Marketing wine to Generation X
Roz Howard and Jenny Stonier have just published their report “Marketing wine to Generation X”. The report, prepared under the auspices of the 2000-2001 NSW Wine Press Club Fellowship, focuses on marketing wine to those aged between 21 and 40 in the year 2001, that is, nearly 6 million Australians, some 30% of the population.

It is a fascinating analytical document and obviously a must-read for anyone involved in the wine market. The authors have kindly allowed me to quote a few excerpts from their conclusions and recommendations.

“Pricing should represent value for money. The Generation X customer seeks value but is prepared to pay for a quality product.

“Train young winemakers in the art of public speaking. Who better to communicate with Generation X than a Generation Xer?…

“The wine industry uses the 4 P’s of marketing: Product, Price, Place and Promotion but the image of the wine industry portrayed to some includes the 4 B’s: Big Eyebrows, Bulbous Nose, Bow Ties, and Bulging Belly. Promote responsible consumption and get ‘On side’ with women’s and health magazines that espouse zero alcohol consumption. Reinforce the message that wine plays an important role in a fit and healthy lifestyle.

“Do not patronise Generation X’ers”

Don’cha just love the “Four Bs”? Some male wine writers are even worse. Anyone spring to mind? For more information on Marketing Wine to Generation X contact Roz Howard.

White wine ageing myth
“Why is it that white wine doesn’t cellar well?” Students on my wine courses inevitably raise this question and it encompasses an enduring myth among wine drinkers.

The answer is that certain white wines age very well indeed – better than reds in some cases. In Australia the guaranteed cellarers are riesling and semillon. I’ve tried South Australian rieslings dating back to the 1930s and Hunter Valley semillons from the 1950s, both styles age gracefully - still showing fruit and relative freshness after years in the bottle. High acid, (low pH) can make these wines a tad unapproachable in their infancy but the acid will mellow to the palate eventually and it acts as a wonderful preservative of colour and youthful zest in the wines’ formative years.

Chenin blanc from the Loire keeps well for decades and I’ve had lovely old Chablis and White Burgundy over the years. But Australian chardonnays seem to age prematurely. Given that chardonnay has only been around in this country in significant quantity since around 1975 that’s perhaps hardly surprising. Similarly, my feeling is that Oz and NZ sauvignon blanc is best for early drinking.

Both vintage and non-vintage Champagne age nicely (due not least of all to the carbon dioxide content I’m advised) although the fashion is not to cellar them.

My standard reply to the students’ question is to suggest an experiment: to randomly purchase a mixed dozen or two of semillons from the Hunter Valley in New South Wales and rieslings from the Clare or Eden valleys in South Australia at say, under $15-20 the bottle and leave them for 5 or 10 or 20 years. My confident prediction, based on experience, is that these random purchases will age better than a random selection of any Australian reds at similar price points.

There are qualifications of course, you have to have the time, some sort of cellar and a wine budget. And, you have to enjoy drinking semillon and riesling.

Wine etiquette
North-East Noel asks “Martin when I’m at a function and someone offers to top up my half empty champagne flute should I hold the glass upright or tilt it for the pourer?”

Well Noel, that’s an age-old puzzler. Snotty wine waiters would expect you to hold the glass vertically and pour from a height – thus taking ages to create lots of foam and quickly lose the fizz in the glass. My expert advice is to hold the glass at an angle and pour with the bottleneck close to the glass – as you would a beer. This way is speedy, non-messy and retains the bubbles in the bubbly.

Bon of Carlton asks, “You food and wine writers are paid [not very much. Ed.] to eat and drink the best food and wine for a living. So what do you do when you have a night off?”

I don’t know about other freelunch journalists Bon, but my idea of a work-free evening is to go to a good restaurant and eat and drink well. The difference, and the pleasure, is that I can do so without taking notes or thinking too much about what goes down the throat. Oh, yeah, another difference is that I pay for the privilege on my nights off.

Feedback
Peeved of Balmoral has copied us a letter he sent to a Sydney restaurant – here, somewhat edited for reasons of space and litigation, are a few highlights,

“Sir/Madam, I have been an occasional visitor since you first opened and have always found the food to be excellent…the staff friendly and attentive…After our visit for Mothers’ Day lunch however, any goodwill I felt towards your establishment has entirely dissipated … We can all appreciate that on particularly busy days of the year the service may be slow… however 45 minutes between entrees and main courses does seem excessive and when, despite politely asking 3 different waiters if they could open a bottle of white wine, we were studiously ignored until finally I went to the front desk to borrow a corkscrew to perform the honours myself... The chicken in mango sauce was dry, overcooked and barely warm by the time it reached our table. The risotto was also served at room temperature… the advertised salmon must have been on someone else’s plate as it certainly was not on mine…the scallops in white wine sauce had no apparent sauce at all and were instead accompanied by a giant, deep fried, crumbed mushroom [which] did nothing to enhance the natural delicacy of the scallops…[etc.] Sincerely…”

Thanks for sharing that Peeved, ever thought of becoming a restaurant critic?

Tasted recently
Cascade First Harvest Ale 2002 KKKKK - Cellar to 2003 - $20 the six-pack. (If you can find any.)

“The Grange of beers” said the headlines on release of this super-premium, top-fermented ale from the Fosters group. Well, apparently a lot of effort went into the production of only 2000 cartons. Ingredients included fresh hand-stripped hops, new season barley malt, fresh cultured ale yeast and so forth. What’s it like? Mid-amber with ruddy hints. Aromatic hops, toned down malt and a citric edge on the nose. Soft and full in the mouth (5.5% alcohol). Slight sweetness at first leading to refreshing mild bitterness at the finish. Quite delicious.

Bollini Pinot Grigio Trentino 2000 KKK - Cellar to 2004 – around $15.

Light gold/green. Attractively sweet and fruity floral bouquet. Fruitiness continues generously to the palate, finishing soft with distinct grapiness and hints of dried apples.

Yalumba Barossa Chardonnay 2001 KKK - Cellar to 2004 – around $10.
Pale straw. Fragrant stone fruits, hint of citrus and French oak on the bouquet. Medium–weight palate of ripe apricots, lightly charred wood, slight residual sugar, warming alcohol (13.5%) and more citrus at the finish.

D’Arry’s Original Shiraz Grenache 2000 KKKK– Cellar to 2010 – around $14.
McLaren Vale. Medium crimson. Pungent, youthful and fruity aromas – hint of aniseed. Smooth-textured light tannins. A good mouthful of mature fruit reminiscent of liqueured (14.5% alcohol) blackberries, supported by understated oak. Pleasant main course wine.

Tatachilla 1901 Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 - KKKK around $40.
McLaren Vale and Padthaway. 1901 refers to the original cellar opened in that year. Deep ruby, edge of purple. Inky, Ribena nose. Powerful style with concentrated blackcurrants and nicely blended fruit and wood tannins. Long, moreish aftertaste. A special occasion wine – a meal in itself.

Clover Hill Tasmania 1998 KKKK Cellar to 2006

Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. Light gold-green, medium lively bead. Aromatic, floral, fruity and rising bread dough nose. Full and fresh in the mouth with restrained yeast lees, chardonnay aspects and Granny Smith apple acid leading to a firm finish. Lovely on its own and would match lighter main courses. Around $30.

Petaluma Riesling 2001 KKK Cellar to 2008

Pale, edge of green. Delicate lime bouquet. Soft at the front of the palate, filling out to mature fruit flavours and leading to a dryish finish with zingy acid. Serve as an elegant aperitif or with light entrées. Around $20.

South Australian Wine Country Guide
Just received in the mailbox is “South Australian Secrets: A glove box guide to South Australia’s wine country”. A handy, well-produced 180 page Readers Digest-sized booklet with maps and full of concise information on SA wine regions, touring and individual wineries. Best of all, it’s free – apply for a copy via Southaustralia.com.

Quote
CONNOISSEUR, n. A specialist who knows everything about something and nothing about anything else. Ambrose Bierce (1842 - 1914), The Devil's Dictionary.

Drink wine because you are happy – and never because you are miserable. G.K. Chesterton

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© Martin Field