The very first wine article I wrote for The Melbourne Times, back in 1978, was about the 1971 and 1972 vintages of Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - the so-called "Wynns Black Label". In that piece I disagreed with the opinions of a few international wine judges - whose palates were probably better tuned then than mine will ever be.

I was reminded of those days after tasting the just-released 1998 black label cabernet, and its distinguished siblings: the '99 shiraz, the '98 cabernet, shiraz and merlot blend, the '00 chardonnay and the '00 riesling.

The '98 cabernet reminded me of the quality of the Wynns wines of some 30 years ago and I reflected on the consistency of a wine company that could produce a virtually unbroken line of classic reds, at almost bargain prices.

Ian Hickinbotham, Wynns first winemaker back in 1952, was guest of honour at the Wynns launch and he regaled guests with a few heartfelt tales of those days. He related that the forgotten heroes of early Coonawarra winemaking were the immigrant Italian grape pickers. "They were lovely people, straight off the boat. Some were peasants, some artisans and some professionals. They had very little English."

He told how he first put a team of these new Australians to work, their task was to turn the ratcheted screw on a basket grape press. "As the ratchet turned they spontaneously burst into song. It made the hairs on my neck rise. Coonawarra would have died without them." Ian also paid tribute to his then boss, the late David Wynn, a man he credits with putting Wynns and Coonawarra on the Australian and world wine map. David was, said Ian, "A dreamer and a visionary."

Along with the latest releases we tasted a selection of 15 older black labels, ranging from the first vintage, 1954, through to the 1996. The '54, considering its age, was in good condition, showing a light, aged tawny hue, a nose of spice and mocha and a sweet and elegant palate. Other highlights included the jam tarty 1967, the fragrantly ripe 1986, and the big 1991, redolent of chocolate and berries.

Winemaker Sue Hodder said of the 1998 cabernet, "Black label is a wine we're proud of, and the 1998 vintage is undoubtedly one of the greatest ever."

Tastings

Cloudy Bay Pelorus Non Vintage

Marlborough, New Zealand. Pale gold, persistent medium-sized bead. Attractive biscuity/yeasty nose. Palate is full and creamy with aspects of dried apples and pears and hints of hazelnuts. The finish is crisp without being overly acidic. Quite delicious. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2005. Price: about $24. Web: www.cloudybay.co.nz.

Rosemount Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2000

South Australia, New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia. Pale yellow/green. Fresh, fruity and floral nose. Medium dry in the mouth with ripe, lychee-like flavours and a softly acid finish. For easy early drinking. Rating: bronze. Cellar: to 2003. Price: about $AUD12. Web: www.rosemountestates.com.au.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Coonawarra, South Australia. Very dark, purple-edged. Generous sweet bouquet tinged with anise and mocha. Hints of blackcurrant overlay a dry and assertively tannic palate, the astringency suggesting extended cellar longevity. Will mellow into softer drinking in a couple of years. Rating: gold. Cellar: to 2010. Price: about $AUD20. Web: www.wynns.com.au.

Chestnut Grove Merlot 1997

Manjimup, Western Australia. Medium-hued red. Lifted fruit nose with a savoury side. Dryish, substantially weighted palate of sweet fruit with a smoky tang, the finish is persistent. Best with well-seasoned main courses. Rating: silver. Cellar: to 2006. Price: about $AUD22. Web: www.chestnutgrove.com.au.

Grant Burge 20 Year Old Tawny

Barossa Valley, South Australia. Ruddy, light amber. Grenache, mourvedre and shiraz fruit. Pleasant, aged tawny style nose, sweet and woody. Smooth mouthfeel of well-integrated spirit finishing with nutty notes. Rating: silver. Cellar: ready to drink. Price: $AUD28. Web: www.grantburgewines.com.au.

© Martin Field