|
Wine writers are a breed apart. They drink
the best (and worst ) of wines, eat at the hautest of haute cuisineries and are
on the best of terms with winemakers, but can they write?
Language about wine can range from the
sublime to the pseudo. Unfortunately, it usually tends towards the latter. Assuming
that wine writers' audiences are relatively untutored in the wine sciences, it
would be reasonable to expect columns written in clear, jargon-less English. But
what is served up is all too often both impenetrable and precious. With that in
mind and by way of example, I have compiled a few snippets of what I consider
to be nobly-rotten waffle. Readers may notice that modesty forbids the inclusion
of my own humble writings.
Firstly, from Auberon Waugh's column in
The Spectator, a couple of examples of his penchant for the bizarre comparison:
"The Jackson Estate Marlborough Dry may seem more of a kindergarten taste - nurses
will love it...almost like a sauvignon at the extreme red gooseberry end of the
sauvignon spectrum - grapefruit? mandarin? kiwi fruit?..." And: "...Enate's Crianza...tempranillo
and cabernet sauvignon...Nobody could possibly mistake this for anything but a
Spanish wine, with its musky smell, masses of fruit and curly black hair, but
we found it delicious..."
The Australian Financial Review's Mr Tim
White is clearly a lover of the cryptic crossword: "Shaw & Smith Reserve Chardonnay...Intense
pineapple rind and radish, smells slaty and tight...a dab of textural mlf..."
Malolactic fermentation we presume. His second entry is also a bit on the whiffy
side: "Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Earthy, slightly feral/animal (Brett!!),
cedar stocky, deep blackcurrants & blackberries..." I assume that (Tim!!)
is referring to brettanomyces, a yeast that gives wine a mousy odour. Finally
Tim offers. "Grosset Polish Hill. Quite plump on the nose, packed with lemon/lime
zest, apricot kernel and a hint of plasticine..." and, "Mitchell Watervale Riesling...Impeccably
balanced P should age well." I still haven't worked out what P is - pH perhaps?
And lastly, my favourite offering of psychobabble,
from the tasting notes of Bodegas Felix Callejo: "Reserva Tinto Callejo 1989...
is a complex, suggestive baroque wine. The organoleptic sensations act in polyphonic
counterpoint with diverse melodic lines... the palate is...persistent...with a
retronasal resonance with good old aging. Fit to remain in the bottle." The moral
we derive from the above tasting samples is that when writing about wine we should
all watch our mlfs and Bretts!!
© Martin Field
|