There is probably no place to visit in all of Turkey that is noisier and more vulgar than the southern, Mediterranean based city and area of Antalya. In fact, after only two days on my most recent visit, I was so depressed by the too-too obvious internalization of the city and surrounding towns that I made my way a bar, my sole purpose being to get drunk enough to forget that one of my editors had requested that I pass ten days here to write a food and travel.

My mood was not helped at all when I took my place at the bar and ordered a glass of Scotch whisky, for even though the bottle carried the label of a prestigious single-malt, the ingredients were obviously some vile imitation, perhaps locally brewed, perhaps imported from Taiwan. The man sitting next to me had ordered the same whisky and when we started to discuss our plight he confessed to me, with a rather embarrassed smile, that he was native to the region. I was prevented from attacking him (only verbally, rest assured) when he told me that he too had come to despise those of his countrymen who had "become whores in the name of the holy tourist dollar".

As we continued downing the bad whiskey (and it seemed to get worse with every sip), my newfound companion in misery told me that it was actually possible to escape this vulgarity. I asked how and he began to brighten up - suggesting that if I had a jeep it would be possible to explore the "real Antalya". My ears perked up, and I suggested that renting a jeep would not be out of the question. He in turn suggested that for a few of US$150 he would accompany me on a six day exploration of the area. I decided to better his offer - and told him that if we could spend the entire six days without seeing either a vulgar hotel or a single busload of German, Israeli or English tourists, I would pay him $250 and all of his expenses. More than a bit tipsy now on the by now absolutely abysmal whisky, we were forging a friendship.

The next day we and our rented jeep set out. And what I found was Antalya as it existed half a century ago. I could not have been more pleased, for in addition to enjoying extensive and often breathtaking archaeological sites and the delightfully clean, turquoise colored Mediterranean, we met some marvelous people, dined with gusto and passed a week that could not have been more pleasing.
What the heck - once away from the beaten tourist path, I even enjoyed myself so much that on returning I was able to explore some of the seaside towns with more of an open mind.

When it comes to dining, keep in mind that the country-folk of Antalya enjoy food so much they claim that Turkish food, along with French and Chinese cuisine, is one of the great cuisines of the world. At the basis of the regional cooking are some of the most flavorful and largest vegetables and fruits will find anywhere (eating even a single large, juicy, fragrant yellow peach at an Antalyan village market will ruin you forever when you get back home), an abundance of fish and meats, nearly all of which will be beautifully herbed and cooked on the grill.

Largely because tourism has become the major source of income in the region, many of the hotels and restaurants now serve what I think of as "tourist foods", dishes that are bland, boring and often even inedible. That does not mean that good food cannot be found in the cities and villages of the area. It does, however, mean that the best foods will be found either in or near the shuks of the cities, or in the kinds of small village restaurants or taverns to which the locals go, knowing that they will receive excellent food at extraordinarily reasonable prices.

In the old shuk of the city of Antalya, for example, I found three "kebab houses", places so tiny that I had to stand shoulder-to-shoulder at the counter with quite a few other hungry people. I did not mind the crowds, however, before the food was delightful. At first glance, many of the kebabs and shishliks that are offered seem similar to those one will find throughout the Mediterranean and the Near East . There are enormous differences, however. First of all, all of the beef, veal, lamb and mutton in such places is marinated for at least 20 hours before being cooked over hot charcoals, the meat is more tender and more flavorful than nearly anything to be found in neighboring countries. Second, as I learned from talking to the owners of each of these establishments, every cook in the region has his or her own version of marinade, which makes the meat taste different from place to place. All of the marinades contain olive oil, vinegar, garlic and pepper but they may also contain from five to twenty different herbs and spices. Local grill-men guard their spice and herb recipes zealously! Two of the places I visited also sold whole grilled legs and shoulders of lamb, marvelous feasts (especially when torn apart with the fingers during eating) for a hungry group of four or five.

During the next seventy-two hours I also discovered that Antalya province also features hundreds of place that sell "donner-kebab", the Turkish version of shawarma. I learned many years ago that not all of the meat and other foods offered in these places is fresh, and that it is perfectly acceptable to ask for a small piece of meat as a sample before you order your sandwich. My own rule in checking such establishments is simple enough and over the course of many years has never let me down: If the meat smells good it will taste good. If, on the other hand, the meat smells the least bit sour, smile politely, say thank you and move on quickly unless you want to spend the next three days in a very uncomfortable position.

As I talked to people throughout the province it became clear that regardless of whether they dine on the kinds of dishes prepared in the palaces of the Sultans or on the country-style dishes of the peasants, food is an extremely important part of life to the people of Antalya. Not far from the village of Kemer, in which, sadly enough, there is not a single decent restaurant, one of the locals told me that many Antalyans are so proud of their palates that they claim that after a single taste they can tell the age of a fish, in which part of the country a lamb grazed, or from which village a tomato has come. So rich is the Antalyan kitchen that it is possible to identify a hundred varieties of meatballs and at least three hundred different kinds of stuffed vegetables.

When it came to finding real restaurants, however ,I was on the verge of despair until Arif Aldemir, my very pleasant and competent guide, took pity on me when he saw me eyeing the buffet lunchof the hotel in which I was staying. Arif told me that he had he rarely seen a man so sad, so he decided to take me to the restaurant known as "Arzum Manti Evi", in the small city of Alanya. Aysen and Erol Mertdogan are the bosses here and the 14 members of their family, ranging in age from 14 - 78 years old did just about everything to make us comfortable. Only when we had removed our shoes were we seated in an area where the walls and floors are lined with carpets, and in we were seated on cushions alongside small, low tables.

Throughout our meal a musician strummed sometimes heartbreaking and sometimes joyful tunes on his antique sitar; one member of the family or another was always nearby checking to see if there was enough to drink on the table (fresh orange juice and raki are the favored beverages here... try them mixed together for a treat); and there was even a belly dancer, one so talented that when the music began the locals walking by all come in to take part in the good humor and talent of her art.

I quickly realized that there was to be no menu, for the dishes that one receives at any given times are simply those that have been prepared that day. Our own meal started off with two kinds of eggplant salad and these were followed by an extraordinarily flavorful bean and tomato soup that had been gently seasoned with mint, garlic, red pepper and just the hint of lemon juice. This in turn was followed by the dish known as "bulgur pilavi", in which burghul that had been boiled in chicken stock had been mixed together with a generous amount of fried onions, tomatoes and hot peppers. What came next was an absolute delight, for the specialty of the house is called "mendef", the Turkish equivalent of gnocchi. In this dish, remarkably tasty bits of seasoned dough are boiled and then mixed together with tiny bits of lamb and equally small bits of fried onion and garlic. Over all of this is spooned a yoghurt sauce so flavorful that it must be sinful. Our final course, a country style rice pudding rich with cinnamon and raisins was the perfect way to close out our meal. and all in all our dinner lasted four hours. The bill, including extra tips for the musicians and dancer and an enormous number of bottles of raki, came to about $15.00 per person.

The other real find I made was on the western side of the province. "Ulupinar Cinar Restaurant" is a place so unpretentious tha most tourists avoid it. This is a mistake, because this charming place is situated in a tree lined shady spot alongside a rapidly running river and missing the food and special atmosphere here is truly a sin. One of the waiters will tell you what foods are recommended, but considering that no-one here speaks anything but Turkish, your best bet is just to nod enthusiastically and take whatever they suggest. Our own meal opened with a meze of eight different salads. The eggplant in garlicky yogurt sauce, the whole cloves of garlic (which are meant to be eaten whole, simultaneously with a bite of bread and a spoonful of parsley), sweet and hot peppers in coarse country-style olive oil, a mixed salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and chopped parsley and mint, a carrot salad with yoghurt, and the cauliflower salad were all excellent. The star of the meze, however was the cheese known as "columb", which is made by stuffing fresh goats' cheese into the stomach of a calf and then hanging it in the air to age for several days. Served with walnuts this cheese is a marvel whether you eat it plain or spread on bread.

For our main courses we had trout that had been caught in the nearby stream, seasoned and breaded lightly and fried; young wild quails that are to be seen everywhere, even on the road
adjoining the restaurant as if they are waiting to be eaten; lamb chops and kebabs that had been cooked over open charcoals; a stew made of bite sized cubes of lamb that had been cooked together with white beans, tomatoes and onions; and a generous dish of the mutton meat balls known as "kadin budu kofte" - women's thighs. The ideal drink at such places is "Efes" - the local beer, which, especially when served ice cold (cooling is done in the nearby river), is as good as any you will taste anyplace. Based on an extensive meal such as our own and all the beer you want to drink your bill will not come to much more than $8 per person.

To Visit and To Avoid in Antalya

Kiris World Hotel: Not far from the village of Kemer, this remarkably attractive and comfortable resort hotel features an exquisite view of the mountains, an unspoiled view and very large, nicely furnished rooms. Definitely a good base for sophisticated travelers who want to either relax completely or to explore the region. The hotel can be contacted directly by mail at P.B. Box 99, 07980 Kemer-Antalya, Turkey.

Turk Evi Hotel: Mermerli Sok. 2. 07100 Kaleici, Antalya, Turkey. Telephone 31-48659 in the city of Antalya. This small but charming hotel consists of two beautifully restored Ottoman mansions with an exquisite view of the port area of ancient Antalya. Ideally situated in the old city, the hotel has a beautiful bar and a small, attractive restaurant. A good place for exploring the city and the nearby region.

Seven Seas Resort and Casino: Side („ƒ‰'), Antalya, Turkey. Somewhere in design between the Taj Mahal and Disneyland, this is a hotel that will appeal especially to those who enjoy loudness, extravagance and non-stop activity. The very popular casino is as close to Las Vegas as you will find anywhere, the water park is never quiet, and most of the tourists seem to enjoy nothing more than telling lies about how much they won at the casino. Even though the air conditioning works badly and the food leaves a great deal to be desired, many seem to adore the place. I was not one of them.

Arzum Manti Evi: Ataturk Cadessi Number 10, in the city of Alanya. In addition to charming ambiance and lovely social setting, this unpretentious restaurant offers food that is definitely worth trying. Best to go with a large group so that the music and the belly dancing can be most appreciated. Prices reasonable.

Ulupinar Cinar Restaurant: On the main from the village of Kemer between the ancient cities of Phaselis and Olympos. Located along a rapidly moving river and tucked into the trees of a tiny mountain village, this is one of the most genuine and delightful restaurants you will find in the area. Prices are ridiculously reasonable.

The recipes for a small collection of traditional Turkish dishes can be found by clicking here.

To read a few of my impressions about Turkish wine, click here

To read about visiting and dining in Istanbul, click here

© Daniel Rogov