Summer is just about upon us and a young (in liver anyway) boozer's fancy turns to thoughts of drinking cool bubbly under a hot sun. The season couldn't come at a better time for over-stocked champagne and sparkling wine manufacturers, for it seems that sales increases of 15 per cent plus, anticipated for the 2000 New Year pseudo-millennium, did not materialise. More like two per cent.

This could explain why retail shelves are still awash with sparklers and why prices have remained stable over the last year. But you can't feel sorry for the Champenoise, those most responsible for making champagne the most hyped wine in an already hype-laden industry.

The bubbly marketeers long ago transformed the famous advertising dictum "You don't sell the steak you sell the sizzle." into "You don't sell the champagne, you sell the glitter." After all, take away all the glamour and what have you got? Dry white wine containing dissolved carbon dioxide, that's what.

Just look at the typical imagery, the expensive and cheesy ads associated with champagne. "Sophisticated" vacuum brains dressed in tuxedos and evening gowns partying at casinos. Grand Prix winners immaturely ejaculating magnums of excess over models and half-cut petrolheads. Rubicund racehorse owners slurping foam from gold cups - while their whipped, sweating geldings foam at the mouth. (He pauses, takes a breath, wipes the brow, pours himself another flute of Bolli to wash down some Prozac, and continues...)

And the packaging: painted bottles, tiny bottles, giant bottles, gold and silver foil, the works. You could be forgiven for wondering whether, as in the cosmetic industry, the packaging often costs more than the contents.

But don't get me wrong, there is no doubt that top quality bubbly is costly to make, and that well-made fizz is a delightful drink - if you can afford it. And if you can afford it here are some tips. Don't ruin expensive bubbly by overchilling. Either take your bottle out of the fridge about half an hour before serving, or, if taken straight from the cellar, simply place the bottle in an ice bucket with ice and water for about 25 minutes.

If bottom shelf bubbles are more suitable to your budget, remember that nothing improves Chateau El Cheapo sparklers like a thorough chilling and a splash of flavouring. Try the following, place a few thin slices of canned or fresh mango in a glass and top up with bubbly. Make up each flute with one third of orange or mango juice and two thirds bubbly, or add a dessertspoonful of cassis, or of green Chartreuse to each glass. Or, for a so-called Black Velvet, mix half and half with Coopers or Guinness Stout.

Tastings

Taittinger Non-vintage Reserve Brut

Reims, France. Pinot noir 60 per cent, chardonnay 40 per cent. Pale gold, small and busy bead. Aromatic, rising bread nose. Delicate flavours at the front expanding into fuller weight and medium dryness at the back of the palate. Finish is firm and lip-smacking. Dry enough for aperitif, substantial enough for light main courses. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2005. Price about $AUD55. Web: www.taittinger.com.

Seppelt Sparkling Shiraz 1995

Barossa Valley and Padthaway, South Australia. Clear, deepish ruby. Sweetish and fruity nose. Almost over-ripened grape style, high in alcohol, 14 per cent. Plummy in the mouth and seems to have a touch more sweetness than previous vintages, I prefer it a touch drier. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2003. Price: about $AUD15. Web: www.seppelt.com.au

Four Sisters Shiraz 1998

Various Australian regions. Medium red. Fresh with dusty oak and faint licorice on the nose. Soft, very easy drinking red. Well constructed commercial style with plenty of fruit for the drink-now market. Rating: bronze. Cellar: to 2003. Price: about $AUD11.

© Martin Field