The trickle of bubbly designed to cash in on the "millennium" craze has already turned into a flood, with liquor shops rapidly stocking up on specially bottled fizz carrying tags such as Y2K, Y2M, Cuvee 2000, Millennium Brut and similar. (Readers may recall my prediction about this Y2K hype from January.)

And not only are these puffed up products exploitative but they are also offensive to the eye, with ostentatious label designs featuring unoriginal themes such as balloons, streamers, stars, sparklers and fireworks. Naive consumers will of course have to pay more for bottles bearing millennium connotations as prices will surge inevitably to subsidise the cost of associated marketing campaigns.

All of this when mathematicians concede that the new millennium, when calculated from the Christian calendar, will not commence until 1 January 2001. Hindus, Jews, Muslims and others with different calendars will most likely observe all the fuss with amusement, if not bewilderment. And the Year 2000 beat up will include an Australian angle, a white wine, First Light Chardonnay 2000, scheduled for production on 1 January 2000. The wine will be made by so-called "flying winemaker" Dr Richard Smart, using grapes from that little-known but undoubtedly high quality hot climate vineyard area of Bourke, situated in outback New South Wales. The good doctor hopes to sell the wine for $500 the bottle.

First Light may be of interest to speculators but I won't be in the queue on New Year's Eve.

Sobering news

Survey results released this month by the National Drug and Alcohol Research Centre indicate that at least one million Australians are alcoholics. That is, more than five per cent of the total population is physically and/or psychologically dependent on alcohol. A strong argument indeed for re-examination of current campaigns and educational programs concerning the dangers of alcohol and the benefits of moderate consumption.

Tastings

Carlyle Riesling 1995 Grapes from Wahgunyah in north-eastern Victoria have produced a wine generous in bouquet and relatively low (11 per cent) in alcohol. After four years of bottle age the nose is honeyed, showing ripe apples and lemon. The palate is fresh and mouth-filling finishing with refreshing, zesty citrus. Rating: 87/100. Cellar: to 2008. Price: about $14.

Ripe White 1998 This chardonnay from Orange in New South Wales presents fruity and well-ripened melon-like varietal on the nose. Generous and uncomplicated sweet fruit on the palate is supported by quite noticeable acidity. An easy drinking now white for the light lunch. Rating: 84/100. Cellar: to 2003. Price: about $14.

Peter Lehmann Black Queen Sparkling Shiraz 1994 Deep dark red with a vigorous bead. The nose is rich and reminiscent of blackberry cordial. Four and a half years of yeast lees contact has produced a faint but pleasing yeast character. Ripeness continues in the mouth with intense berry flavours and a hint of sweet oak. The finish is delicious and persistent. Available only from cellar door, phone (08) 8563 2500 or via www.peterlehmannwines.com.au. Rating: 90/100. Cellar: to 2010. Price: $35.

David Traeger Shiraz 1997 Goulburn Valley shiraz with power and pepper on the bouquet. The palate is big, warm and spicy, while the high sweetish alcohol (14.5 per cent) is nicely balanced by drying, assertive tannins at the finish. A substantial red to be consumed with solid main course food. Rating: 89/100. Cellar: to 2008. Price: about $26.

© Martin Field