Many people accuse me of having an "incurably European soul". They are probably right but I am not so incurably European that I will not gladly acknowledge that some of the most exciting dining in the world is taking place today on the North American continent. One of the cities I especially enjoy visiting is Atlanta, Georgia, a modern but charming city that is perhaps the major economic hub of the southeastern United States. Following is a list of what I consider the 10 best restaurants in the city.

The Abbey: 163 Ponce de Leon Avenue, N.E. Telephone (404) 876-8532. 08Ì American food with a strong French-Mediterranean accent. Try the chicken breasts stuffed with goat cheese, tomatoes and basil or the trout filled with herbed bread and wrapped in bacon. Luxurious and expensive.

Anthony's: 3109 Piedmont Road, N.E. Telephone (404) 262-7379. This elegant restaurant is located in a beautifully restored pre-Civil War plantation house that was originally built in 1797. Don't miss the lobsters stuffed with shrimps and the grilled quail with cornbread stuffing. Expensive.

Buckhead Diner: 3073 Piedmont Road. Telephone (404) 262-3336. A modern American original. Try the lobster gazpacho, the Caesar salad with spicy fried oysters, or the sandwich of smoked goose breast and gorgonzola cheese. Moderate prices.

The Fish Market. 3393 Peachtree Road (Lenox Square). Telephone (404) 262-3165. If lobster, oysters and coquilles St. Jacques are your passion, this is definitely the place to visit. Prices are moderate to high.

Frogs - A Bistro. 68 W. Paces Ferry Road. Telephone (404) 261-2299. This casual but upbeat bar and lounge features live music, French bistro cooking and a fine wine list. Specialties include frogs legs provencale; grilled shrimp and smoked chicken with gorgonzola cheese. Prices are reasonable.

Gianni's: 2355 Peachtree Road, N.E. Telephone (404)-261-8186. This intimate and sophisticated restaurant features authentic Italian dishes such as roast suckling pig with rosemary and thyme and delicate homemade pasta. Prices are moderate.

Indigo Coastal Grill. 1397 N. Highland Avenue. Telephone (404) 876-0676. This unpretentious but charming place offers lobster, corn and conch chowder; oyster fritters; mussels with shallots and scallops in a tequila-marjoram based sauce. Moderate prices.

Marra's Seafood Grill. 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road, NE. Telephone (404) 874-7347. There is nothing fancy about this large, informal seafood restaurant but the grilled lobsters, fresh tuna, Pacific salmon and aged steaks are all excellent. Prices are moderate.

The Patio by the River. 4199 Paces Ferry Road, N.W. Telephone (404) 432-2808. Some say that this may be the best restaurant in the United States. Specialties include herbed oysters served on squares of cornbread; crab Mornay; and grilled salmon with dill and shallot butter. Expensive.

La Tour. 3209 Paces Ferry Place. Telephone (404) 233-8833. Impeccable service and elegance on the grand scale describe the French Empire decor here. Specialties include seafood and corn chowder, stuffed chicken breast with champagne sauce, and crab cakes with three sauces (yellow pepper, red pepper and asparagus). Very expensive.

© Daniel Rogov