Mention Greek wine to a typical Australian wine drinker and the likely response is sure to range from "Never tasted any." to "Yeah, don't they make that retsina stuff? Reckon it tastes a bit like turpentine." And Greek wine rarely finds its way into wine columns or fashionable food and drink magazines. Yet Greece has an ancient and noble history of wine making and in the late 20th century is again producing wines worthy of note.

Wine was made in Greece before 2000 BC and the works of Homer and other Greek writers of the pre-Christian era are littered with references to wine. In those days tastes were different: wine was taken mixed with water or seawater and amphorae, the clay vessels used to store wine, were coated inside with pine resin as a sealant, leading no doubt to the continuing popularity in Greece of pine-tasting retsina.

Ancient Greeks spread the culture of the vine across the Mediterranean, not least of all to the area we now know as Italy. Italy adopted winemaking so successfully that the Greeks named the region Oenotria - "the land of the (trained or staked) vine." But in the many centuries of invasion, occupation and political turmoil following this glorious beginning, Greek wine lost the fame it had once enjoyed in the days of antiquity.

Currently Greece ranks 13th in the world in terms of volume of wine produced and while much of that wine is destined for local consumption increasing amounts have become available for export. The move to modernisation of the Greek wine industry over the last few decades has seen the introduction of an appellation system of quality control, considerable investment in winemaking technology and the updating of viticultural practice. This trend, if sustained, can only lead to significant improvements in the quality of Greek wine entering the world market. See the Greek wine site at www.greekwine.gr.

Tastings

Makedonikos Topikos Oinos 1997
From the Greece's Macedonian region comes this white wine made from the varietals roditis and zoumiatis. In its grapey bouquet one can detect a faint muscat-like undertone while the easy-drinking palate is fresh and medium dry. An attractive white, ideal on its own or for lunch time drinking. Rating: 85/100. Cellar: not necessary but will keep for a few years. Price: about AUD$9.

Cava Tsantalis 1993
A blend of xynomavro (translates as acid-black) and cabernet sauvignon. An everyday dry red, light in colour and exhibiting a fruity nose. Clean and youthful on the palate it shows tangy acidity and a firm, slightly earthy finish. A style designed to accompany light main course food. Rating: 83/100. Cellar to 2002. Price: about AUD$11.

Alexander Xynomavro Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium red in colour with hints of purple. On the nose this blend of 70 per cent xynomavro and 30 per cent cabernet shows abundant savory fruit edged with traces of almond. The palate is well-structured and dryish with aspects of developed fruit, mild tannic astringency and forward acid. Would go well with roast chicken. Rating: 85/100. Cellar: to 2004. Price: about AUD$8.

Rapsani 1991

Rapsani, made from the red varietals, xynomavro, krasato and stavroto, is grown on the slopes of Mount Olympus. It carries Greece's topmost appellation: "origin of high quality." The wine is aromatic with noticeable wood, blackcurrant and mocha. Grippy in the mouth it shows more of the berries along with a developed gamey character. Try with spit-roast lamb. Rating: 87/100. Cellar: to 2005. Price: about AUD$21.

© Martin Field