Jimmy Watson's Wine Bar and Restaurant in Melbourne is one of Australia's best-known gastrozones. Watson's executive chef, Steve Szabo, has a particular interest in matching wine with food and also, in creating recipes, in collaboration with this writer, that include wine as a significant ingredient. Here are a few of Steve's favourites.

Szabo's Champagne Oysters Sabayon

Ingredients: one or two dozen oysters on the half shell; 200ml champagne; half an onion; two large egg yolks; quarter of a small hot chili; olive oil; coriander (spice not leaf) and nutmeg.Sautee the finely chopped onion in two teaspoons of olive oil until transparent, add the chopped chili and a pinch each of coriander and nutmeg, continue cooking for one minute. Add the champagne and allow mixture to cool. Then add the two lightly beaten egg yolks and gently heat in a pre-warmed double boiler, whisking until the sabayon foams and thickens slightly. Place the oysters in a heatproof dish and warm them in a pre-heated oven (200C) for two minutes. Drizzle the warm sabayon over the oysters. Serve with your favourite champagne.

Steve Szabo's Vinaigrette

In a food processor, lightly mix together: one finely chopped shallot, half a clove of garlic crushed with a little salt, half a teaspoon of grain mustard, one tablespoon of champagne vinegar, one teaspoon of honey, two tablespoons of boiling water, freshly ground white pepper to taste and a pinch of sea salt flakes. While continuing to mix, slowly trickle in: two tablespoons of walnut oil and two tablespoons of grapeseed oil (or substitute four tablespoons of light olive oil) and one tablespoon of boiling water. Steve says the vinaigrette will keep well in the fridge and to try it with a quail salad. For a wine accompaniment I recommend a Sauvignon Blanc at the herbaceous end of the scale - a Cloudy Bay, for instance.

Szabo's Aged Rump steak in a Sweet Muscat and Ginger Marinade

To serve six people you will need six 200 gram pieces of well-trimmed aged rump (or venison) and the following marinade: 150 ml of vegetable oil, 120 ml of muscat (or tawny port), one finely chopped onion, two crushed cloves garlic, two teaspoons finely sliced root ginger, six crushed peppercorns and three bay leaves.
The method: saute onion, garlic and ginger in a teaspoon of oil until the onion is transparent, then add peppercorns, bay leaves, muscat and remaining oil. To infuse the flavours heat until the muscat just bubbles up through the oil and keep on gentle heat for two minutes. When cool pour the marinade over the rump and place in a sealed container in the refrigerator to sweeten and tenderise for three days.
To cook the rump medium-rare, first sear pieces in a very hot fry pan then place in pre-heated, very hot oven (250 C), for five to six minutes. After removing meat from oven let it rest for two to three minutes then serve on a bed of creamy mashed potato surrounded by a variety of garden vegetables. Chef Szabo advises that the marinade can also be used to baste the meat or as a sauce and that it can be recycled for future use by storing in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three weeks. He recommends a premium Yarra Valley pinot noir to accompany.

Noble Sticky Pudding a la Szabo:

A dish that combines sticky date pudding with a botrytised white wine-based sauce. You will need: 200 gms pitted dates, 200 ml boiled water, 150 gms unsalted butter, 200 gms demerara (or dark brown) sugar, 200 gms self-raising flour, two large eggs and a half teaspoon of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda). For the sauce: one cup of chilled thickened cream, one third of a cup of "sticky", ie. botrytised, white wine - Chateau d'Yquem will do - a teaspoon of caster sugar and half a vanilla bean.
Method: Roughly chop dates, dissolve bicarbonate of soda in boiled water and soak dates in this for five minutes. Cream sugar and softened butter together then beat in eggs one at a time. Blend in the dates and water, then fold in the flour. Place mixture in greased 25 cm baking dish (the pudding will double in height) cook in pre-heated (180 C) oven for 35 minutes or until firm but moist in the centre. Remove from oven and leave for at least 15 minutes before serving.
For the sauce: slice vanilla bean lengthways, scrape centre with sharp knife, combine scrapings with chilled cream, sugar, and noble wine and beat briskly to thick pouring consistency. Drizzle noble sauce over pudding portions. I recommend the De Bortoli Noble One 1994 to accompany.

© Martin Field