April 1 sees the release of yet another wine guide from Australia's most prolific wine writer, James Halliday. The Pocket Guide to Wines of Australia is in effect a scaled down version of Halliday's Australia and New Zealand Wine Companion. True to the title the slim volume will fit handily into a jacket pocket. Each winery in the A-Z regional listing receives a star rating and a one paragraph potted history and description of winemakers and styles. Also included are simple maps, regional profiles and winery contact details. HarperCollins, RRP $14.95. Giveaway: We have three copies of the Guide to give away to readers. To enter simply send your name and address to Pocket Guide, Melbourne Independent Newspapers, 18 Drummond Street, Carlton 3053.

Wine FAQs and MLF

FAQ (frequently asked question) of the week comes from a consumer who asks if his bottle of Victorian shiraz cabernet sauvignon was corked. Seems the wine smelled fine but tasted odd and was distinctly bubbly in appearance. In my opinion this problem is most likely to have been caused by secondary, non-yeast, malolactic fermentation (mlf) in the bottle rather than cork taint. Mlf occurs when the bug lactobacillus converts malic acid (harsh green fruit acids) to softer lactic acid (milk fermentation acid), mlf also causes general acidity to diminish somewhat. Alcohol is not produced in this fermentation but carbon dioxide is, and if this occurs in a closed bottle bubbles will result.

Mlf also contributes flavour components, including a compound known as diacetyl, which can give wine, especially white wine, a buttery flavour. Hence the description of wooded chardonnays which have undergone mlf as soft and "buttery". Diacetyls are also used to give cinema popcorn an artificial butter flavour - which Seinfeld, trivia freaks may recall, prefers to real butter.

Tastings

Blue Pyrenees Estate Reserve Brut
Very pale, fine bead. Inviting bouquet of biscuity yeast. Very clean on the palate, showing abundant flavours of balanced ripened fruit, yeast lees and zesty acid. Delightful drinking with or without food. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2004. Price: about $20.

Penfolds Kalimna Shiraz Bin 28 1997

Mid-crimson. The nose promises much, loads of inviting big fruit and American oak. The palate delivers with substantial blackberry and vanilla characters constructed on fine, not too chewy tannins. Good long finish. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2006. Price: about $15.

© Martin Field