From July 1, 2001, smoking will be banned in Victorian restaurants - the day can't come soon enough for me. Nothing ruins the enjoyment of fine food and wine more than the slipstream of someone else's smoke invading the nostrils; not to mention the anticipation of contracting passive-smoking-induced lung cancer.

Ex-smokers, like me, are usually accused of being more anti-smoking than people who have never smoked. A bit like ex-Catholics (I'm one of those too), who are often vehemently opposed to religion. Well, I do have friends who are smokers, some that are Catholics and some that are both, and I still let them into the house. But if they want to smoke and/or pray, they have to go down the backyard to do so.

The appreciation of good dining is inevitably diminished in the presence of tobacco smoke or other alien odours. Accordingly, I sympathise with the good councillors of Halifax, Nova Scotia, who have not only banned smoking but also the use of strong scents and cosmetics in public places.

News of that seemingly quirky law reminded me of a winemaker's lunch I attended at an upmarket restaurant a couple of years back. The host proudly put his $80.00 shiraz up against the best shiraz-based wines that Australia and the rest of the world could produce. I was sitting next to his wife - she knew her wine but was doused in what seemed like a gallon of Chanel Number 5. Consequently, all the wines smelled and tasted of perfume - I could have throttled her.

Sure, restaurants are meant to provide areas for non-smokers, but in my experience few of them ever inform patrons that a choice exists, and anyway, smoke is no respecter of arbitrary and imaginary lines drawn across restaurant floors.

Some of Melbourne's top restaurateurs are now whingeing to the government that that the new policy is inconsistent, as hotels will not be subject to the same stringent, non-smoking regulations as are restaurants. They argue, not very convincingly, that diners who smoke will desert restaurants and rush instead to smoky hotel dining rooms, wherein to indulge their discerning palates and lungs. Hard to imagine. However, there is light on the polluted horizon, a few of our smarter restaurant proprietors have already made their premises smoke free. May they prosper.

Tastings

Fern Hill Estate Semillon 1998
McLaren Vale, South Australia. Developed yellow. Hay, citrus and toast characters on the nose. Dryish style, mid-weighted, just a hint of oak behind nicely acidic fruit. Use as an aperitif. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2006. Price: about $AUD8.

Goundrey Unwooded Chardonnay 1999
Mount Barker, Western Australia. Pale, edge of green. Lemon notes lift the bouquet. Soft and full palate of ripe varietal fruit. Mild lemon acidity supports and lengthens the finish. Easy drinking, best with entrée course. Rating: bronze. Cellar: to 2003. Price: about $AUD10.

Straws Lane Pinot Noir 1995
Macedon, Victoria. Pale, slightly developed red. Fresh, with strawberry-like nose. Light and quite dry in the mouth with pronounced acidity. A touch more ripe fruit would have lifted it a notch. Good palate-cleanser or serve with entrée. Rating: bronze. Cellar: to 2003. Price: about $AUD8.

Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 1998
Grampians, Victoria. Crimson, faint purple hue. Generous berries in a lifted spice and pepper bouquet. Medium but persistent tannic astringency. Lots of grapes in this red, a full, warm palate with bite but without aggression. Fine component balance augurs well for longevity. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2010. Price: about $AUD46.

Dobbe Cognac - Free Style Selection
Strange labels on this range: "R n' Blues", "Dixie Band", "The Count" and "The Duke, but, happily, the corny names don't detract from the quality. Mid-amber. Youthful and alcohol-driven aromatics (40 per cent), with a hint of vanillan oak. Light, sweet and elegant on the palate, clean and nutty on the finish. Rating: silver. Price: about $AUD50.00 the 750ml bottle.

© Martin Field