Amarone - Notes and Tastings

There are very few wines that evoke as many emotional reactions as the Italian Amarone. Made in Veneto, the same north-eastern Italian area that produces Valpolicella, Amarone is a blend of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella grapes. What makes Amarone unusual is that after the harvest the grapes are placed on mats and set in warm rooms to dry for five or six months until they are converted to ultra sweet raisins. Sometimes the grapes are even attacked by botrytis, the noble mold from which the world's great sweet wines are made. Despite that, once made into wine those hyper-sweet grapes yield a wine that by its very character has a distinctly bitter character, and bitterness is the most controversial of all the basic tastes, in some recalling the atavistic reaction of primitive man who associated that taste with poison, in others calling to mind the more unpleasant moments of childhood. To enjoy bitterness, a developed taste indeed, one must overcome the basic pleasures granted by sweetness and Amarone, the very meaning of which in Italian is "the big bitter" is anything but sweet.

Despite or perhaps because of its bitterness and high alcoholic content (sometimes as high as 17%)
Amarone has a devoted following, the best of these wines cellaring nicely for 10 -15 or even more years. Sadly, because even the wine world has to bow to the god of consumerism, increasingly "modern" Amarone wines are now being made. Although these are wines that are less bitter, less full bodied and have less of the oxidized flavors that many say give Amarone its greatest charms, they will appeal to a broader base of wine drinkers. Unfortunately, some of these are little more than fancified and expensive versions of Valpolicella. As is said, however, chacun a son gout (each to his or her taste), and who, after all is a wine critic to say what should or should not be on the shelves of fine and not-so-fine wine stores the world over.

At any rate, following are tasting notes on the Amarone wines of seven wineries. Nine of the Boscaini wines were opened at a tasting hosted at Tel Aviv's Derekh HaYain wine shop on 15 February 2001 and the others were tasted at various times. The Boscaini wines of 1978, 1981, 1983, 1986, 1988, 1990, 1991, 1995 and 1996 are available in Israel only at Derekh ha Yain.

Boscaini

Boscaini, Amarone Ca de Loi Classico, 1983: If you want to find a model for the perfect Amarone this might well serve your purposes. Full bodied, with exquisite aromas of sour cherries, chocolate, roasted coffee, raisins, old leather and even a hint of perspiration (not to be taken at all as an insult), this is a great Amarone. Considering the age of the wine, it is not surprising that it is fully drinkable now. What is surprising is that the wine has another 4 - 5 years of good life to look forward to. Score 95+.
(Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Paolo Boscaini, Amarone Reserve Ca'de Lei, 1998: A traditional Amarone with mushroom and plenty of leather aromas overlaying flavors of dried cherries, plums and vanilla. Just bitter enough to bite, but with appealing layers of licorice and tea on the finish, the wine is delicious for drinking now but will last at least 3 - 4 years longer. Don't try to match this one with food! If you do want something to accompany it, make it a well aged and very, very firm Parmesan cheese. Score 92. (Tasted 25 Jan 2001)

Boscaini, Amarone, Ca de Loi Classico, 1990: Lighter and fresher than most of the Amarone wines from this family owned winery, this is a wine that seems to have been designed to appeal to American and not Italian palates. That is not all bad, however, for overall this is a complex and powerful wine with smooth and rich bitterness overlaying dried fruits and just a hint of anise. The wine needs time to develop. Hold until 2002 - 2003 before starting to drink it. Score 92. (Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Boscaini, Amarone, Ca de Loi Classico, 1988: With smoky and meaty aromas and a purple color that is so deep that it seems to draw you in, this powerful but not overpowering wine shows a comfortable restrained elegance. Perfumed with flowery raisins and biscuits, and with hints of licorice and bitter chocolate, and with flavors that linger on and on, a wine that cannot help but please. Score 91+.
(Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Boscaini, Amarone Classico, 1991: That this medium bodied wine is almost aggressively bitter will make it much admired by those who enjoy old world Amarone. Deep in color, with molasses, dried fruits and licorice in its flavors and aromas, the wine fills the mouth beautifully. An ideal companion to a fine Cuban cigar. Fully ready for drinking. Score 90+. (Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Boscaini, Amarone Classico, 1991: That this medium bodied wine is almost aggressively bitter will make it much admired by those who enjoy old world Amarone. Deep in color, with molasses, dried fruits and licorice in its flavors and aromas, the wine fills the mouth beautifully. An ideal companion to a fine Cuban cigar. Fully ready for drinking. Score 90+. (Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Boscaini ,Amarone Ca de Loi Classico, 1986: When first poured the almost medicinal aromas of the wine tend to put one off, but after it opens in the glass for fifteen or twenty minutes that sensation passes and is replaced by aromas of plums, raisins, anise and licorice as well as an enchanting feeling that this wine must be compared to a fine Port. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years. Score 90+.
(Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Paolo Boscaini, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Marano, 1996: Deep royal purple, and in an almost "new-world style", this lighter and less aggressive than usual Amarone, will be especially well received by those who find more traditional wines of this type a bit too bitter for their palates. Attractive plum, stewed cherry and light bitter almond flavors and smooth tannins make the wine drinkable now or in the next 4 - 5 years. Score 89. (Re-tasted 15 Feb 2001)

Boscaini, Amarone Ca de Loi Classico, 1978: A lighter but still classic Amarone, with plums, prunes, and molasses in its aromas when first poured. Alas, after not too long in the glass, the wine begins to fade, rapidly showing its age and losing its fruits and freshness. Despite that, its opening pleasures are great and the bottle is definitely worth trying. Score 88. (Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Boscaini, Amarone, Vigneti di Marane Classico, 1998: As bright in color as it is on the palate, and with lots of pepper overlaying its fruity and bitter nature, this is a clean and delicious although not great wine, fully ready for drinking now. Score 87. (Tasted 16 Feb 2001).

Tedeschi

Tedeschi, Amarone La Fabriseria, 1995: Strong and powerful, this delicious, complex and concentrated wine has an intense bouquet of molasses, prunes, biscuits and dried fruits. Aged in oak for two years,and deep ruby red in color, the wine has a massive structure, loads of firm tannins, and a lightly bitter finish that typifies the best Amarone wines. Ideal with heavy meat dishes and cheeses. Only 2,000 bottles of this superb wine were made and those are worth hunting for. So rich and concentrated that that it calls to mind some of the very best Port wines. Score 95. (Tasted 5 Jan 99; retasted on 16 Feb 2001 with consistent notes)

Tedeschi, Amarone, La Fabriseria, 1997: Those who love complex, deep Amarone wines will adore this one! Full bodied, powerful and concentrated but still elegant and subtle, this extraordinary wine shows excellent balance between tannins, fruits and the appealing bitterness that typifies the very best Amarone wines. As in the past, do not be surprised as you sip this wine if it calls to mind an excellent Port. Score 94. (Tasted 21 Mar 2001)

Tedeschi, Amaroni Monte Olmi, Capitel, 1993: Aged in oak for more than three years, the complex wine has flavors of biscuits, molasses and dried fruits. Since my last tasting (4 Dec 1998) the wine has lost its hard edges and now makes for especially smooth drinking, especially when matched with a well aged Parmigiano cheese. Score 90. (Retasted 16 Feb 2001).

Tedeschi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 1995: As is traditional with Amarone wines, this
one was made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Negrara and Dindarella grapes that were harvested
in early October and then left to dry until almost the end of January before being made into wine.
Deep but less massive and powerful than Tedeschi's La Fabriseria (reviewed above) and with bitter cherries and honey in its flavors and aromas, this still powerful, intensely ruby-red colored wine
also has nice feelings of spices and dried fruits in its flavors. The wine is ready to drink now but
will store nicely for at least 5 more years. Score 90. (Tasted 5 Jan 99)

Masi

Masi, Amarone Classico della Valpolicella, 1996: Not a great wine, but one that will make a remarkably positive impression because of its smooth, rich and complex flavors and aromas.As one has come to expect from earlier versions of this complex and intriguing wine, you will find plenty of chocolate, leather, plums and dried fruit aromas and flavors here, all coming together very nicely indeed Score 91. (Tasted 4 Sept 2000)

Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella, Campolongo di Torbe, 1995: A medium to full bodied Amarone, with just the right levels of bitterness and delicious spicy, chocolate and curry flavors and aromas of leather and damp grass. Flavors that linger on and on add to the charms of the wine. Drink now or in the next 5 - 6 years. Score 91+. (Tasted 21 Mar 2001)

Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 1993: A classic Amarone, smooth, rich and with a marvellous array of flavors and aromas that included dried fruits, chocolate, leather and plums. Complex and intriguing, with flavors of red berries that linger nicely on the palate and just enough bitterness to fascinate. Drink now if you must, but the wine will reach its peak in only another five to six years. Score 91. (Retasted 16 Feb 2001).

Allegrini

Allegrini, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 1995: Intense and full bodied, opening beautifully as it develops in the bottle, the wine impresses me even more than at tasting about 18 months ago.
Intense and full bodied, the wine has delicious flavors and aromas of coffee, cherries and spices all on a background of earthy but not at all overpowering bitterness. Drink now but do not hesitate to hold the wine for 6 - 8 years longer. Score 89. (Retasted 16 Feb 2001).

Serego Alighieri

Serego Alighieri, Vai Amaron, Amarone Classico, 1995: There is a good chance that the name of Amarone is taken from this vineyard. Planted since the 14th century, this is a remarkably rich and complex wine. Full bodied, with the illusion of sugar added because of its high natural glycerin content and lovely overlays of bitterness that typify the best modern or traditional Amarone wines, this is a wine that can be approached now but will continue to develop nicely in the bottle for another 5 - 8 years. Score 90+. (Tasted 4 Sept 2000)

Tomassi

Tomassi, Amarone, Campo Ca'Florian, 1995: This full bodied Amarone meets all of the expectations that one has come to have of these wines. With flavors and aromas of prunes, berry compote and leather come together nicely with those of deep bittersweet, dark chocolate and pine sap to produce a wine that lingers very nicely on the palate. Difficult to match with food, but very good bet as an after dinner beverage. Score 88. (Tasted 13 May 2000)

Tomassi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 1995: Flavors and aromas of prunes, black cherries and ripe berries come together with the underlying bitterness that gives Amarone its special touch. The wine is faulted, however, for even though it is rich when first poured it seems to lose both its bouquet and its flavors rather rapidly in the glass. Drink now. Score 81. (Tasted 13 May 2000)

Corte Giara

Corte Giara, Amarone della Valpolicella, 1997: Part of a popularly priced series made by the same people who make the wines of Allegrini, this is an unusual wine because it calls to mind anything but the deep, sometimes even thick and invariably charmingly bitter Amarone wines of Veneto. Despite this misnomer, a pleasant medium bodied wine, with lots of plums and herbal overtones in its flavors and aromas. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 23 Feb 2001)

© Daniel Rogov