under ripe fruit.  Bring this to your next covered-dish social event, maybe on the fourth of July, and you will rule.

The distinctive Moscato Allegro bottle is the traditional "Renna Punto" snazzily designed bottle used for the finest Moscato d’Asti, long and sleek with no shoulders.  Your non-wine drinking friends will want to claim the empty bottle because of the design.  That's fine.  That's just another reason to buy more Martin & Weyrich’s Moscato Allegro.