In the garden and in the vineyards the vines are still dormant and all pruning should be finished by now. I pruned the garden vines a few weeks back. Hacked might be a better word as there was no science in it. Snip went a bit of shiraz, then a few dry tendrils of pinot noir bit the dust, a touch of limb surgery on the cabernet, and it was done.

Our vines are mainly for decoration and shade as the silver eyes and blackbirds usually enjoy the few ripe grapes we get. I've never thought of making wine from them, though a healthy crop of shiraz a few years back ended up as a superb shiraz jelly. It's quite different for professional viticulturists, they need to keep a hawk-like watch on the health of their vines throughout the year.

Grapevines progress with the seasons. In the southern hemisphere's Spring, at the start of September, the buds will start to burst. Buds are those small furry green bumps, which start to emerge from last year's wood. From the buds will come shoots and on the shoots will grow the new leaves. In November, tiny grape flowers will appear on the young shoots and a couple of weeks later the flowers will set into grapes.

During December, the grapes will become larger, and as they ripen, the fruit sugar they contain will increase, while their acid levels will slowly decrease. Veraison, the change of colour, will occur in January, the grapes turning red or yellow, depending on variety.

With the hotter weather in February, the rate of ripening will accelerate and the grapes will start to mature. Over March, April and May the grape harvest, or vintage, takes place, the birds feed well and winemaking commences. May sees the vine leaves change into their Autumnal colours and they then start to fall. In June, the vines again become dormant. The cycle continues.

Wine book

The tiny paperback, Choosing Australian Wines - A Buyers' Guide, is just 11 by 14 cm and 133 pages in length. Age winewriter Jeni Port has crammed her mini-volume with concise information on wine styles, wine language and wine regions. She also offers a selection of tasting notes on better-known wine labels. An ideal pocket reference for the everyday wine buyer. Penguin Pocket Edition, RRP $AUD7.95.

Tatachilla Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2000
Lenswood, South Australia. Pale yellow, faint lime green. Aromatic floral and citrus bouquet. Well-weighted style of vigorous fruit and zesty acid, with a persistent finish. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2003. Price: around $AUD17.

Chateau L'Ermitage 1997
Costieres De Nimes, southern France. Ruby. A syrah (shiraz), mourvedre and grenache blend showing ripe, slightly developed fruit on the nose. Light, fruity, dry in the mouth, with a mix of firm astringency and acid at the finish. Savoury style, designed for the dinner table. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2005. Price: $AUD17.95.

Baileys 1920s Block Shiraz 1998
Glenrowan, Victoria. Dense crimson. Upfront berries, dusty oak, and alcohol (14 per cent ) on the nose. Robust and solid in the mouth, exhibits multi-layered ripe fruit. Big main course wine. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2008. Price: about $AUD25.

Orlando St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
Coonawarra, South Australia. Deep ruby. Blackcurrants and subdued, integrated French oak on the bouquet. Grippy tannins lend a chewy texture to the palate, the fruit is elegant, and the overall impression is one of balance. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2010. Price: around $AUD24.

Lindemans Celebration Spirit Tawny Port
Amber-orange. Shiraz and grenache blend. Official port of the Sydney Olympics, according to the label. Attractive aged nose of raisins, chocolate and spirit. Smooth, mellow and delicious with a nutty finish. Rating: silver. Cellar: ready to drink. Price: around $AUD25.

© Martin Field