Even today it surprises many people, especially those who know Australia primarily from movies such as "Crocodile Dundee" to learn that wine and the culture of wine are important parts of Australian life. It surprises even more when people begin to learn just how excellent the best Australian wines can be. Today, with the wines of wineries such as Penfolds, Rosemount, Yarra Ridge, Yellowglen, Wolf Blass, Brokenwood, Chapel Hill, Grosset, Henschke, Reynell and Mount Mary appearing on the shelves of wine stores from Toronto to Hong Kong and from Tel Aviv to Helsinki, people are learning rapidly that Crocodile Dundee erred seriously in choosing beer (ideally straight from the bottle) over Australian wine.

In recent days (23 and 24 December 2001) I tasted or re-tasted 33 wines from recent vintages of the wines from Rosemount Estate. The first tasting, of eight of Rosemount's top wines, was held at Cordelia Restauant in Jaffa (a restaurant definitely on the way up and well worth visiting). Because that tasting was accompanied by food, my notes were casual ones only. The following day I sampled each of those wines and quite a few others, some for the first time, some for a second or third time in more formal circumstances in my own tasting room.

Shiraz/Syrah

Rosemount, Syrah, Balmoral, McLaren Vale, 1998: As is said "elegance on a grand scale"! After 24 months in American oak barrels, this full bodied, remarkably well structured wine opens in the glass to reveal complex fruit flavors and aromas of plums, black cherries and currants all complemented beautifully by just the right levels of pepper, licorice and chocolate. As it ages the wine promises to reveal increasing complexity and do not be surprised to see cigar tobacco and cedar wood flavors developing nicely. Cellar at least until 2003 and then look forward to a decade or more of fine drinking. Score 93+.

Rosemount, Syrah, Balmoral, McLaren Vale, 1997: Made from grapes harvested in 50 - 100 year old vineyards, and having spent two years in American oak barrels, this classic, elegant and intense Australian Syrah is absolutely packed with deep flavors and aromas of blueberry, plum, and black cherry fruits, all complemented nicely by black pepper, clove and other spices. Well balanced, with silky smooth tannins and overlays of licorice and tobacco that sneak in gently at the end, the wine is ready for drinking now but will cellar nicely for 8 - 10 more years. Score 92.

Rosemount, Shiraz, Show Reserve, McLaren Vale, 1998: Yet another elegant wine from Rosemount in 1998. Plenty of smoky, vanilla-laded wood here but those are balanced beautifully by black fruits, pepper, and herbal flavors and aromas. Delicious even now, but the wine will be at its best only between 2004 - 2010. Score 92+.

Rosemount, Shiraz, Show Reserve, McLaren Vale, 1997: Spicy and lively, this full bodied wine spent 2 years in new and old American barrels. Black cherries, plums, white pepper, and juniper berries are only a few of the flavors and aromas you will find in this delicious, smoky wine. Hold for another year or two and then drink until about 2010. Score 91+.

Rosemount, Shiraz, Estate, 2000: Crisp and clean, with good berry, cherry and spicy flavors and aromas, this tempting medium to full bodied wine shows good balance between smooth tannins, fruits and natural acidity. Drink now or in the next two - three years. Score 88.

Rosemount, Shiraz, South Eastern Australia, 1999: Unusual for Rosemount, for this is a country-style wine, with lots of fruits but just a bit of coarseness. At its best with dishes such as ossobuco and boeuf bourguignonne. Score 85+.

Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon

Rosemount, Mountain Blue, Mudgee, 1997: A blend of 85% Shiraz and 15% Cabernet Saugignon made from old vines, fermented separately, aged in new oak casks for almost two years and then blended just before bottling. Moderately tannic and just spicy enough and with appealing plum, wild berry and vanilla in its aromas and flavors, this wine tempts already but will be at its best only in another 5 - 7 years. Score 91+.

Rosemount, Shiraz-Cabernet, 2000: With appealing flavors of plums, black cherries and currants, this medium bodied wine is well balanced. Smooth tannins and a nice sense of liveliness make it eminently drinkable now or in the next year. Score 85.

Rosemount, Shiraz-Cabernet, South Eastern Australia, 1999: A successful medium- to full-bodied blend, this deep red wine has good balance between fruits, spices and smoky aromas and flavors. Moderately tannic and with good supporting acidity, the wine will be at its best if drunk now or in the next year or two. Score 86+.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Rosemount, Cabernet Sauvignon, Show Reserve, Coonawarra, 1998: One of Rosemount's consistently best wines, this one is even better than the 1997 version. Full bodied and packed with still firm tannins the wine promises to open beautifully as it develops. Even now look now for long lingering flavors of currants, stewed plums, mint and violets as the wine opens on the palate. As it continues to develop in the bottle anticipate black olive, tobacco and more marked mineral overtones. Drink now only if you must, for the wine will be at its best only between 2003 - 2012. Score 92.

Rosemount, Cabernet Sauvignon, Show Reserve, Coonawarra, 1997: If Australian Cabernets are your among your passions, don't miss this one! Full bodied, with firm but smooth tannins and just spicy enough flavors that develop beautifully on the palate, this complex and elegant wine cannot help but please. In addition to black currant and berry aromas and flavors look as well for fascinating hints of eycalyptus, black olives and violets. Drink now or in the next 10 years. Score 91+.

Rosemount, Cabernet Sauvignon, Orange Vineyard, 1998: Medium to full bodied and with already well-integrated smooth tannins, and aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries all with appealing hints of smoke, vanilla and herbs, this wine is drinking beautifully now but will cellar very well until 2004 - 2007. Score 90.

Rosemount, Cabernet Sauvignon, Orange Vineyard, 1997: Fully modern, medium- to full-bodied, with cedar wood, chocolate and hints of herbs in its flavors and aromas. With still firm tannins, this complex and delicious wine needs time to develop in the bottle. The wine should be at its best from 2003 - 2007. Score 90.

Rosemount, Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia, 1999: Deep purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, and with lots of berry and cherry flavors and aromas this is an appealing wine. Firm tannins and good balance ensure that the wine will live nicely for 4 - 5 years. Score 86.

Rosemount,, Cabernet Sauvignon, South Eastern Australia, 2000: Royal purple in color with appealing orange reflections as it is held to the light, this medium bodied and only moderately tannic wine offers a generous mouthful of currant, berry and black cherry flavors. Just enough feel of the oak and a pleasing level of smoothness. Score 86.

Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Petit Verdot

Rosemount, Traditional, 1998: A very tempting Bordeaux style proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot and Petit Verdot. Medium bodied, with plenty of smooth tannins set off by plum, cedar, tobacco and chocolate flavors, the wine is approachable now but will cellar nicely until 2004 - 2005. My suggestion, hold it for another year before starting to drink it. Score 90.

Rosemount, Traditional, 1997: Bordeaux in its style (80% Cabernet, 10% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot), this medium bodied, tannic wine has plenty of red fruits, dark plums and even now hints of tobacco, cedar wood and herbs that will develop as the wine continues to mature. Approachable now but better yet, hold another year or two until you start drinking it. Score 89.

Merlot

Rosemount, Merlot, Estate, 2000: A comfortable little Merlot, medium bodied, with almost unnoticeable tannins but with plenty of currant, black cherry and berry flavors. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 84.

Rosemount, Merlot, Estate, 1999: This fully internationalized Merlot will make for easy drinking for those who like their wines medium bodied, low in tannins and with plenty of blackcurrant and raspberry flavors. Drink now. Score 84.

Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre

Rosemount, GSM, 1998: As in the 1997 wine, even though this wine contains Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre grapes that are typical to France's Rhone Valley, this is a distinctly New World wine.
When first poured the wine shows a personality dominated by plums and herbal flavors and aromas, but as it opens one begins to feel gentle wild berry, black cherry and spices on the palate and on the nose. Drinking nicely now, the wine promises to cellar nicely for 3 - 4 years longer. Score 89.

Rosemount, GSM, 1997: Named after the traditional Rhone valley grapes from which it was made (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre), but distinctly Australian in style, this near-elegant wine offers an abundance of plum, raspberry and spice flavors and aromas. Well balanced, and with still firm but smooth tannins, the wine can be drunk now but should store nicely for at least 5 more years. Score 90.

Pinot Noir

Rosemount, Pinot Noir, South Eastern Australia, 1998: A simple little wine, with appealing cherry, berry and spice flavors but not enough backbone to make it really interesting. It may sound like heresy, but try it with grilled lobsters or shrimps, good pizza or pasta dishes. Drink now or in the near future. Score 84.

Grenache-Shiraz

Rosemount, Grenache-Shiraz, Australia, 2000: Somewhat light in body and flavor, one might consider this wine just a bit watery. Fresh fruit flavors, but not much in the way of depth or breadth. Score 84.

Rosemount, Grenache-Shiraz, Australia, 1999: This very nice little wine has an abundance of plum, berry and vanilla flavors and aromas (look as well for a hint of cedar wood). Medium-bodied and with moderate tannins, the wine is fully ready to drink now. Score 86.

Chardonnay

Rosemount, Chardonnay, Roxburgh, 1999: As always, full bodied and packed with oaky, smoky flavors and aromas. Despite that, a wine that opens in the glass to reveal deep, rich flavors that blend together to give the impression of elegance. Citrus, melon, pineapple and floral flavors and aromas open beautifully and then linger nicely on the palate. Approachable now but the wine will be at its best only between 2003 - 2006. Score 92. (Tasted 24 Dec 2001)

Rosemount, Chardonnay, Roxburgh, 1998: Full bodied and with a marked oaky, smoky and herbal character, this deep gold, almost orange wine opens slowly in the glass but when it does it reveals rich underlying floral, citrus and orange peel aromas. Drink now or until 2004 - 2005. Score 91. (Tasted 24 Dec 2001)

Rosemount, Chardonnay, Roxburgh, 1997: Fermented in new 225 liter oak barrels and allowed to undergo 100% malolactic fermentation on its lees, Rosemount's Roxburg Chardonnay has long been one of Australia's finest white wines. Perhaps not as great as the '93 and '95 versions, but elegant and with a distinct personality, this round, full bodied white has deep flavors and aromas of peaches, pineapples and pears, all with an appealing mineral-earthy overlay. At my most recent tasting the wine seemed to have gone into a dumb period but after 20 minutes in the glass regained all of its charms. Drink now or set aside for 3 - 4 years. Score 90. (Most recently tasted 23 Dec 2001, at which two bottles were corked and discarded).

Rosemount, Chardonnay, Orange Vineyard, 1999: Light golden straw in color, this medium bodied Chardonnay shows richness and elegance in its citrus and orange peel aromas and flavors. Thankfully not over-oaked, but with just enough hints of the wood in which it aged and good balancing acidity, the wine is drinking beautifully now and should continue to drink well until 2003 - 2004. Score 90.

Rosemount, Chardonnay, Diamond Label, 2000: A well made Chardonnay that will have definite mass-market appeal with its green apple, pineapple and peach aromas and flavors. Crisp dryness, plenty of acidity and light mineral overtones add to its drinking pleasure. Drink now. Score 85.

Rosemount, Chardonnay, Orange Vineyard, 1998: A white wine that surprises at first glance because even though it comes in a Bordeaux style bottle, it is more Californian than Australian or French in style. Not a drawback, however, because with lots of new French oak set off by plenty of acidity and aromas and flavors of citrus, peaches and green apples this delightful and almost elegant wine is ideally suited to chicken and veal dishes. Definitely worth trying. Drink now or in the next 2 - 3 years.
Score 89+.

Rosemount, Chardonnay, 1999: Not overly complex but very pleasing, this clean, fresh Chardonnay has appealing peach, pear and green apple aromas and flavors and just enough spice and mineral overtones. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85.

Semillon-Chardonnay

Rosemount, Semillon-Chardonnay, 2000: Australians seem to like combining these two grapes but as too often happens, this wine has lost the character of either varietal. With green apple, lemon and pomello flavors and aromas and plenty of acidity to keep it lively, this is a simple but nice white wine for everyday drinking. Score 84.

Rosemount, Semillon-Chardonnay, South Eastern Australia, 1999: A nice but not exciting little wine to accompany Mediterranean mezes, grilled or fried fish dishes. Light, fruity and fully ready to drink now. Don't set this one aside to age. Score 82.

© Daniel Rogov