Popping up all over Melbourne are wine shops dedicated
solely to the sale of unbranded wines. These wines used to
be known as ‘cleanskins’ in the trade as the bottles
were unlabelled and usually cheaper than their branded siblings.
(Australian wine law now demands that all bottles have some
sort of label with basic information, such as the seller
or producer name and address, alcohol content etc.)
These new outlets disdain the use of the term cleanskin
as it carries with it the downmarket implications of ‘el
cheapo’ ‘no frills’ plonk. They prefer terms
such as ‘premium unlabelled’ and so forth. Companies
that make cleanskins still insist on remaining anonymous,
no doubt because they don’t wish to be associated with
no-name vino.
Where do cleanskins come from? I suspect that in the old
days wine companies used the cleanskin market to offload
unmovable stock, branded wines that went slightly wrong in
the making, redundant labels that were no longer deemed marketable,
vat ends and occasionally dregs unfit for wine casks.
Nowadays, in addition to the above, I imagine that the explosion
in cleanskin sales is simply a way of selling off excess
wine resulting from the current wine glut. And, no doubt,
the liquidation of stock from companies that have gone or
are about to go bankrupt.
Based on my recent tastings the quality of cleanskins has
improved greatly – but prices have also increased proportionately.
While there are plenty of cleanskins for under ten dollars,
many sell for $15 plus and there are not a few in the twenties.
What I don’t understand is why someone would pay that
amount of money for wines from an unknown source when across
the same price range there are ever-increasing numbers of
discounted, proven quality, labelled wines available. I guess
it must be the search for a bargain - the hope that a cleanskin
which sells for $18 is really the equivalent of a branded
$28 wine.
PS If you want to know which company made a particular cleanskin
look at the cork – some will be branded. Also, try asking
the floor staff, the boss might be sworn to secrecy but the
sales staff probably won’t give a damn.
In the heat of the cellar
Over the last few weeks we’ve been roasting here in Melbourne in unusually
high summer temperatures: often in the mid-30s and once as high as 44.1C. The
unpleasantness further complicated by a constant haze of smoke from innumerable
bushfires (not bloody wildfires!) raging all over the place. I know what you’re
thinking, ‘Hardly wine drinking weather is it?’
Well, I insist on drinking wine daily, in any climate, and
a few record–breaking hot days aren’t going to
stop me. White wine’s not a problem – I just drink
it a touch chillier than usual, straight from the fridge
and placed in an ice bucket to keep it cool.
There’s something about red wine on a hot day though.
If you drink it at ambient temperature it seems to boil your
brains and you are prone to fall over frequently at inappropriate
moments and wake up with a super nova type headache. The
answer is to ration the red intake somewhat and, (don’t
tell the red wine police), cool the wine before drinking.
Yep, put the bottle of red in the fridge for 20 or 30 minutes
before opening or use an ice bucket. If the wine is not too
grand you can even bung an ice cube or two in each glass.
If the wine becomes too cold (unlikely when it’s 35
degrees outside) cup the glass in your sweaty hands to warm
it up a tad.
Wein Meisters
Most of us have heard of that elite group, the Masters of Wine – its members
are entitled to put MW after their names. But I have only just come across
the following expressions, Australasian Wine Master (AWM), American Wine Master
(AWM) and International Wine Master (IWM).
According to the site, Centre for International Wine Studies
one can “become a University recognised Certified Wine
Advisor at any of the five levels leading to the qualifications
of Australasian Wine Master (AWM), or American Wine Master
(AWM) and, ultimately, an International Wine Master (IWM).”
For aspiring IWMs the CIWS FAQS page gives the cost of an
IWM study package at $10,000, plus any accommodation costs.
Cambodian Tastings
Our correspondent, Astrid of Alphington, reports from Cambodia.
‘Taken from a wine list at a popular hotel in Siem
Reap (in northern Cambodia where Angkor Wat and the other
temples are):
‘Chateau Carney 1995: Wrap with dominant garnet with
some reflections tiles. Melted tannins, savoury liquorice.
One closed finally.
‘Quancard Tradition: A big vintage of wines of tables.
A very cordial and thin nose where the scents of pine grove
coat the thin fruit. In the mouth this wine proves to be
delicate and subtle with a beautiful aromatic final.
‘Cellier de Bordes ‘98: A selection amongst the
best fermented rosy Bordeaux wine. The dress splendid is
elegantly avoided of a pink colour.
‘Chateau Jalousie Beaulieu ‘96: Beautiful wine
of beautiful making, a beautiful glare to the tone garnets.
Well developed bouquet with notes of brown and underwood.’
Tastings
Silver Billet Merlot 2001 1 litre Tetrapak – Cellar: ‘Best before
12 September 2003’. Around $7. 15.5/20
Murray Valley region. Mid-red with a slight russet edge. Sweetish fruit, soft,
jammy style. Ideal for BBQs or picnics. Good value commercial style.
McWilliams Hanwood Estate Chardonnay 2002. Cellar to 2005.
Around $9. 16.5/20.
Mainly Riverina fruit blended with a smidgin of Yarra Valley,
Coonawarra and Hilltops. Pale gold. Fresh ripe nose of dried
pears. Straightforward palate shows apricots and a trace
of sweet oak. Well-made, easy drinking, nicely-priced white.
Summit Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2002. Cellar to 2006. Around
$24. 17.2/20
Granite Belt, Queensland. Very pale, hint of green. Inviting
spicy nose of white peaches and vanillin oak. Palate rich
and generous with an abundance of fruit, alcohol warmth (14.2%)
and firm oak underpinning. Definitely a main course white.
Montalto Pinot Noir 2001. Cellar to 2006. Around $35. 17.5/20.
Mornington Peninsula. Light ruby, edge of violet. Cherries
and berries nose with quite definite oakiness. Mid-weighted
wine showing sweet raspberries, soft tannins, wood and a
firm, crisp acid finish.
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. Cellar to
2008. Around $16. 18/20.
Coonawarra, Robe and McLaren Vale. Crimson, hint of purple.
Nose of blackcurrants and obvious oak. Clean intense palate
with chewy tannins, forward acid and a dry solid finish.
May be a touch young to drink yet.
Ratings are based on the Australian show judging system.
Points are awarded (generously I hope) out of a possible
20. Maximum 3 points for appearance, 7 for bouquet and 10
for palate and finish. A wine that scores between 15.5 and
16.9 is a bronze medal winner. 17 to 18.4 gets a silver medal.
Gold goes to those wines rating between 18.5 and 20 points.
A rare trophy rating goes to an exceptionally good gold medal
winner.
Quote
The journey of a thousand alcoholics starts with a single drink. Ancient Chinese
saying. Translated by MF.
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